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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 02-15-2016, 11:19 AM   #1456
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well if my losi 22 3.0 low profile project doesn't work out ill for sure be trying one of these out for the local carpet and astro tracks. at the only clay track left in the area they yz2 and xb2 seem to do really good when the grip gets super high. i got the chance to check one out yesterday and i really like it, it oozes quality
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Old 02-15-2016, 01:02 PM   #1457
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Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
Take some pics and post them. I find it unlikely, not impossible, that the issue is design related. Are you sure everything on the car is installed correctly? Could there be something that you installed backwards or spaced incorrectly?
first pick is full travel
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Old 02-15-2016, 01:04 PM   #1458
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Originally Posted by Patsfan12 View Post
first pick is full travel
pic 2 is the bind pick

Last edited by Patsfan12; 02-15-2016 at 01:08 PM. Reason: No pic
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Old 02-15-2016, 01:07 PM   #1459
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pic 2 is the bind pick
bind
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Old 02-15-2016, 01:23 PM   #1460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patsfan12 View Post
first pick is full travel
When using shock position middle on tower and middle on arm use 4mm of up travel shims on the outside of the shock to eliminate binding during full travel.

Bent
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Old 02-15-2016, 02:00 PM   #1461
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so how are you guys getting this car to get initial turn in the rear is so locked in that it just pushes off the carpet track
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Old 02-15-2016, 03:08 PM   #1462
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Originally Posted by Patsfan12 View Post
So on my xb2 ce im having a severe bind issue in the rear because of the drive shaft. Anything I can do other then the new style CVD's that are not available? Only happens on right side. Very frustrated!
pic's please
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Old 02-15-2016, 03:09 PM   #1463
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I also called today for other things and was told about 10 days
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Old 02-15-2016, 03:56 PM   #1464
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Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
When using shock position middle on tower and middle on arm use 4mm of up travel shims on the outside of the shock to eliminate binding during full travel.

Bent
I put the 4mm shim and it's not enough it's doing it even before shim. Any other ideas?? Thanks BEnt for the help
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Old 02-15-2016, 04:15 PM   #1465
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Originally Posted by Rouleau View Post
so how are you guys getting this car to get initial turn in the rear is so locked in that it just pushes off the carpet track
I raced mine on Astro this last Saturday and had loads of steering using the setup from the Trencin race. http://site.petitrc.com/setup/xray/s...cin2015112022/
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Old 02-15-2016, 04:16 PM   #1466
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thank you i'll give that a shot
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Old 02-15-2016, 04:20 PM   #1467
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patsfan12 View Post
I put the 4mm shim and it's not enough it's doing it even before shim. Any other ideas?? Thanks BEnt for the help
If 4mm isn't enough you add more shims on the outside of the shock.

How many shims you need depends on shock position, hinge pin insert positions and camber link positions.

You use the up travel shims to avoid the driveshafts coming in contact with the outdrives.

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Old 02-15-2016, 05:02 PM   #1468
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Originally Posted by wittyname View Post
Well , when I'm wrong I'm wrong .... After spending many a minute over the weekend really comparing the cars out there and the price points, both versions of this kit seem to be good values. I'm really surprised at what people are charging for 2wd kits now, and what actually comes in the box ...
I hear you, but I'm basically OK with it given how far we've come. I run my cars for a while, and the parts rarely seem to break. Wear is pretty good on most of these buggies too. I feel like I get a decent return on my investment on the Serpent and XRAY vehicles, and they seem to have everything you need right in the box. AE and TLR have gotten better, but until recently it seemed like the box items just got you going, and then most usually dumped about $100 more into the car.
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Old 02-15-2016, 08:56 PM   #1469
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Originally Posted by Patsfan12 View Post
first pick is full travel
try making the car as wide as u can how much toe is it set at #1 up and inside i see... how much camber? mic ur dog bone 2 be sure it's correct length ...it is too deep in the outdrive 4sure
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Old 02-15-2016, 11:05 PM   #1470
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first pick is full travel
you probably put the cvd pin in the center of the driveshaft barrel
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