Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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#2912
#2913
#2914
#2915
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
your setup sheet says you are not running the upper brace between the battery and the motor. is that for more flex? can you show some pics of that?
I'm running the setup you first posted, and i really like it. but have only been able to run it one weekend so far.
Also you were talking about wanting to narrow your rear pivot, you could do center dot in the front hanger and 1deg in on the rear, that would narrow it up a bit and keep your toe the same (but not as much as you want I don't think)
And what are you looking to change with that?
Thanks
I'm running the setup you first posted, and i really like it. but have only been able to run it one weekend so far.
Also you were talking about wanting to narrow your rear pivot, you could do center dot in the front hanger and 1deg in on the rear, that would narrow it up a bit and keep your toe the same (but not as much as you want I don't think)
And what are you looking to change with that?
Thanks
#2916
your setup sheet says you are not running the upper brace between the battery and the motor. is that for more flex? can you show some pics of that?
I'm running the setup you first posted, and i really like it. but have only been able to run it one weekend so far.
Also you were talking about wanting to narrow your rear pivot, you could do center dot in the front hanger and 1deg in on the rear, that would narrow it up a bit and keep your toe the same (but not as much as you want I don't think)
And what are you looking to change with that?
Thanks
I'm running the setup you first posted, and i really like it. but have only been able to run it one weekend so far.
Also you were talking about wanting to narrow your rear pivot, you could do center dot in the front hanger and 1deg in on the rear, that would narrow it up a bit and keep your toe the same (but not as much as you want I don't think)
And what are you looking to change with that?
Thanks
Glad the setup is working well for you. I'm super happy with the car.
I want to go to the most narrow location as this car stock has a VERY wide pivot. Which for high bite is very much welcomed - the idea for the narrower pivot is to make the car more progressive when it rolls in a corner. Wider can make the car react quicker in my experience, but also force you to run the car stiffer roll center wise to make up for this. The narrow pivot can add corner speed on a looser surface.
The issue I have, is if I go "full narrow" I have to revert to 4 degrees of toe which would go against my plan to gain corner speed.
#2917
If I'm critiquing that setup, and imo:
no reason not to run the upper brace. you'll have a better chance of having a bent chassis that way. If flex is what you need I would just run the center screw only there and move to the inner holes on the underside of the waterfall brace.
also, if this setup is for low traction then I wouldnt space up the suspension blocks either as seen in the previous pictures. Its counter intuitive to making more traction. If you need traction you should be the pins in and down.
rear oil is too heavy as well.
If you are running in low traction situations I would highly suggest running Xray wheels and the under battery weight. The xray wheels are much softer.
no reason not to run the upper brace. you'll have a better chance of having a bent chassis that way. If flex is what you need I would just run the center screw only there and move to the inner holes on the underside of the waterfall brace.
also, if this setup is for low traction then I wouldnt space up the suspension blocks either as seen in the previous pictures. Its counter intuitive to making more traction. If you need traction you should be the pins in and down.
rear oil is too heavy as well.
If you are running in low traction situations I would highly suggest running Xray wheels and the under battery weight. The xray wheels are much softer.
#2918
If I'm critiquing that setup, and imo:
no reason not to run the upper brace. you'll have a better chance of having a bent chassis that way. If flex is what you need I would just run the center screw only there and move to the inner holes on the underside of the waterfall brace.
also, if this setup is for low traction then I wouldnt space up the suspension blocks either as seen in the previous pictures. Its counter intuitive to making more traction. If you need traction you should be the pins in and down.
rear oil is too heavy as well.
If you are running in low traction situations I would highly suggest running Xray wheels and the under battery weight. The xray wheels are much softer.
no reason not to run the upper brace. you'll have a better chance of having a bent chassis that way. If flex is what you need I would just run the center screw only there and move to the inner holes on the underside of the waterfall brace.
also, if this setup is for low traction then I wouldnt space up the suspension blocks either as seen in the previous pictures. Its counter intuitive to making more traction. If you need traction you should be the pins in and down.
rear oil is too heavy as well.
If you are running in low traction situations I would highly suggest running Xray wheels and the under battery weight. The xray wheels are much softer.
I spaced the block up because of the bent D mounts several experienced. waiting for the exotek to drop so I won't have to worry about it.
I'm also going to try the dremeled lower front spindle soon.
I've since gone up in rear oil.
Edit: it's also 105 outside already, btw.
#2919
ahh.. didn't event think about the temp so that makes sense
when you do the front spindle you are going to have to dremel the caster block and steering block for clearance. I definitely helps smooth out the steering as well.
curious to see the exotek myself. did he say when they are going to be out?
when you do the front spindle you are going to have to dremel the caster block and steering block for clearance. I definitely helps smooth out the steering as well.
curious to see the exotek myself. did he say when they are going to be out?
