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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 12-09-2015, 09:55 PM   #436
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Are you running gear Diff or ball on the high bite clay?

Last edited by Catzilla; 12-09-2015 at 09:55 PM. Reason: Miss spell
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Old 12-10-2015, 12:19 AM   #437
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Franzchise View Post
I ordered the servo mounts and some rear uprights for my xb4. Im not sure if they will fit on my xb2. I believe they are compatible.
The XB4 rear uprights have a completely different geometry compared to the XB2 uprights.

They will physically fit but will seriously mess up the handling of your XB2 as the geometry will be way off.

Just a friendly word of advice

Bent
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Old 12-10-2015, 12:22 AM   #438
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suby723 View Post
Hey Bent quick question. I'm building my xb2 and I'm starting out with your setup from the hudy track. Just wondering what your running for your shock lengths? Can't wait to get this car on the track! Any idea of when the brass kick up and 50g battery weight will be out? Thanks!
We're running them with 0 limiters inside the shocks and the rod ends all the way on.
Haven't measured the length….sorry.

I don't have a date no, but they are in line for production. So it's only a question of production capacity at the moment

Dirt Edition have priority at the moment

Bent
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Old 12-10-2015, 04:17 AM   #439
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
We're running them with 0 limiters inside the shocks and the rod ends all the way on.
Haven't measured the length….sorry.
Bent
I will try this instead of the stock setup (with 1mm downstop limiter and rod end unscrewed 1-1,5mm)
as the stock setup allows the piston to suck air in when the shock is fully compressed.

Thanks Bent!


Best Regards
Morgan
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Old 12-10-2015, 05:08 AM   #440
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moleman View Post
I will try this instead of the stock setup (with 1mm downstop limiter and rod end unscrewed 1-1,5mm)
as the stock setup allows the piston to suck air in when the shock is fully compressed.

Thanks Bent!


Best Regards
Morgan
We also run 3mm upstop shims on the outside front and rear.

Bent
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Old 12-10-2015, 05:34 AM   #441
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
We also run 3mm upstop shims on the outside front and rear.

Bent

Won't the front shocks bottom out before the chassis with 3mm upstop and fully tightened rod ends?
I've always had that as a reference to how much uptravel you should have. ie. chassis should bottom out before shocks.


/Morgan

Last edited by moleman; 12-10-2015 at 05:50 AM.
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Old 12-10-2015, 06:06 AM   #442
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
The XB4 rear uprights have a completely different geometry compared to the XB2 uprights.

They will physically fit but will seriously mess up the handling of your XB2 as the geometry will be way off.

Just a friendly word of advice

Bent
haha thanks a lot. Good thing you are on these forums.

thanks a lot
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Old 12-10-2015, 06:07 AM   #443
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
We're running them with 0 limiters inside the shocks and the rod ends all the way on.
Haven't measured the length….sorry.

I don't have a date no, but they are in line for production. So it's only a question of production capacity at the moment

Dirt Edition have priority at the moment

Bent
Thank you for the response Bent. I built my shocks the way you described so I should be good to go. I'm extremely pleased with the xb2, now I just need to get it on the track!
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Old 12-10-2015, 06:07 AM   #444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moleman View Post
Won't the front shocks bottom out before the chassis with 3mm upstop and fully tightened rod ends?
I've always had that as a reference to how much uptravel you should have. ie. chassis should bottom out before shocks.


/Morgan
No they won't.

The use of 3mm upstop shims is to keep the driveshafts from hitting the outdrives on full suspension travel.

Front shims on the 2WD is used to keep it balanced front to rear.

Bent
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Old 12-10-2015, 06:08 AM   #445
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Franzchise View Post
haha thanks a lot. Good thing you are on these forums.

thanks a lot
Quote:
Originally Posted by suby723 View Post
Thank you for the response Bent. I built my shocks the way you described so I should be good to go. I'm extremely pleased with the xb2, now I just need to get it on the track!
No problem guys

Bent
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Old 12-10-2015, 06:38 AM   #446
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
No they won't.

The use of 3mm upstop shims is to keep the driveshafts from hitting the outdrives on full suspension travel.

Front shims on the 2WD is used to keep it balanced front to rear.

Bent

Sorry to argue with you Bent, but why does the manual say 2mm upstop front and 3mm rear
if 3mm both front and rear makes the car balanced?


/Morgan
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Old 12-10-2015, 06:52 AM   #447
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moleman View Post
Sorry to argue with you Bent, but why does the manual say 2mm upstop front and 3mm rear
if 3mm both front and rear makes the car balanced?


/Morgan
We feel the car is better balanced with the setup we run

But feel free to use whatever you feel gives the best result

Bent
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Old 12-10-2015, 06:58 AM   #448
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
We feel the car is better balanced with the setup we run

But feel free to use whatever you feel gives the best result

Bent

Gotcha

Thanks Bent, appreciate all your help!
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Old 12-10-2015, 07:09 AM   #449
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Catzilla View Post
Are you running gear Diff or ball on the high bite clay?
Gear diff, I tried the ball diff but it wasn't as good.

Also interesting tidbit, the gear diff is about 8 grams lighter than the ball diff.
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Old 12-10-2015, 07:16 AM   #450
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seth556 View Post
Raced mine for the first time today. Car is super good on high bite clay, we run clay slicks and the car had super traction, way more than I was expecting. I ended up stiffening up the springs and oil to decrease weight transfer. Car still needs a few small tweaks because I'm diffing out getting on the power in a few sections, but otherwise it's perfect. Jumps great, rotates well, great forward bite, very predictable.
What 2wd were you driving previously?
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