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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 01-16-2017, 06:16 PM   #4396
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Quote:
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I just messaged you on Facebork, didn't know If I could post Tessman's setup since I haven't seen i posted outside of the RCA group...

He posted a setup on his facebook page a few days ago. I dont know if its the same as the RCA setup we got.
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Old 01-16-2017, 08:44 PM   #4397
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you guys know the first rule about fight club?
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Old 01-16-2017, 08:50 PM   #4398
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you guys know the first rule about fight club?
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Old 01-16-2017, 09:02 PM   #4399
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Don't understand this. Does this mean more steering at high speeds,as in 3/4 throttle sweepers? For cornering my xb2's both had way more steering with the long bushing on top. This is for lower speed turns all the way thru to getting on the gas on power. Couple others at my track too. Just me?

Quote:
Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
first thing to try.. in the front steering knuckles.. the bushings.. put the longer bushing on the bottom.. should gain alot of steering that way.
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Old 01-16-2017, 09:15 PM   #4400
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Don't understand this. Does this mean more steering at high speeds,as in 3/4 throttle sweepers? For cornering my xb2's both had way more steering with the long bushing on top. This is for lower speed turns all the way thru to getting on the gas on power. Couple others at my track too. Just me?
The longer bushings at the bottom give more mid-exit to exit steering and calm down the turn in... it's the same thing with the rb6. Plenty of other setup changes can be made to regain the turn in lost with the bushing change...
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Old 01-17-2017, 06:21 AM   #4401
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Originally Posted by punkracer24 View Post
you guys know the first rule about fight club?
are you suggesting that there are "secret" setups out there, i also saw ty's setup, and thought it was entirely too soft...
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Old 01-17-2017, 06:49 AM   #4402
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are you suggesting that there are "secret" setups out there, i also saw ty's setup, and thought it was entirely too soft...
No, he was joking. I've tried the setup except i was using different pistons and the car handles great with his setup. I just wasn't aware if that was posted publicly.

Here it is for all those curious.
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...setup=xb2_2016
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Old 01-17-2017, 09:13 AM   #4403
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Originally Posted by Matt M. View Post
are you suggesting that there are "secret" setups out there, i also saw ty's setup, and thought it was entirely too soft...
There's only one setup, and yes, it seems super soft but apparently that's actually how he runs it.
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Old 01-17-2017, 09:38 AM   #4404
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt M. View Post
are you suggesting that there are "secret" setups out there, i also saw ty's setup, and thought it was entirely too soft...
Always, there's the setup that's on the sheet and the one that's on the car... for instance, i always set a base ride height and then adjust it on the track to fine tune steering/traction balance before the race, so final ride height could be a mm or more different from whats on paper
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Old 01-17-2017, 09:54 AM   #4405
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt M. View Post
are you suggesting that there are "secret" setups out there, i also saw ty's setup, and thought it was entirely too soft...
probably due to his style of driving and carry over from the D216 he drove in a rather plush config compared to other cars. D216 is rather extreme in design and different compared to other cars. TLR, YOK, XB, AE, etc differences are few allowing alot to be shared.
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Old 01-17-2017, 10:18 AM   #4406
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.
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Old 01-17-2017, 10:21 AM   #4407
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the shock oil is a base.. if you feel it should be lighter.. by all means.. go lighter.. in the end.. everyone has different driving styles.. and different setups.. go put the car on the track.. get some base lap times.. make changes.. and run again.. see if its faster.. or not..
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Old 01-17-2017, 04:48 PM   #4408
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Hey Guys, I'm in! My wife got me the 2017 xb2 carpet kit for my birthday. The guys run indoor on green outdoor carpet you would normally see in a gazebo and they run with no compound.

I am thinking this will be either medium or low traction? I have a sc5m sc and it will do traction rolls unless you run 32.5k oils or higher in the shocks.

In my stadium truck I run mini pins in the back and stagger ribs in the front. Should I run the same on my buggy? Thanks and excited to join the club!
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Old 01-17-2017, 09:44 PM   #4409
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I need some help with my shocks. I cannot assemble these things without getting tons of tiny air bubbles in them. In my xb4 they are perfect but when With the xb2 I'm getting a lot of tiny bubbles even just after moving the shaft up and down by hand a dozen times. Should I replace the orings in the bottom of the shock body or something?
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Old 01-17-2017, 09:49 PM   #4410
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I need some help with my shocks. I cannot assemble these things without getting tons of tiny air bubbles in them. In my xb4 they are perfect but when With the xb2 I'm getting a lot of tiny bubbles even just after moving the shaft up and down by hand a dozen times. Should I replace the orings in the bottom of the shock body or something?
They are emulsion shocks and are supposed to have air in them. And unless you're installing bladders in your XB4 shock they are emulsion as well.

http://www.rcdriver.com/understandin...ladder-shocks/
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