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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 12-27-2015, 01:58 PM   #751
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Originally Posted by avaldes View Post
Bent,

It is probably worth mentioning to Juraj that smaller spur gears and slipper lockouts are popular in spec racing in the US. The lockouts allow smaller spurs to work when you don't have to cage the slipper pads.

-Aaron
Make a 69T spur with built-in slipper eliminator.
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Old 12-27-2015, 02:16 PM   #752
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Originally Posted by J_Fitz View Post
Ran my XB2 carpet edition last night on indoor clay track. Had a tough time at first. Moved rear shocks behind shock tower and the car was great. It's a pretty high bite tacky clay surface. After switching the shocks, I felt I could add more braking and a bit more motor as well. I'm running the gear diff with 3,000 oil. 250 in front shocks, 400 in rear. Stock springs and pistons. Weight bias to the rear. 4 degree toe in rear.

A few Serpent drivers reccomended running the gear diff with only 2 spider gears and 5,000 oil. Not sure how the composite gears would hold up in this situation.
Biggest difference when moving shocks to the rear is you loose a lot of droop due to the angle of the arms (anti squat).

This in turn reduces weight transfer to the front when off power and gives more rear grip coming into corners.

If you unscrew the shock rod ends to maintain the same amount of rear droop as prior to moving the shocks the difference won't be that noticeable.

You do get a few grams extra weight behind the axle, a bit slower rotation and better bump handling though.

Instead of going to 5000 in the diff I would definitely try the ball diff.

We run the ball diff 90% of the time on all types of surfaces

Bent
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Old 12-27-2015, 11:51 PM   #753
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Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
Biggest difference when moving shocks to the rear is you loose a lot of droop due to the angle of the arms (anti squat).

This in turn reduces weight transfer to the front when off power and gives more rear grip coming into corners.

If you unscrew the shock rod ends to maintain the same amount of rear droop as prior to moving the shocks the difference won't be that noticeable.

You do get a few grams extra weight behind the axle, a bit slower rotation and better bump handling though.

Instead of going to 5000 in the diff I would definitely try the ball diff.

We run the ball diff 90% of the time on all types of surfaces

Bent
Any plans on making the laydown tranny in the carpet car 3 gear? I guess I'd be happy with a smaller spur before asking for major stuff
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Old 12-28-2015, 01:41 AM   #754
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Any plans on making the laydown tranny in the carpet car 3 gear? I guess I'd be happy with a smaller spur before asking for major stuff
No…..you have the 4 gear lay down transmission of the Carpet Edition + the 3 or 4 gear mid motor and rear motor of the Dirt Edition to choose from.

I'm pretty sure you will be able to find a setup that works for you

Bent
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Old 12-28-2015, 05:46 AM   #755
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No…..you have the 4 gear lay down transmission of the Carpet Edition + the 3 or 4 gear mid motor and rear motor of the Dirt Edition to choose from.

I'm pretty sure you will be able to find a setup that works for you

Bent
The only reason I asked is because a local racers showed up with the new Hobbypro buggy and it has a Lay down tranny 3gear setup and it looks pretty killer in the corners. I'm still going to wait and see what is done spur gear wise for 17.5 as the car seems more mod based currently.
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Old 12-28-2015, 06:09 AM   #756
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The only reason I asked is because a local racers showed up with the new Hobbypro buggy and it has a Lay down tranny 3gear setup and it looks pretty killer in the corners. I'm still going to wait and see what is done spur gear wise for 17.5 as the car seems more mod based currently.
Why does it look "more mod based" ? Except for the spur gear size ?

Car is already at or sub 1500 grams with standard electronics (ours 1480 with standard servo and 4800mAh shorty) and you can't get a more free running or lighter drivetrain than what the XB2 already has out of the box.

Bent
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Old 12-28-2015, 08:13 AM   #757
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Why does it look "more mod based" ? Except for the spur gear size ?

