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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 01-20-2016, 04:28 PM   #1126
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Thanks for all the comments on the weight I made . At the moment I'm still testing it but I could make some of to sell maybe lighter version...
I tried it Tuesday evening and wasn't overwhelmed by it...
The track is medium-lowish carpet and medium sized.


pro's:
+The rear was a bit more planted, it didn't let go easily on slow and tight corners.
+acceleration was a bit more stable.

Con's:
-The rear rolled a bit more so in fast turns the car flipped over more easily.
-Braking took a bit more distance. I really didn't like that.
-The inertia in fast chicanes made the rear of the car lazier.

I made today some 1mm thick steel plate 50g (equivalent to the team setup) to test the weight distribution and compare it :



I'll try next club meeting (tuesday) the difference between the team setup 50g weight and that one in how it drives.
Maybe I'll give a go at a lighter one, any idea what should I aim for ? 30-40g ? I've got time to make another one on friday possibly monday on my spare time.

Jonathan
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Old 01-20-2016, 04:32 PM   #1127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shannow View Post
Thanks for all the comments on the weight I made . At the moment I'm still testing it but I could make some of to sell maybe lighter version...
I tried it Tuesday evening and wasn't overwhelmed by it...
The track is medium-lowish carpet and medium sized.


pro's:
+The rear was a bit more planted, it didn't let go easily on slow and tight corners.
+acceleration was a bit more stable.

Con's:
-The rear rolled a bit more so in fast turns the car flipped over more easily.
-Braking took a bit more distance. I really didn't like that.
-The inertia in fast chicanes made the rear of the car lazier.

I made today some 1mm thick steel plate 50g (equivalent to the team setup) to test the weight distribution and compare it :



I'll try next club meeting (tuesday) the difference between the team setup 50g weight and that one in how it drives.
Maybe I'll give a go at a lighter one, any idea what should I aim for ? 30-40g ? I've got time to make another one on friday possibly monday on my spare time.

Jonathan
I'm running on clay and have had to make some setup compromised to get enough rear traction, I think ultimately it's due to the weight distribution. With that said, the easiest way would be to add weight, so that 60g piece may be perfect for people like me waiting for the dirt edition parts...
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Old 01-20-2016, 04:32 PM   #1128
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Ok, so when we talk about the front needing to be -0.75, I guess that is from a starting point of 0.00 which is what comes stock in the kit? Again for AE wheel offset....!
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Old 01-20-2016, 05:05 PM   #1129
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Could anyone suggest a high bite setup?
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Old 01-20-2016, 05:22 PM   #1130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yodace View Post
Could anyone suggest a high bite setup?
http://site.petitrc.com/setup/xray/s...cin2015112022/

This setup is really good.
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Old 01-20-2016, 06:14 PM   #1131
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i have just finished bag 4 on my build. i can say without a doubt, this is the best build i have ever built to date so far.

im taking my time on it because the weather has been terrible and i dont want to finish it and just look at it
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Old 01-20-2016, 06:54 PM   #1132
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I was wondering how the ball diff is going for everyone? Just curious on how long the diff rings and the diff balls will last before they need to be replaced.
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Old 01-20-2016, 11:44 PM   #1133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blwaz23 View Post
I was wondering how the ball diff is going for everyone? Just curious on how long the diff rings and the diff balls will last before they need to be replaced.
We typically get 4-5 months of astro and carpet racing out of them before needing a rebuild

Bent
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Old 01-21-2016, 02:16 AM   #1134
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I run the Malin EOS setup with the differences being no brass bulkhead and a 25g under lipo weight vs the 50g. The rear end of the buggy is absolutely locked in. I had a bit of push on high speed corners but I attribute that to the wrong front tyres (slightly worn stagger rib vs the normal LP cut stagger) The car just went wherever I put it.

Personally I will not be straying too far from this setup as it is a great compromise of grip and rotation.

This was on medium grip carpet.
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Old 01-21-2016, 04:44 AM   #1135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
We typically get 4-5 months of astro and carpet racing out of them before needing a rebuild

Bent
Any specific way to break in the ball diff for it to last longer or just break it in like a standard ball diff?
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Old 01-21-2016, 04:59 AM   #1136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blwaz23 View Post
Any specific way to break in the ball diff for it to last longer or just break it in like a standard ball diff?

I've just proof read the new break-in instructions and setup guide for the ball diff and slipper clutch I had Xray make for the Dirt Edition manual.

Can't share it yet, but it will have short to the point instructions with superb illustrations explaining how to do it the way I've done it personally since the 90's

And hopefully it will be very easy to understand and of great help to those with not so much experience from ball diffs.

Dirt Edition release coming sooooooon

Bent
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Old 01-21-2016, 06:03 AM   #1137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
We typically get 4-5 months of astro and carpet racing out of them before needing a rebuild

Bent
Wow, thats actually phenomenal life
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Old 01-21-2016, 06:23 AM   #1138
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Onroad-wise, xray's ball diffs have always been the best in business With Bent's "low stress" slipper setup, I would expect them to last a whole in 2wd too!
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Old 01-21-2016, 07:02 AM   #1139
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Default New Xray XB2 and XB4 ECS drive shafts

XB4 ECS Drive Shafts

• Decreases vibration
• Improves stability
• Increases steering
• Improves cornering speed
• Improves traction on rear suspension
• Improves landing after jumps
• Easier to drive

The unique XRAY ECS Drive Shaft equalizes the speed between the drive shaft and the wheel. With a unique 2-piece joint between the axle and the wheel, the same extreme wheel turning angle is divided into two shallower angles without joint binding. This means that at the same cornering speed, the inner wheel will not bind or vibrate. Drive through the corner is more stable, more precise, and easier to drive. When used in rear the ECS drive shafts help to improve traction as well. The ECS Drive Shafts help also with improved landing after jumps.

With the ECS drive shafts, wheel vibrations and noise are decreased to minimum, steering is increased, stability of the car is increased and cornering speed and smoothness are noticeably increased as well. A must have option part.

#365200 ECS Front Drive Shaft 81mm - HUDY Spring Steel™ (fits XB4)
#365300 ECS Rear Drive Shaft 68mm - HUDY Spring Steel™ (fits XB4 & XB2)

http://bit.ly/1JkkL3B









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Old 01-21-2016, 07:37 AM   #1140
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Bent, when you build your gear diffs, do you align the notches for the pin, or do you clock them 180deg from each other? I am referring to the molded bump on the case for the drive pins. Does this make sense?
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