#2920
Ok I glanced over the XB2 Nation page and didn't see anything about modifying the front spindles...spill it!
#2921
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
If I'm critiquing that setup, and imo:
no reason not to run the upper brace. you'll have a better chance of having a bent chassis that way. If flex is what you need I would just run the center screw only there and move to the inner holes on the underside of the waterfall brace.
also, if this setup is for low traction then I wouldnt space up the suspension blocks either as seen in the previous pictures. Its counter intuitive to making more traction. If you need traction you should be the pins in and down.
rear oil is too heavy as well.
If you are running in low traction situations I would highly suggest running Xray wheels and the under battery weight. The xray wheels are much softer.
no reason not to run the upper brace. you'll have a better chance of having a bent chassis that way. If flex is what you need I would just run the center screw only there and move to the inner holes on the underside of the waterfall brace.
also, if this setup is for low traction then I wouldnt space up the suspension blocks either as seen in the previous pictures. Its counter intuitive to making more traction. If you need traction you should be the pins in and down.
rear oil is too heavy as well.
If you are running in low traction situations I would highly suggest running Xray wheels and the under battery weight. The xray wheels are much softer.
i space both rear carriers up also, actually started doing it not to prevent breaking but to stop the severe dragging of the rear carrier and rear A-arms. on a moist track they drag on huge jump launches and on landings. packing the area with mud because the rear lobes hang below the chassis. see first photo below.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/14489510-post2592.html
so even if Xray beefs them up, and Exotech makes a 3deg - beefed up version, if the lobes are still too low, i will continue spacing up both rear carriers. something imo, ozite track owners may want to watch out for on their tracks, with 2 ends of the rear carrier hitting the carpet first instead of just a chassis flat slapping on landings like other cars
30W oil in the rear was not cutting it in my car, due to jumps at our track it is too soft, i went up 2.5 at a time, i stopped at 37.5 in the rear, 1.6 pistons F/R. i run kyosho golds front and rear, and at times TLR hi-freq silver-F and red or pink-R springs. 10.5 motor and a 32G under battery weight
Last edited by fast-ho-cars; 04-29-2016 at 12:08 AM.
#2922
Tech Elite
iTrader: (43)
There's about a half mm difference between the middle roll center bushing and the 1* roll center option. So keep that in mind when spacing up the blocks. I actually spaced the rear block and kept the front the same so I could run the highest roll center option but have 3.5* of toe, seems to be the best combo I've found for my track.
I'm running a similar oil and piston combo as Socket's setup on my CE, I think since the Xray pistons are thinner than other cars we run higher weight oil to get the same feeling as a lower weight on another car. Or tracks are just getting higher bite...
I'm running a similar oil and piston combo as Socket's setup on my CE, I think since the Xray pistons are thinner than other cars we run higher weight oil to get the same feeling as a lower weight on another car. Or tracks are just getting higher bite...
#2923
ahh.. didn't event think about the temp so that makes sense
when you do the front spindle you are going to have to dremel the caster block and steering block for clearance. I definitely helps smooth out the steering as well.
curious to see the exotek myself. did he say when they are going to be out?
when you do the front spindle you are going to have to dremel the caster block and steering block for clearance. I definitely helps smooth out the steering as well.
curious to see the exotek myself. did he say when they are going to be out?
Do you have pics of the spindle and castor block change?
#2924
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (15)
My XB2 should be here soon. it is the CE edition and will only run on carpet.
What are the must have upgrades? I was thinking...
- alum front and rear roll center holders
- alum rear uprights
- alum servo mounts
- alum front brace and suspension holder?
- alum DE steering plate?
Will that about cover me for a nice durable, nimble, and smooth carpet and astro car?
What are the must have upgrades? I was thinking...
- alum front and rear roll center holders
- alum rear uprights
- alum servo mounts
- alum front brace and suspension holder?
- alum DE steering plate?
Will that about cover me for a nice durable, nimble, and smooth carpet and astro car?
Last edited by lyons238; 04-29-2016 at 06:59 AM.
#2925
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
There's about a half mm difference between the middle roll center bushing and the 1* roll center option. So keep that in mind when spacing up the blocks. I actually spaced the rear block and kept the front the same so I could run the highest roll center option but have 3.5* of toe, seems to be the best combo I've found for my track.
I'm running a similar oil and piston combo as Socket's setup on my CE, I think since the Xray pistons are thinner than other cars we run higher weight oil to get the same feeling as a lower weight on another car. Or tracks are just getting higher bite...
I'm running a similar oil and piston combo as Socket's setup on my CE, I think since the Xray pistons are thinner than other cars we run higher weight oil to get the same feeling as a lower weight on another car. Or tracks are just getting higher bite...