Car is already at or sub 1500 grams with standard electronics (ours 1480 with standard servo and 4800mAh shorty) and you can't get a more free running or lighter drivetrain than what the XB2 already has out of the box.

Bent
I say its more mod based based as for the gearing some of us run our motors at. This car is the same tranny ratio as the B5 and we run 69 and 72 spurs with it. That's all I was referring too. Thanks for the updates and killer response times to all of our questions. You a class act.
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Old 12-28-2015, 09:15 AM   #758
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I say its more mod based based as for the gearing some of us run our motors at. This car is the same tranny ratio as the B5 and we run 69 and 72 spurs with it. That's all I was referring too. Thanks for the updates and killer response times to all of our questions. You a class act.
Okay….I understand the gearing issue.

As mentioned earlier I'll see if I can get them to maybe put out a 72 spur.

But I doubt there will be a slipper eliminator for now.

Maybe when interest for running the XB2 in stock classes proves to be substantial it might be of interest though

Bent
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Old 12-28-2015, 09:52 AM   #759
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Im sure schelle or avid will produce a slipper unit as the xb2 becomes more popular...
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Old 12-28-2015, 10:39 AM   #760
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Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
Biggest difference when moving shocks to the rear is you loose a lot of droop due to the angle of the arms (anti squat).

This in turn reduces weight transfer to the front when off power and gives more rear grip coming into corners.

If you unscrew the shock rod ends to maintain the same amount of rear droop as prior to moving the shocks the difference won't be that noticeable.

You do get a few grams extra weight behind the axle, a bit slower rotation and better bump handling though.

Instead of going to 5000 in the diff I would definitely try the ball diff.

We run the ball diff 90% of the time on all types of surfaces

Bent
So, what makes it good is not the actual shocks in the rear, it's the fact that the rear droop has been reduced? Makes sense. The car is awesome the way it is setup now.

As for the ball diff, it is a bit of a mystery to me right now. No instructions how to adjust or rebuild. I'll wait until more information is available. I've been following this thread and I realize I will need to dissamble it, put grease in it, rebuild it, break it in and adjust it before I can actually use it. I race nitro 1/8 so I have no idea about ball diffs.
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Old 12-28-2015, 11:00 AM   #761
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guys as far as running your 69 tooth spur im sure theres a way to make something ork that will be a direct drive unit you just need to use your imagination. if you want something bad enough theres always a way. someone somewhere is running this buggy in 17.5
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Old 12-28-2015, 11:02 AM   #762
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Originally Posted by J_Fitz View Post
So, what makes it good is not the actual shocks in the rear, it's the fact that the rear droop has been reduced? Makes sense. The car is awesome the way it is setup now.

As for the ball diff, it is a bit of a mystery to me right now. No instructions how to adjust or rebuild. I'll wait until more information is available. I've been following this thread and I realize I will need to dissamble it, put grease in it, rebuild it, break it in and adjust it before I can actually use it. I race nitro 1/8 so I have no idea about ball diffs.
There are some good youtube vids... Get yourself some Kyosho silicone grease some black grear, a snap ring pliers and take some pics as you disassemble it. Make sure clean the balls and rings and assemble everything without any contaminants. Also make sure to clean the diff nut and diff nut screw and put a liberal amount of lock tight on the diff nut... it shouldn't take more than 15 min to assemble it. Then take your time breaking it in.
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Old 12-28-2015, 11:04 AM   #763
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I know David Joor of Avid bought the car so I'd expect for Avid to have some parts lined up...
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Old 12-28-2015, 11:07 AM   #764
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K am I doing something wrong, to remove the transmission is 6 screws not 4? Swear it was advertised as 4 screws haha.
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Old 12-28-2015, 11:24 AM   #765
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K am I doing something wrong, to remove the transmission is 6 screws not 4? Swear it was advertised as 4 screws haha.
XB2 has always been 6 screws to remove diff, even on the prototypes.

Some have compared it to the XB4 though, which is 4

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