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Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread

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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe) or add 1.5mm carbon avid spacers



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 11-02-2016, 01:59 AM
  #3991  
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Originally Posted by Pville Stig
The 3 gear is a vast improvement in cornering. You can power out of a corner earlier than before.
can someone please explain the physics behind it? It should theoretically be harder to lay the power down with MM3 than MM4 (that's why MM4 was the starting point for bespoke MM cars, to help with rear traction vs. MM3). I can see MM3 helping off power to not lose the rear, though.

Really curious to see how it's gonna feel like... next time I can race it is in 3wks
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Old 11-02-2016, 04:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Slapjack
Found it... thanks. Next question is where can I get these parts (preferably in the US). Google search isn't turning up anything except the gearbox part no.
If you haven't found them yet... I ordered mine online from a shop called RC Madness. I live in NC, and the shop is in CT. They had 2 of each part left yesterday after I ordered.
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Old 11-02-2016, 05:00 AM
  #3993  
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Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars
saying that no one runs rear motor based on your local indoor track, or the big events, doesn't make it true

at my local HT track, the B5R has been dominant when they have minor/major events. prior to the B6D a local AE driver would use the B5R. Phoenix SRS drivers would come down with some of them too, dumping their mid motor cars. there are some posts in various threads, racers still requesting rear motor and talking how rear motor still dominates at their tracks due to conditions that a 4 gear mid won't even over come

if you look at when the AE B6 series released, the dirt version was sold out very first. but in today's news mid laydowns steal the headlines due to carpet and unique dirt tracks that most imo never get to race on

i still own two DE XB2's and now have a B6D. i don't brand bash or want to start a A vs E fight. i have tried everything on my DE on what was a loose/low/med traction outdoor dirt track, 3 and 4 gear, springs from 4 manf's. did a lot of what Socket came up with at our track. my basic stock B6D was dialed per instructions.

i still hope xray goes thru with rear motor option, so i can try my DE's in the config i was hoping to use when i bought them
I agree with you i have xb2 DE also upgrade carbon chassis running with medium dirt track more worst than stock chassis. And purchaed b6d with laydown transmission to taste how compare with xb2 and wow b6d is way more better than xb2 so i sold xb2 never go back xb2 only i like the plastik parts ofx xray is top quality compare to b6d
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Old 11-02-2016, 05:42 AM
  #3994  
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Originally Posted by Yodah
If you haven't found them yet... I ordered mine online from a shop called RC Madness. I live in NC, and the shop is in CT. They had 2 of each part left yesterday after I ordered.
Thank you!
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Old 11-02-2016, 05:54 AM
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Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars
saying that no one runs rear motor based on your local indoor track, or the big events, doesn't make it true

at my local HT track, the B5R has been dominant when they have minor/major events. prior to the B6D a local AE driver would use the B5R. Phoenix SRS drivers would come down with some of them too, dumping their mid motor cars. there are some posts in various threads, racers still requesting rear motor and talking how rear motor still dominates at their tracks due to conditions that a 4 gear mid won't even over come

if you look at when the AE B6 series released, the dirt version was sold out very first. but in today's news mid laydowns steal the headlines due to carpet and unique dirt tracks that most imo never get to race on

i still own two DE XB2's and now have a B6D. i don't brand bash or want to start a A vs E fight. i have tried everything on my DE on what was a loose/low/med traction outdoor dirt track, 3 and 4 gear, springs from 4 manf's. did a lot of what Socket came up with at our track. my basic stock B6D was dialed per instructions.

i still hope xray goes thru with rear motor option, so i can try my DE's in the config i was hoping to use when i bought them
the vast majority of people on this forum and around my area wont touch a rear motor. it's just the way it is bro. sure in some places theres loose outdoor tracks, but those are the minority. since when do companies ever cater toward the minority? that's just bad business is what im saying, unless it's there only way to capitalize due to too high of competition or not enough resources internally to compete.
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Old 11-02-2016, 08:22 AM
  #3996  
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You must have had an aftermarket Carbon chassis and should specify that. The Xray carbon adds a lot of flex and traction. I went from barely being able to hook up my Laydown on a medium bite track to getting good traction with a gear diff and shocks on the front of rear arms by adding the Xray carbon. Not disputing the value or preference vs a b6 but the comment about the carbon is wrong and should be prefaced by indicating a cheaper non factory carbon was used to be fair

Originally Posted by raved007
I agree with you i have xb2 DE also upgrade carbon chassis running with medium dirt track more worst than stock chassis. And purchaed b6d with laydown transmission to taste how compare with xb2 and wow b6d is way more better than xb2 so i sold xb2 never go back xb2 only i like the plastik parts ofx xray is top quality compare to b6d
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Old 11-02-2016, 12:47 PM
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i think people just don't know how to set cars up without listening to the book. the book setups are not very good. on carpet there is too much roll and on clay there is not near enough traction. you have to know when to follow the book setting and when to deviate based on what surface you're on and what you're looking to achieve with the car.

