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Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread

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Old 05-04-2019, 06:44 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe) or add 1.5mm carbon avid spacers



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 12-02-2016, 12:37 PM
  #4126  
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Originally Posted by seth556
Have you tried adjusting your ESC to smooth out the power?
the esc wasn't the limiting factor - the left index was
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Old 12-02-2016, 02:39 PM
  #4127  
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Originally Posted by lyons238
yeah, but my point was just that you don't need to run the slipper looser with a gear diff than a ball diff. you don't account for the ball diff to slip when setting the slipper. you set the ball diff so it's properly tight and smooth and so the ball diff will never slip and so you have proper traction.

with a gear diff you're not worried about the diff slipping so you simply set it for traction which never ends up looser than a slipper on a ball diff, if anything it would be the same or tighter. that's the point i was making but i digress doesn't really matter anyway. carry on.
Ah, I see what you're saying, and I don't disagree at all.

Conventional wisdom in my area leads to a slipper set too tight for a ball diff, which is why I worded things the way I did. Most people I've met have enough trouble setting proper diff tension let alone slipper tension. The bench set method that's become the standard here doesn't account for other stresses on the drive train and most people dont track set their slipper here anymore either. I find it best to word thing for the average Joe to be able to go and try to replicate on their own. Sorry if my original explanation felt misleading
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Old 12-02-2016, 02:42 PM
  #4128  
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Originally Posted by trinityracer12
Are there any other Wheels out there that work for the Xb2? front and rear?

Thanks.
BentKa Posted:
Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs if you dont want to grind your front

Front 365354 offset -0.75
rear 365359 offset +3.75
Its in a Wiki at the beginning of the forum, but it doesn't show up on some mobile devices
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Old 12-02-2016, 11:34 PM
  #4129  
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Should have mentioned. Get the avid or schelle slipper for 17.5 unless it's for an experienced driver that will run a lockout. Much lighter too

Originally Posted by dgrobe2112
Also don't you need the slipper eliminator for the 72 and 69 x-ray gears?
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Old 12-02-2016, 11:58 PM
  #4130  
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Originally Posted by lyons238
i prefer alum chassis indoor on clay with medium plastics. CF chassis can be good outdoors but to each their own i suppose.
I am curious why you prefer the aluminum chassis and med plastics over the cf chassis, when you get some time
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Old 12-03-2016, 03:36 AM
  #4131  
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Just curious will there be 17 dirt version coming out or should I just buy my son another 16 ????
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Old 12-03-2016, 08:40 AM
  #4132  
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Originally Posted by RedBMaster
I am curious why you prefer the aluminum chassis and med plastics over the cf chassis, when you get some time
I personally prefer the flex characteristics of an alum chassis and the heavier weight when running mod on med-high bite clay and carpet.

The medium plastics with the alum chassis work very well on clay and for carpet I put on graphite and alum.

I would only use the CF mostly on looser dirt or its excellent in stock class. Of coarse I'm sure it can be made to perform well so to each their own.
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Old 12-03-2016, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Ziggy65
Just curious will there be 17 dirt version coming out or should I just buy my son another 16 ????
There will be. Most likely around February if I had to guess.
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Old 12-03-2016, 08:25 PM
  #4134  
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For those running the Exotek slipper eliminator for the XB2 what spur gear have you found that works with it?
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Old 12-03-2016, 09:15 PM
  #4135  
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Originally Posted by blwaz23
For those running the Exotek slipper eliminator for the XB2 what spur gear have you found that works with it?
Either Kimbrough or Associated.
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Old 12-04-2016, 12:02 AM
  #4136  
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The exotek spur gear is very loud unless running a plastic slot gear pinion (which is my favorite combo if you're willing to run a plastic pinion) otherwise get the below. 72 and 75t (75t if you have a super tight track and need to gear down)...
Originally Posted by Pville Stig
Either Kimbrough or Associated.
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Old 12-04-2016, 09:08 AM
  #4137  
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Originally Posted by lyons238
I personally prefer the flex characteristics of an alum chassis and the heavier weight when running mod on med-high bite clay and carpet.

The medium plastics with the alum chassis work very well on clay and for carpet I put on graphite and alum.

I would only use the CF mostly on looser dirt or its excellent in stock class. Of coarse I'm sure it can be made to perform well so to each their own.
Cool, thanks!
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Old 12-05-2016, 01:09 PM
  #4138  
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Any of you fellas have an extra set of 0 slot steering extensions? I'm looking for a set to try out this weekend.
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Old 12-05-2016, 01:57 PM
  #4139  
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what steering parts are ya'll running on indoor clay tracks? the stock composite arms and plate?

i've tried both the stock composite and adding the aluminum steering plate but running the plastic arms. i feel the plastic arms are extremely stiff and durable - don't see the need to go alum there - i do like the way the alum steering plate feels more precise and it's def more durable. im just worried i may strip my servo eventually. what are your thoughts?
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Old 12-05-2016, 02:27 PM
  #4140  
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Anyone see the news about potential moves by some of the top drivers? Been hearing rumors about some moving to XRay in the U.S.........
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