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Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread

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Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread

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Old 05-04-2019, 06:44 PM   -   Wikipost
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe) or add 1.5mm carbon avid spacers



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 04-09-2016, 10:29 AM
  #2521  
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Originally Posted by Socket
I plan on pulling the top shaft, measuring my shim stack, and snapping some pics for you guys today...It's race day!

Awesome, thank you!
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Old 04-09-2016, 12:46 PM
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if you want to use a 17.5 with a 75t, what pinion?
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Old 04-09-2016, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by rekim
if you want to use a 17.5 with a 75t, what pinion?
I am using a 34 with a Tekin gen 3 and 50 degrees of timing. I run at srs
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Old 04-09-2016, 09:27 PM
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Ceramic bearings... how do you guys feel about them? Do you think the xb2 would benefit? Are there kits available or would one have to piece one out, I couldnt find any.
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Old 04-09-2016, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by ogmudbum
Ceramic bearings... how do you guys feel about them? Do you think the xb2 would benefit? Are there kits available or would one have to piece one out, I couldnt find any.
Kit bearings spin amazing, no real need for ceramics.
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Old 04-09-2016, 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by WillS
Kit bearings spin amazing, no real need for ceramics.
Thats what i was thinking my front wheels will spin for 3x as long as my 22 3.0's did, and everything just feels so much smoother. But I have not had any experience with ceramics so I wasn't sure if they would be better or not.
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Old 04-09-2016, 11:54 PM
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Anyone running the reedy Mach 3 17.5 1s with the 12.5 rotor in stock? Gearing and timing?
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Old 04-10-2016, 09:09 AM
  #2528  
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Default Missing parts

Anyone else here missing parts in their kit? My kit only came with 3 bearing s for the steering rack. Another at my track was missing a ball in the diff.
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Old 04-10-2016, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by ogmudbum
Ceramic bearings... how do you guys feel about them? Do you think the xb2 would benefit? Are there kits available or would one have to piece one out, I couldnt find any.
I've always filled every car I've owned with ceramics; I have a full set of ceramics for this car when I did the build.

However, the OEM bearings are unlike any I've ever seen. The lack of drag is amazing. I built the car with them, and have continued to run them. I will replace them with ceramics when it's time.
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Old 04-10-2016, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by English365
Anyone running the reedy Mach 3 17.5 1s with the 12.5 rotor in stock? Gearing and timing?
Gearing is going to be more about the surface and layout than anything else. I can tell you now, you're going to need to figure a fan out, as the short stack motor is pretty sensitive to heat fade.

I would start at 43 degrees of timing, 32x72, and work from there. When you run a fan, you worry less about temps, and more about feel. I would tell you, run 4 laps with this setup, then try a 31. run 4 laps, then try a 33. Once you find the right feel and speed, and lap time, run for 8 minutes and see how it feels around the 5 minute mark, if it's not fading, bump timing up a little.
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Old 04-10-2016, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Socket
Gearing is going to be more about the surface and layout than anything else. I can tell you now, you're going to need to figure a fan out, as the short stack motor is pretty sensitive to heat fade.

I would start at 43 degrees of timing, 32x72, and work from there. When you run a fan, you worry less about temps, and more about feel. I would tell you, run 4 laps with this setup, then try a 31. run 4 laps, then try a 33. Once you find the right feel and speed, and lap time, run for 8 minutes and see how it feels around the 5 minute mark, if it's not fading, bump timing up a little.
What fans fit? Thank you!
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Old 04-10-2016, 12:57 PM
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If I were wanting to fit a fan, which I will be soon...

I'd copy Matt's setup here.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/14436433-post18840.html

The mount can be purchased here...

http://www.discountrcstore.com/Schum...F2-p/u4696.htm

Remember, I tape my battery in.
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Old 04-10-2016, 02:15 PM
  #2533  
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In my b5m I run a reedy 17.5 at 42 degrees timing 72/32. Thing is fast! 12 minutes on med size tight track with a 70 foot straight coming off at 125 after 8 minute. Ran for 13 mins yesterday came off at 135. Have a new souprd up fantom haven't installed yet because the reedy is so fast for a 90$ motor

Originally Posted by Socket
Gearing is going to be more about the surface and layout than anything else. I can tell you now, you're going to need to figure a fan out, as the short stack motor is pretty sensitive to heat fade.

I would start at 43 degrees of timing, 32x72, and work from there. When you run a fan, you worry less about temps, and more about feel. I would tell you, run 4 laps with this setup, then try a 31. run 4 laps, then try a 33. Once you find the right feel and speed, and lap time, run for 8 minutes and see how it feels around the 5 minute mark, if it's not fading, bump timing up a little.

Last edited by JAE; 04-10-2016 at 02:19 PM. Reason: Spelling
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Old 04-10-2016, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by JAE
In my b5m I run a reedy 17.5 at 42 degrees timing 72/32. Thing is fast! 12 minutes on med size tight track with a 70 foot straight coming off at 125 after 8 minute. Ran for 13 mins yesterday came off at 135. Have a new souprd up fantom haven't installed yet because the reedy is so fast for a 90$ motor
Not running the 12.5 rotor, or are you not running the 1s?
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Old 04-10-2016, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Socket
If I were wanting to fit a fan, which I will be soon...

I'd copy Matt's setup here.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/14436433-post18840.html

The mount can be purchased here...

http://www.discountrcstore.com/Schum...F2-p/u4696.htm

Remember, I tape my battery in.

I'm running a ce nice setup though.
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