in my experience the TLR and AE book setups are much better out of the box and are much better on clay. that doesn't mean the car is better. xray is made in Europe - Europeans are weird - we all know and believe this - it only makes sense the setup is a little weird too. That doesn't mean we can't groom them into polite blokes with some controlled edge and aggression to boot.
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Old 11-02-2016, 01:25 PM
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popcorn out. feet up. waiting
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Old 11-02-2016, 01:27 PM
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Old 11-02-2016, 01:37 PM
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lol.. i aint touchin those posts..
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Old 11-02-2016, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by lyons238
the vast majority of people on this forum and around my area wont touch a rear motor. it's just the way it is bro. sure in some places theres loose outdoor tracks, but those are the minority. since when do companies ever cater toward the minority? that's just bad business is what im saying, unless it's there only way to capitalize due to too high of competition or not enough resources internally to compete.
again you assume minority based on what you see. if you are a pro driver have a killer indoor track and travel from premiere track to premiere track. those people are the minority of RC racing, those premiere races grab the headlines and talk, and then yes some RC car manf's cater that...hence then minority.

alot of talk about clay, indoor, carpet, and laydown trans tells me....we are not on the same page. but that occurs with two car types mixed into the same thread.
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Old 11-02-2016, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by dgrobe2112
lol.. i aint touchin those posts..
Here we go.......
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Old 11-02-2016, 11:36 PM
  #4003  
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If you want it consistent on medium grip the Xray factory carbon chassis is a huge help with the added flex. Car is fine on medium grip with the stock 4 degrees toe and a brass rear front hanger. Plus you'll be way underweight and have a lot of room to add weight where you need it. You don't need a 17 edition. I'd spend my money on a new 16 or good condition ised 16 and use the money saved to buy Xray carbon chassis. DO NOT buy aftermarket carbon they are just the opposite and stiff. Hope this helps you... Ohh b5-6 wheels are fine. I use them. Just get an exotek $15 rear hexes. Front are 0.75mm wider using standard hexes so not noticeable (for me). I've been running AE wheels this whole time. They are also very soft. Almost as soft as Xray.

Originally Posted by tony montana
I'm looking at the 17 edition to run on dirt medium grip. Our track is starting to run laydown cars now and the dirt edition looks to be only stand up. Few questions, does the 17 come with wheels? Does associated type front and rear wheels work on the car? How many have run the 16 carpet edition on medium dirt with success? Also what options am I looking at to run it on medium dirt. I'm assuming the ball diff will probably be the number 1 answer. Is the ball diff a direct fit in the carpet car? Also is the meduim and hard parts included in the 17 car like the 16? I have driven both the b6d laydown and 22 3.0 laydown at our track with decent success. Thanks for the help
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Old 11-03-2016, 04:08 AM
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Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars
again you assume minority based on what you see. if you are a pro driver have a killer indoor track and travel from premiere track to premiere track. those people are the minority of RC racing, those premiere races grab the headlines and talk, and then yes some RC car manf's cater that...hence then minority.

alot of talk about clay, indoor, carpet, and laydown trans tells me....we are not on the same page. but that occurs with two car types mixed into the same thread.
You are the minority.

If you weren't than companies would still be selling rear motor cars but they're not...any more brain busters
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Old 11-03-2016, 05:12 AM
  #4005  
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Originally Posted by lyons238
You are the minority.

If you weren't than companies would still be selling rear motor cars but they're not...any more brain busters
some years ago when the 22 1.0 came out and it was rear motor with the ability to make it mid motor, I remember reading many people saying things about mid motor and dirt were silly or stupid. People tried it and many have switched. however not EVERYONE has switched. We all know your track in Rhode Island is the leading track in the world and everyone else has to follow it, but I wont.

Really you shouldn't make generalizations like you are. Yes most companies are doing mid motors right now, like most companies were doing short course trucks 5 years ago.

Doesn't mean its better or right, its the current trend. I am not saying RM is better than MM or vice versa. I am saying being closed minded about it is not correct. Because YOU don't do it, doesn't mean I shouldn't. especially since the company promised they would make it possible.

Also your past post about maybe I should just stick to the 22 because the parts are expensive on the xray and there is more maintance... Your logic is flawed on this one too. By your logic, if I can comfortably afford a Ferrari, I should still only buy a civic...because I only drive around the streets and I don't race. Its honestly just wrong.

I was going to let the topic go because Bent responded, which is what I wanted, but you keep going on, so I now have said what I wanted to say the first time, but closed out instead.

(I mean no disrespect to Rhode Island, its a lovely state and it has the best tasting water I ever had)
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