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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 02-02-2017, 03:57 PM   #4501
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I am having a problem in in the large sweeper I come into a tight uturn. I feel like I have to come almost to a stop to do that tight of a turn. So I am guessing that would be off power turn in steering? Sorry! I am new

Last edited by TheYellowDart; 02-02-2017 at 09:11 PM.
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Old 02-02-2017, 07:34 PM   #4502
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What is everyone's opinion on running the rears shocks on the rear of the arms? Looking for a bit more traction but don't wanna lose the rotation the car has
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Old 02-02-2017, 08:18 PM   #4503
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Anyone know where to get an adjustable battery strap for the XB2 CE? Looking to get rid of the foam spacers. I know Exotek makes one but it's been out of stock for a while.
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Old 02-03-2017, 12:01 AM   #4504
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheYellowDart View Post
Yes on the gear diff, I am totally stock from the kit, first buggy ever. The gear oil is 5000cst. Should I buy a ball diff for it?

The carpet is green outdoor carpet that you can get at local hardware stores. I have stagger in front and mini pins in the rear, they seem to bite well and turn okay without traction rolling. I wouldn't mind tighter turning though.

My shock oil is from the kit at 500csr in the front and 400csr in the rear, both at 0% rebound (as close as I could get to it, it still maybe goes 10% or so)

My shocks are 1.5mm 2 hole in front and 1.7mm 2 hole in rear.
If you are going to run carpet/high bite i would recommend Malin Karlsen's set up from the Xray site. Its what she has been running at eos. Its a great place to start and you'll see far better results than trying to over think what may or may not work and the parts if needed are available from rc america. Did that sound like a commercial? if so im sorry.
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Old 02-03-2017, 12:10 AM   #4505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony montana View Post
What is everyone's opinion on running the rears shocks on the rear of the arms? Looking for a bit more traction but don't wanna lose the rotation the car has
The shocks on front definitely give the rotation and the shocks on the rear are a good way to get traction. From what i could see from the Reedy race the shocks were in front and they were using ball diffs in the 3 gear laydown for more traction. Have you tried the CF chassis? If not that might be something to try. Ty was using the aluminum chassis and soft suspension. Malin was running the cf chassis. Both had the shocks in front.
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Old 02-03-2017, 12:38 AM   #4506
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheYellowDart View Post
Yes on the gear diff, I am totally stock from the kit, first buggy ever. The gear oil is 5000cst. Should I buy a ball diff for it?

The carpet is green outdoor carpet that you can get at local hardware stores. I have stagger in front and mini pins in the rear, they seem to bite well and turn okay without traction rolling. I wouldn't mind tighter turning though.

My shock oil is from the kit at 500csr in the front and 400csr in the rear, both at 0% rebound (as close as I could get to it, it still maybe goes 10% or so)

My shocks are 1.5mm 2 hole in front and 1.7mm 2 hole in rear.
Do you mean green astro turf or a green nylon office carpet?

Mini pin 2 in the rear pretty much makes every buggy push. You can try
Mini darts as they have less side bite than mini pin 2.

Last edited by JsK; 02-04-2017 at 01:32 AM.
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Old 02-03-2017, 06:01 AM   #4507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by symmetricon View Post
Are you running the gear diff? I believe most stock racers run a slipper eliminator. I don't believe any weight is needed since it looks like your running on carpet? Play around with battery placement. Are you running 1.6x2 front and 1.7x2 pistons rear in the shocks?
With kit parts and adding a slipper eliminator for 1500 gram rule I had to still add almost 34 grams to the car to meet weight. Which hudy aluminum servo horn is the correct one for the xb2? I see one has 2 holes and one has 3 holes?
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Old 02-03-2017, 06:27 AM   #4508
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scr8pn4205 View Post
With kit parts and adding a slipper eliminator for 1500 gram rule I had to still add almost 34 grams to the car to meet weight. Which hudy aluminum servo horn is the correct one for the xb2? I see one has 2 holes and one has 3 holes?
Are you using a low profile/lightweight shorty pack? I'd buy some adhesive weights to get the weight placement where you want before I'd commit to the brass kickup, but that all depends on track conditions. My track can get a bit loose so I wouldn't want the brass kickup but If i raced on carpet/turf then it would be a good buy. I'm not sure about the servo horns, I'm using what my local shop had.
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Old 02-03-2017, 06:45 AM   #4509
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Quote:
Originally Posted by symmetricon View Post
Are you using a low profile/lightweight shorty pack? I'd buy some adhesive weights to get the weight placement where you want before I'd commit to the brass kickup, but that all depends on track conditions. My track can get a bit loose so I wouldn't want the brass kickup but If i raced on carpet/turf then it would be a good buy. I'm not sure about the servo horns, I'm using what my local shop had.
SMC shorty lipo not low profile. Using standard size servo also. I added stick on lead as I like the feel without the brass kickup plate. What is the weight of the brass kickup vs alum kickup? I may just run plastic kickup and add brass under battery as I feel to much weight up front plants the rear of this car harder than it already does on acceleration
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Old 02-03-2017, 06:49 AM   #4510
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scr8pn4205 View Post
SMC shorty lipo not low profile. Using standard size servo also. I added stick on lead as I like the feel without the brass kickup plate. What is the weight of the brass kickup vs alum kickup? I may just run plastic kickup and add brass under battery as I feel to much weight up front plants the rear of this car harder than it already does on acceleration
According to the description on AMAIN, the brass kickup adds 46 grams. I have the aluminum kickup and I think the weigh difference between the plastic and aluminum is very little.
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Old 02-03-2017, 06:57 AM   #4511
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293497 is the hudy servo horn i am using. You need a 2mm shim on the stud to the horn. Use the top hole.
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Old 02-03-2017, 07:11 AM   #4512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JsK View Post
Do you mean green astro turf or a green nylon office carpet?

Mini pin 2 in the rear pretty much makes every buggy push. You can try
Mini darts as tbey have less side biye than mini pin 2.
It is green outdoor carpet and they have it listed as astro turf. I remember it from my grandmas gazebo - haha.

http://www.windycityrc.com/the-tracksclasses.html
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Old 02-03-2017, 08:05 AM   #4513
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In RC that's referred to as astro. From my IM days in college, I remember real astro as a lot more shaggy.

I like the mini darts on "astro." They seem to make my car more lively compared to the mini pins.
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Old 02-03-2017, 10:23 AM   #4514
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Thanks for all the info, I will change my setup. Is everyone running the front wing as well?
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Old 02-03-2017, 11:13 PM   #4515
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
lower rear roll center, decreases rear grip on corner exit.. the higher the roll center, the more grip you have at corner exit.

lowering the inner camber link, on the tower, raises the roll center, and raising the inner link lowers the rear roll center.

its opposite on the outer. higher shims outside.. higher roll center, less shims lower roll center.

this will blow your mind.. on the lower arm.. its backwards.. inner pin, raised, raises roll center, outer pin raised lowers roll center.
I was thinking about what you said here and it was backwards from what I have alwaysThought before. I thought adding shims on the inner camber link mount in the back would lower roll center and give more grip. What you are saying is use less shims at the inner and add shims under the ballstud on the outer rear hub Will give more grip? This video is what I watched way back and have been going by. I just want to make sure I am adding shims in the right places.
Also at the end of you statement you mention lower arm inner and outer "pin". What pins are you referring to? The hinge pin? Like if I have the pills facing down that would give me more grip correct? The way I read your post is if they are facing up it would give me more grip.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=tWdRQaz_Xq8
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Last edited by Slapjack; 02-04-2017 at 02:13 PM.
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