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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 12-20-2015, 09:42 PM   #616
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Originally Posted by suby723 View Post
Call rc America tomorrow and pre order it. You will get the first shipment and they are the first dealer to receive them. They don't process the payment until the car is shipped. I'm guessing the car should be available the first week of January.
Oh cool, I didn't know that. Thanks. I'm gna call there tomorrow.
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Old 12-21-2015, 05:40 AM   #617
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Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
Using a set of curved body scissors leaves a perfect edge, takes 4-5 seconds pr wheel and only require 1 operation to get them done.

We never run foams in Stagger type tires since they perform way better with no foams both on carpet and astro.

For other normal 2WD front tires we never remove the center rib as this stabilizes the tire and keep the foam in place and keep the tire more consistent.
On high grip surfaces we even glue the foam to the wheel for even better support and response

Bent
Bent,

Do you recommend gluing the tire to the rim in any way? These tires on a narrow Schumacher rim fit so tight, some at our track don't glue them at all. The sidewall is kind of a spring, and I've rarely seen them slip off while racing. Curious as to your experience.
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Old 12-21-2015, 05:51 AM   #618
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Bent,

Do you recommend gluing the tire to the rim in any way? These tires on a narrow Schumacher rim fit so tight, some at our track don't glue them at all. The sidewall is kind of a spring, and I've rarely seen them slip off while racing. Curious as to your experience.
I did that for a few months... Never bothered to glue them as they were very tight on the rim. That was until I went to a race with them...
Don't do like I did. Glue them. In a race they'll come off. A hard crash will undo them easily and trust me a little dab of glue will avoid you a DNF.
Even for practice I don't bother. I glue them. You don't need to be as thorough as the rear though. A few points is enough.
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Old 12-21-2015, 06:15 AM   #619
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I did that for a few months... Never bothered to glue them as they were very tight on the rim. That was until I went to a race with them...
Don't do like I did. Glue them. In a race they'll come off. A hard crash will undo them easily and trust me a little dab of glue will avoid you a DNF.
Even for practice I don't bother. I glue them. You don't need to be as thorough as the rear though. A few points is enough.
Seems like good advice, the wheels aren't that expensive anyway...
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Last edited by celt; 12-21-2015 at 06:37 AM.
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Old 12-21-2015, 07:19 AM   #620
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0 caster instead of 2. Move battery forward all the way or use yz2 foam spacers and use the thin one in the front. Take out all the limiters from the shocks. Lengthen the front camber link to the outside hole on the block.
Could you enlighten me on the shock limiters especially on the front shocks? I always had the impression that limiting the shock extension in turn limits the weight transfer to the rear and therefore giving you more steering.
I had the same problem with 180 turns and some of the guys at the track told me to remove all the limiters and it gave me more steering! I'm so confused.
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Old 12-21-2015, 08:06 AM   #621
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I did that for a few months... Never bothered to glue them as they were very tight on the rim. That was until I went to a race with them...
Don't do like I did. Glue them. In a race they'll come off. A hard crash will undo them easily and trust me a little dab of glue will avoid you a DNF.
Even for practice I don't bother. I glue them. You don't need to be as thorough as the rear though. A few points is enough.
Does make for a good show when someone's tire comes off mid-race... I've been there and it was one of the cooler ways to DNF. When I ran low-grip carpet I found that unglued fronts had a little less roll stiffness and hurt my handling, but it didn't matter when running foamless. If you're running staggers, you're going for that low-stiffness feel anyway. Do what I did; buy a pair of wheels and foams, then test out all the combinations of tire and foam before you glue them up.

In other news, I learned that an XB2 can traction roll. My first race the grip was so high that I was lifting the inside rear into every corner and working to keep the inside wheels on the ground the whole way through. It was definitely faster in, but mid-corner it was exactly the same as all the 22s and B5Ms. I expected my purpose-built low cg rig to be more impressive in that regard. Second race, the grip was way lower and the car just didn't seem to generate any grip. Moving shocks and increasing droop helped but it was never really there. Hopefully the stability will come with track time and a little tuning.
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Old 12-21-2015, 08:28 AM   #622
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Seems like good advice, the wheels aren't that expensive anyway...
Put them in a closed jar with 1/2 inch of acetone at the bottom and leave them for 48 hours. You'll remove the tires effortless and the wheel will be as good a new ready for a new set of tire.

