Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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#3226
First I apologize if this has been asked but before I got my car I read the first 100 pages of this forum and now there are double that. I just don't have the time to check and see if this has been asked sorry.
So I am converting my XB2 CE to go to dirt. Our carpet track closed and our dirt track is now revamped. Anyways I don't have the money to buy the DE and don't really want to buy extra parts. So I am
Trying to tune my CE to the track the best way possible.
I assume that going full flex will help except that some of the screws they list as flex screws seem to be vital to the cars performance. So which screws do I remove to gain the most flex?
I have already move the both axels forward to give more weight in the rear and moved the shocks to the rear position. Next I will be playing with suspension ( springs/oils/piston) but first I want to get everything mechanically setup for looser track.
Thanks everyone!
So I am converting my XB2 CE to go to dirt. Our carpet track closed and our dirt track is now revamped. Anyways I don't have the money to buy the DE and don't really want to buy extra parts. So I am
Trying to tune my CE to the track the best way possible.
I assume that going full flex will help except that some of the screws they list as flex screws seem to be vital to the cars performance. So which screws do I remove to gain the most flex?
I have already move the both axels forward to give more weight in the rear and moved the shocks to the rear position. Next I will be playing with suspension ( springs/oils/piston) but first I want to get everything mechanically setup for looser track.
Thanks everyone!
Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.
Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.
Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.
Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.
Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.
#3227
Updated the wiki. Please "sign" your wiki posts.
#3228
i bought the 4 gear trans....was there anything else i needed or was it included in the kit?
#3229
I got all of my parts from A main. Do you have the CE or the DE? If the DE, then you could have just slightly drilled the case for the 4 gear addition to the 3 gear that came stock.
IF you have the CE, then you won't need any extra parts.
#3230
I love it when people blame equipment. Same people who think that since I charge at 50amps I'm faster because of it.
That said, there's a binding problem. Pull the pieces apart, sounds like swollen O rings or some flashing on the bushings, or a bent shock shaft.
The parts can't inherently do any of those functions themselves, they require a user to either put the parts together wrong, not presoak the orings, or crash and bend a shock shaft.
That said, there's a binding problem. Pull the pieces apart, sounds like swollen O rings or some flashing on the bushings, or a bent shock shaft.
The parts can't inherently do any of those functions themselves, they require a user to either put the parts together wrong, not presoak the orings, or crash and bend a shock shaft.
#3231
You'll need another cross pin, another set of idler gear bearings, and an idler gear.
I got all of my parts from A main. Do you have the CE or the DE? If the DE, then you could have just slightly drilled the case for the 4 gear addition to the 3 gear that came stock.
IF you have the CE, then you won't need any extra parts.
I got all of my parts from A main. Do you have the CE or the DE? If the DE, then you could have just slightly drilled the case for the 4 gear addition to the 3 gear that came stock.
IF you have the CE, then you won't need any extra parts.
I do have the DE I just didn't want to drill the other one
#3232
gotta love how you ask for advise and someones got to be a dick. shafts arent bent and shocks are built right ive checked all that. I can loosen the bottom cap and recenter the bushing and the shocks go back to being buttery smooth. and will stay that way for a few runs. this is a perfect example of why hardly anybody runs an xray. you cant even get simple advice without someone being an ass or a know it all. the b6 cant get here fast enough. everyone at my track runs associated and even the fastest guy there is always willing to help someone with there car. and not be a douche about it. im just going to put associated shocks on it and be done with it.
This is a tech based forum. When you ask a question, you'll get an answer. It's not always right, but most do their best to help. When you immediately start blaming the car, and telling people that are trying to help that they're wrong, and then go on to explain that another has the same problem with completely different symptoms, most people aren't going to spend more time trying to help you.
Me though, I don't mind. I'll make humor of your situation, but still explain what the issue could be, and how you'd go about fixing it.
Nobody runs Xray because for the most part, the car is unproven. A company needs big name drivers within their defined territory to successfully display the car in a winning light. Then sales happen. Sure, nice people help sell car brands, but in the big picture, wins are what matters. Until Xray or RC America put together a budget for a big time US racer, they'll continue to have niche markets. Edit: I'm trying my best to put out correct and helpful information about the car. Tt's on par with all of the current brands, but certainly has a few quarks here and there. I'm not a team driver, I'm not a paid pro, but I do qualify for a mains, and love being competitive.
I'm also willing to always help the local guy and not be "a douche" about it. That is, until they come off as badly as you have, then they get ignored. I promise, if you make a habit of acting like you do, you'll run into a lot more people that will treat you like I do than you will people that are willing to "take it".
#3234
Yes, it was my eclip. problem solved. Thank you
sounds like the c clip on top holding the piston has come loose[/QUOTE]
sounds like the c clip on top holding the piston has come loose[/QUOTE]
#3235
anyone have a 3x20 pin for the trans? amain doesnt carry the xray ones and the serpent is back ordered.
Found some on sites that im not familiar with and dont trust due to 2 weeks ago my bank account being hacked
Found some on sites that im not familiar with and dont trust due to 2 weeks ago my bank account being hacked
#3236
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
Congratulations Alexander and GregerL (on here) to the deal, its well deserved.
http://www.neobuggy.net/2016/06/17/a...ay/#more-76686
#3237
#3238
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (15)
For any of those with the CE edition running on med-high bite clay WITH the lay down tranny not the DE trans...is a low pro servo preferable?
I was hoping to get away with a standard servo and potentially adding a 25g under battery weight shifted as far back as the lay down trans will warrant. I have a 6.5t motor so weight isn't much of a concern, but balance is. Will a somewhat beefy standard servo be too front heavy even with the battery weight?
Iv just not had good luck with shorty servos. I run the Hitec 9630 servo in my 4wd and it seems incredible so far. I'd like to run one in my 2wd as well but the weight balance concerns me for clay, carpet I'm sure it would be excellent.
I was hoping to get away with a standard servo and potentially adding a 25g under battery weight shifted as far back as the lay down trans will warrant. I have a 6.5t motor so weight isn't much of a concern, but balance is. Will a somewhat beefy standard servo be too front heavy even with the battery weight?
Iv just not had good luck with shorty servos. I run the Hitec 9630 servo in my 4wd and it seems incredible so far. I'd like to run one in my 2wd as well but the weight balance concerns me for clay, carpet I'm sure it would be excellent.
#3240
Tech Elite
iTrader: (33)
For any of those with the CE edition running on med-high bite clay WITH the lay down tranny not the DE trans...is a low pro servo preferable?
I was hoping to get away with a standard servo and potentially adding a 25g under battery weight shifted as far back as the lay down trans will warrant. I have a 6.5t motor so weight isn't much of a concern, but balance is. Will a somewhat beefy standard servo be too front heavy even with the battery weight?
Iv just not had good luck with shorty servos. I run the Hitec 9630 servo in my 4wd and it seems incredible so far. I'd like to run one in my 2wd as well but the weight balance concerns me for clay, carpet I'm sure it would be excellent.
I was hoping to get away with a standard servo and potentially adding a 25g under battery weight shifted as far back as the lay down trans will warrant. I have a 6.5t motor so weight isn't much of a concern, but balance is. Will a somewhat beefy standard servo be too front heavy even with the battery weight?
Iv just not had good luck with shorty servos. I run the Hitec 9630 servo in my 4wd and it seems incredible so far. I'd like to run one in my 2wd as well but the weight balance concerns me for clay, carpet I'm sure it would be excellent.