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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 12-26-2016, 10:35 PM   #4291
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
The shocks go on the rear of the tower.. however. Depends on grip level. The x-ray carbon chassis is really good to add grip. U will need to buy weights due to the weight difference. Do you have the 17 car?
No I have the 16 at the moment.
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Old 12-26-2016, 10:39 PM   #4292
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Medium Grip:

- shocks on rear of arm
- brass RF hanger (exotek is heavier but X-ray will do but less weight and expensive
- can also add sticky weight under gearbox
- lay shock down inner hole on rear shock tower if not getting enough traction. That helps a lot at the expense of rotation
- pills located facing down for lower roll center
- X-ray carbon chassis helps but only the X-ray version. Exotek is stiffer than stock
- can take a few screws out if the waterfall for extra flex and tape your battery in remove battery strap.


I'd start with the brass RF hanger, then laying shock down, then weight under gearbox followed by the rest. Always a trade off as each will compromise steering
Awesome. Thanks... what about the gearbox? What is best for clay and carpet? 3 gear or 4?

This is the hanger I'd want?
https://www.amainhobbies.com/exotek-...xo1659/p505844

Also shock package... I am running box setup. Should I maybe run the schelle 1.6+1.1 front and rear? If so what springs and oil with those?

And the last thing is front tires. I am running dirt webs and chainlink rears. What front should I run? Do people run the Schumacher staggers on clay? I ran them on carpet before
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Last edited by Slapjack; 12-26-2016 at 10:51 PM.
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Old 12-26-2016, 11:48 PM   #4293
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3 gear is better with slightly less grip but much better cornering and braking. Not sure about that hanger specifically. I like the weight. I bought the X-ray version brass RF and RR hanger both as I got a great deal on them. They are both about 15 or so grams. But - very expensive retail (want to say $40 each which I would never pay). Therefore suggest the exotek although I understand there is some slop in those. I'd try it out though. Not spending $80 on hangers...

Did not like the 1.6 1.1 4 hole pistons at all. Loved them in the xb4 though. 1.6 and 1.7 schelle/avid are great.

I'd just match your fronts with rears. I view electrons/dirtwebs/chainlinks as all similar treads. If mixed match the break in as they come in at different times




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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapjack View Post
Awesome. Thanks... what about the gearbox? What is best for clay and carpet? 3 gear or 4?

This is the hanger I'd want?
https://www.amainhobbies.com/exotek-...xo1659/p505844

Also shock package... I am running box setup. Should I maybe run the schelle 1.6+1.1 front and rear? If so what springs and oil with those?

And the last thing is front tires. I am running dirt webs and chainlink rears. What front should I run? Do people run the Schumacher staggers on clay? I ran them on carpet before
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Old 12-27-2016, 06:06 AM   #4294
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For a boosted 17.5 motor setup, will factory 81 tooth spur and a 23 tooth pinion be a good starting point for gearing?

Small, technical, indoor, astro track, high grip.
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Old 12-27-2016, 06:40 AM   #4295
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Does anyone know if the Xray spur for their slipper eliminator mount will fit the Exotek mount. The bolt pattern looks to be the same.
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Old 12-27-2016, 07:01 AM   #4296
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For clay are people running the front tires at the width they come in at or cut them behind the first rib to make them narrow? Will any tire work with a narrow wheel or are there specific tires to pair the narrow wheel with?

And what diameter are the xray wheels? Are they standard 2.2 or 2.4/60mm?
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Old 12-27-2016, 07:55 AM   #4297
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On clay you will not need to cut down the fronts. If you are running the AKA Chainlink then I would recommend getting the AKA Typo fronts. They are an Evo style tire so you would need to buy the AKA Evo front rim for the AE/Kyo.

The stock Xray wheels are standard 2.2.
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Old 12-27-2016, 10:33 AM   #4298
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I find the 3 gear laydown better in every way over th3 4 gear, better steering and rear grip imo...
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Old 12-27-2016, 10:42 AM   #4299
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Anyone happen to have the MM measurements of the tie rod length on their short front and rear links handy or in a setup posted? Looking for max steering on an extremely tight and technical hi bite track. I ask as my buggy is at the track. I plan to pick it up 5 mins before a race and have 4 turnbuckles at home I can prepare in advance. I should allow myself to practice first with it but am aloe 100 percent certain I need more turning and will not have adequate time to change/measure upon picking up before a club race. Thx!!!
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Old 12-27-2016, 11:16 AM   #4300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Werner View Post
On clay you will not need to cut down the fronts. If you are running the AKA Chainlink then I would recommend getting the AKA Typo fronts. They are an Evo style tire so you would need to buy the AKA Evo front rim for the AE/Kyo.

The stock Xray wheels are standard 2.2.
Thanks for the tip... Would I not be able to mount the typo on a 60mm JC front wheel?
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Old 12-27-2016, 12:44 PM   #4301
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As long as it has the Evo/Eight Scale type bead on the wheel you should be able to run the JC wheels. I saw them at our hobby shop and they should work fine.
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Old 12-27-2016, 02:56 PM   #4302
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Have anyone used the CE edition on low/medium clay? Just interested how it works with the laydown.
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Old 12-27-2016, 10:23 PM   #4303
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwiazbro View Post
Have anyone used the CE edition on low/medium clay? Just interested how it works with the laydown.
That is what I was getting info on over the past couple pages. Like everyone says these cars are so tunable the carpet car will work fine on clay with a few minor tweaks. I will post my results once I get everything setup and give it a try at my first race on clay.
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Old 12-28-2016, 07:59 AM   #4304
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwiazbro View Post
Have anyone used the CE edition on low/medium clay? Just interested how it works with the laydown.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapjack View Post
That is what I was getting info on over the past couple pages. Like everyone says these cars are so tunable the carpet car will work fine on clay with a few minor tweaks. I will post my results once I get everything setup and give it a try at my first race on clay.
I beleive the car will work well but I would definitely suggest the RF brass arm hangar and maybe the battery weight as well.

After you get on the track play with the rear shock position whether its on the front or rear... I typically still run them on the rear with the CE car.
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Old 12-29-2016, 03:01 AM   #4305
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I hate to say this, but as I build my d216, I kind of regret buying my xb2. The d216 is soo nicely done. I hope track time with both will tell me more about which platform is the better one. Anyone here have both?
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