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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 01-10-2016, 08:37 PM   #946
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Originally Posted by rekim View Post
i have been looking at this buggy and i am pretty sure it is going to be my next purchase... One thing i dont understand, what the is the "Luxury" part of the truck that is on the box and in the advertisements?

I get i dont understand the marketing on it...any have an idea what its about
its part of the xray marketing, nothing more..
some people love it and others find it gaudy, i fall into the latter so i ignore it.

when building the kit for instance, i was not overcome with feelings of sumptuousness, elegance or opulence. xray may however be alluding to a different definition of luxury "an inessential, desirable item which is expensive or difficult to obtain"
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Old 01-10-2016, 09:28 PM   #947
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K I've noticed this on both my Xb4 and Xb2..

Does it seem right.. To get my ride height I have to have the shock collars all the way up with battery forward and 100grams underneath battery (rear shocks).
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Old 01-11-2016, 01:28 AM   #948
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Okokobioko View Post
its part of the xray marketing, nothing more..
some people love it and others find it gaudy, i fall into the latter so i ignore it.

when building the kit for instance, i was not overcome with feelings of sumptuousness, elegance or opulence. xray may however be alluding to a different definition of luxury "an inessential, desirable item which is expensive or difficult to obtain"
when they got in the market with the T1 touring car, they really took it a notch above in terms of equipment, fit, quality... now the rest of the pack has caught up in some cases.

The build of my xb2 was probably one of the smoothest ever... and I've been in the hobby since '86.

Which didn't prevent me from forgetting a bearing in the transmission case, hence the top shaft wobble mentionned a couple of pages ago
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Old 01-11-2016, 01:29 AM   #949
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Lo-pro servo -> dremel the stock mount. 30s job
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Old 01-11-2016, 03:19 AM   #950
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Originally Posted by 3srcracing View Post
K I've noticed this on both my Xb4 and Xb2..

Does it seem right.. To get my ride height I have to have the shock collars all the way up with battery forward and 100grams underneath battery (rear shocks).
To what ride height ?

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Old 01-11-2016, 03:21 AM   #951
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3srcracing View Post
Didn't Brent say that changes the geometry using the aluminum mounts?
Quote:
Originally Posted by jswo View Post
looks good, anyone know if the aluminum servo mount changes anything?
It stiffens up the mounting of the servo obviously and allow you to clear the wire when using a low profile servo.

No changes in geometry.

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Old 01-11-2016, 04:51 AM   #952
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonestar View Post
when they got in the market with the T1 touring car, they really took it a notch above in terms of equipment, fit, quality... now the rest of the pack has caught up in some cases.

The build of my xb2 was probably one of the smoothest ever... and I've been in the hobby since '86.

Which didn't prevent me from forgetting a bearing in the transmission case, hence the top shaft wobble mentionned a couple of pages ago
I think that the term 'Luxury' was a direct result of the T1 launch and was originally used in the review by RCCA (if I remember correctly)...
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Old 01-11-2016, 05:40 AM   #953
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
It stiffens up the mounting of the servo obviously and allow you to clear the wire when using a low profile servo.

No changes in geometry.

Bent
Thank you
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Old 01-11-2016, 06:35 AM   #954
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How would you guys compare it to the b5m or the new 22. Is this truck better or worse or maybe the same. I know it's just an opinion and not looking to get into a Ford vs Chevy type debate. I don't have any way to test it out first which is why I try to read as much as I can
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Old 01-11-2016, 07:48 AM   #955
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Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
Thanks for taking the measurements Daniel... very interesting comparisons; are you gonna run your XB2-DE in stock or mod?
i have the carpet edition.. and will run it in stock.. the mod turnout is too low for my liking..
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Old 01-11-2016, 07:57 AM   #956
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Originally Posted by rekim View Post
How would you guys compare it to the b5m or the new 22. Is this truck better or worse or maybe the same. I know it's just an opinion and not looking to get into a Ford vs Chevy type debate. I don't have any way to test it out first which is why I try to read as much as I can
i think all the players now are legit in their own way..