It is spectacular when they come off in the middle of the race lol sometime you can finish the few last laps with them hanging on for dear life !
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Old 12-21-2015, 09:11 AM   #623
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Originally Posted by juicy74 View Post
Could you enlighten me on the shock limiters especially on the front shocks? I always had the impression that limiting the shock extension in turn limits the weight transfer to the rear and therefore giving you more steering.
I had the same problem with 180 turns and some of the guys at the track told me to remove all the limiters and it gave me more steering! I'm so confused.
He has an under steer issue, he would get more steering by taking out the limiters.
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Old 12-21-2015, 09:18 AM   #624
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can someone explain to me the reason for cutting the front rims? what is the purpose and benefit? why would you do this?
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Old 12-21-2015, 09:22 AM   #625
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can someone explain to me the reason for cutting the front rims? what is the purpose and benefit? why would you do this?
Carpet tires are narrow and don't use a foam like dirt tires. Trimming the rim down is an absolute must for mounting carpet tires properly. If you don't want to do all that, Schumacher makes premounts that are great.
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Old 12-21-2015, 09:39 AM   #626
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JConcepts also has narrow front wheels in the B5 offset.
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Old 12-21-2015, 09:42 AM   #627
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JConcepts also has narrow front wheels in the B5 offset.
Yep the b5 offset will work however it is a little off and will need a different offset hex. This was covered a few pages back.
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Old 12-21-2015, 09:51 AM   #628
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Yep the b5 offset will work however it is a little off and will need a different offset hex. This was covered a few pages back.
Any chance the info could be added to the first post. Would make things easier for those of us planning to ditch our B5Ms lol
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Old 12-21-2015, 10:04 AM   #629
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Originally Posted by Chris Peralta View Post
Instead of measuring the wheels I actually mounted the XRAY wheels on the car with no tires and measured it front and rear and then did the same with the JC wheels (No tires) I run on my AE car....

Xray wheels
Front width: 242 MM
Rear Width: 245 MM

JC Wheels
Front width: 245 MM
Rear width: 241 MM

I ordered the -.75 hex's for front and +1.5's for the rear that should get my car to 243.5 Front and 244 rear. I did not see +2's at all, but maybe I didn't search good enough.
This is the offset differences
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Old 12-21-2015, 10:07 AM   #630
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Originally Posted by suby723 View Post
0 caster instead of 2. Move battery forward all the way or use yz2 foam spacers and use the thin one in the front. Take out all the limiters from the shocks. Lengthen the front camber link to the outside hole on the block.
Quote:
Originally Posted by juicy74 View Post
Could you enlighten me on the shock limiters especially on the front shocks? I always had the impression that limiting the shock extension in turn limits the weight transfer to the rear and therefore giving you more steering.
I had the same problem with 180 turns and some of the guys at the track told me to remove all the limiters and it gave me more steering! I'm so confused.
Quote:
Originally Posted by suby723 View Post
He has an under steer issue, he would get more steering by taking out the limiters.

This is incorrect !

Removing shims inside front shocks will add droop to the front and thereby increase weight transfer to the rear on power = reduced on power steering out of corner.

Adding shims inside front shocks will reduce droop to the front and thereby decrease weight transfer to the rear on power = increased on power steering out of corner.

Removing shims inside rear shocks will add droop to the rear and thereby increase weight transfer to the front when braking = increase off power steering into corner.

Adding shims inside rear shocks will reduce droop to the rear and thereby decrease weight transfer to the front when braking = reduced off power steering coming into corner.

0 degree caster inserts will give more steering off power, not on power.

Using option 0 or 1 carbon steering extenders will improve mid and on power steering (ball stud closer to wheel).

Going to 5000cst instead of 3000cst wil also add on power steering.

Bent
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Last edited by BentKa; 12-21-2015 at 10:54 AM.
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