one thing to consider.. the XB2 carpet edition.. comes with all the extra stuff.. or.. (spares) if you wish.. you get a full extra set of arms.. hubs.. top plate.. tons of extra stuff.. (different stiffness of course) but.. if your at the track.. and break.. you got a spare.. just in case..

also.. the Carpet, and Dirt edtion use the same chassis.. so.. a few bux.. you can buy the few parts to make the car dirt edition.. now.. when its hot.. and you start racing outdoors.. you got everything you need.. basically 2 cars in one..

you can see in my previous post.. looks like Losi guys.. are spending bout 100 bux.. to upgrade their 22, with lightened parts.. drive shafts.. ball diffs.. slipper parts and such.. but the stock parts on the Xray are already lighter than the stock parts on the 22.. not as light as the upgraded parts.. but seem to fall right in the middle.. example.. the losi part is 34 grams.. the light part is say.. 17.. the xray stock part is almost in the middle..

but.. the other brands you mention.. are good cars.. ive seen them on the track.. and i am impressed with them as well..
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Old 01-11-2016, 08:21 AM   #957
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so.. many periods.. this one has..

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Old 01-11-2016, 08:44 AM   #958
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Not trying to bash on TLR 22-3.0, just trying to provide some objective feedback and possibly cross reference any similar concerns that might be shared with the XB2 which may help negate any concerns that I had with the TLR build, not that any of these are deal breakers, just things that might be worth noting to help set expectations:
  • Car is a little heavy for stock racing out of the box and will need lightened aluminum and titanium parts in order to get closer to the minimum weight restriction of 1500g for stock ROAR racing. With a 5Ah shorty pack (213g) my car weighed in at 1573g with box stock parts.
  • Body is awkward to install, the nose is angled downward and tends to catch on the front body post requiring a pick of some sort to lift the body over the post unless you have extremely tiny fingers or untrimmed fingernails
  • No holes are provided in ball cups, had to punch my own
  • Mix matched SAE and Metric hardware on, 4-40 nut for steering plate, rear toe block and bleeder screws use SAE while rest of car used metric hardware
  • No aluminum rear hexes are included
  • Dated CVD design with set screws, many quality brands are using spring captured (or bearing captured) pins instead
  • e-clips are used to secure shock pistons, many high quality brands are using threaded lock nuts instead to simplify the build
  • There is a fair amount of slop in the links after 1 day of racing, might need to upgrade to an aluminum steering rack and higher quality ball links to correct this concern
  • Current product marketing fails to specify measurements for wheel hex size and off set making it nearly impossible to buy proper wheels without painstaking research. TLR 22-2.0 front wheels are not compatible with the v3.0, the v2.0 use 10mm hex, yes I learned this the hard way after mounting a new set of tires, doh! I also bought a set of aftermarket wheels that said RB6 rear wheels were compatible with the 22 but I had to add a rear 1.5mm thick spacer to get the lock nut to properly fasten. I'm only going to buy products specifically marked 3.0 compatible from now on!

It's worth noting that I was able to address weight concern with lightened upgrades and the slop in the links appears to be a non issue, my lap consistency scored on the timing system was one of the highest of the drivers at our local track running many other brands of cars (including an XB2-CE). I'm more of a middle of the pack sportsman driver, and the TLR 22-3.0 has me chasing the heels with some of the Pro level drivers now.

I look forward to running with Daniel Grobe soon in the stock class with his XB2-CE, I'm sure he'll school me, ha!
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Old 01-11-2016, 08:50 AM   #959
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Originally Posted by goehm View Post
so.. many periods.. this one has..

typed it on my phone. with the extra space putting a period, seems to be the norm when typing on my phone. sorry. i will edit it.

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Old 01-11-2016, 08:56 AM   #960
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Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
I look forward to running with Daniel Grobe soon in the stock class with his XB2-CE, I'm sure he'll school me, ha!
i look forward to it as well. i need a little time with the car first, but your welcome to give it a few laps around if you would like. i only have the stock setup on the car since i havent had time on it yet.

see ya there.
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