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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 12-19-2016, 09:19 PM   #4276
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Yeah, 3 gear laydown. 100 percent shocks on front. Wouldn't run any other way for a tight track like mine. I didn't move to the inner hole on the arm yet, as the rear already skipped around a bit when I raised the rear hinge pin/roll center. I had that experience of the rear breaking loose with the inner hole on the rear arm previously. A lot of my break in traction on the bumps could be a result of the gear diff. I'll put the ball diff back in and try some of These suggestions as I'll have more grip. I must say the gear diff is awesome especially on sweepers when the grip is high enough on clay

Quote:
Originally Posted by symmetricon View Post
Have you tried putting your rear lower shock location to the 1 position? Also, the rear sway-bar kit would definitely help with steering. Sorry if I missed this but are you currently running 3 gear laydown, if so are your rear shocks mounter front or rear?
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Old 12-20-2016, 05:37 AM   #4277
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Yeah, 3 gear laydown. 100 percent shocks on front. Wouldn't run any other way for a tight track like mine. I didn't move to the inner hole on the arm yet, as the rear already skipped around a bit when I raised the rear hinge pin/roll center. I had that experience of the rear breaking loose with the inner hole on the rear arm previously. A lot of my break in traction on the bumps could be a result of the gear diff. I'll put the ball diff back in and try some of These suggestions as I'll have more grip. I must say the gear diff is awesome especially on sweepers when the grip is high enough on clay
You may also want to try some different shock pistons, it sounds like your cars suspension is allowing the car to bounce around a bit. I was running 1.6/1.7 and with recommendation from a friend, i am now running 1.2x4/1.25x4 pistons and the seems to have settled the car a good bit. Another fellow Xray driver made the switch before me and had the same experience as I have had.
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Last edited by symmetricon; 12-20-2016 at 05:48 AM.
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Old 12-20-2016, 06:20 AM   #4278
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Here is my latest setup, its still a work in progress but its by far the best my car has felt, and is imo better than any other 2wd I've owned...


I'll be at the track the Wednesday to race and will try some more things out.
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Old 12-20-2016, 06:47 AM   #4279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
I haven't tried shortening the front links yet... Hmm. Tried the rear without the front a long time ago. Liked the turn in but buggy seemed to have strange flow to the whole range of the turn, and also lost a little traction. albeit this was with the dirt edition. I love them short on the front of another buggy. Felt a lot more locked in. Regarding toe, I felt 3 was the minimum with the bumps recently on my track... thx for the suggestion! I almost sold the buggy before adding the zero slot ackerman arms which gave me just enough to keep, given the buggy was so easy to drive. Lap times are fine in qualifying heats, but in races there are are few tight corners where i can get taken on the inside line. Regarding the front links, is it preblematic to have short links on front but longer links on the rear? thx sir
can you post a better image of your setup?

my xb2 has tons of steering, it's my xb4 that im having the exact same steering issue you're having with the xb2. but on my xb4 it's because i set it up to have a ton more rear grip since switching to 1m cst center diff oil it made my rear get a lot more power so i had to change the car and give it more rear grip, im still working on getting the perfect amount of steering without sacrificing the rear grip, im slowly getting there.

have you tried raising the front inner camber link and using the medium front bulkhead and under tray plastics? try running more front camber i run 3 and my tires wear down the middle. getting the front to roll a tad more and bite with a good contact patch really helps mid corner steering. and then make sure your front shocks are the right spring and oil setup relative to the rear. I run 2 dot springs in front with 500cst oil and 1 dot in the rear with 400 cst

also make sure your servo horn is the correct size and make sure your steering link ball stud connected to the servo horn and the steering plate isn't hitting the underside of the bulkhead.

other than that as others have suggested you will have to start playing wit the rear and take some traction away there.

btw how come you went with the 0 slot ackermann plates and not the 1. i still run the 2's but i think im going to get 1's. is your track extremely tight?
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Old 12-20-2016, 09:25 AM   #4280
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My tracks pretty tight. 16 second lap times usually. High bite clay. Just had th 0 slot by accident actually.still not quiet enough steering so I would still get those instead of the 1. Taking a MM out of the front camber link gave me more steering. I may further shorten the front camber link for more camber gain or perhaps running a lot of camber as you suggested is a good start. Thx! bTW - I have the same issue in my xb4 too but haven't really played with setup much and was going to revert back to 9 degree caster hubs...
Quote:
Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
can you post a better image of your setup?

my xb2 has tons of steering, it's my xb4 that im having the exact same steering issue you're having with the xb2. but on my xb4 it's because i set it up to have a ton more rear grip since switching to 1m cst center diff oil it made my rear get a lot more power so i had to change the car and give it more rear grip, im still working on getting the perfect amount of steering without sacrificing the rear grip, im slowly getting there.

have you tried raising the front inner camber link and using the medium front bulkhead and under tray plastics? try running more front camber i run 3 and my tires wear down the middle. getting the front to roll a tad more and bite with a good contact patch really helps mid corner steering. and then make sure your front shocks are the right spring and oil setup relative to the rear. I run 2 dot springs in front with 500cst oil and 1 dot in the rear with 400 cst

also make sure your servo horn is the correct size and make sure your steering link ball stud connected to the servo horn and the steering plate isn't hitting the underside of the bulkhead.

other than that as others have suggested you will have to start playing wit the rear and take some traction away there.

btw how come you went with the 0 slot ackermann plates and not the 1. i still run the 2's but i think im going to get 1's. is your track extremely tight?
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Old 12-20-2016, 11:05 AM   #4281
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will a b6 spur gear work on the xb2, helping a friend for stock.
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Old 12-21-2016, 10:58 AM   #4282
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not sure if this will work or not, but here is my setup for the TISOC race here at Thunder RC Raceway. FB-Link
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Last edited by RedBMaster; 12-21-2016 at 12:32 PM.
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Old 12-21-2016, 12:35 PM   #4283
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Don't have fbi, can't see..
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Old 12-21-2016, 02:42 PM   #4284
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Quote:
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Don't have fbi, can't see..
Well the PDF is double what's allowed here, and when I convert it to an image its impossible to read half the text. Maybe someone from Petit RC will come along and upload to their site for you...
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Old 12-22-2016, 03:24 PM   #4285
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B44 View Post
will a b6 spur gear work on the xb2, helping a friend for stock.
xray gears are for 3 pad slipper system, AE B6 uses 2. racers have used schelle slippers systems with MIP top shafts (see WIKI at front). it may be possible to do the same with the AE 2 disk system in place of the schelle?


if he has a exotek slipper eliminator for xray, you are able to use 69 and 72 spurs like kimbrough. exotek and similar ones that use the 3 screw pattern mounting like AE, TLR, etc cars use in spec motor classes

not sure on the xray eliminator screw pattern?
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Old 12-25-2016, 04:56 PM   #4286
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Uploaded setup picture as PDF File too big. Thx!
Try lowering and shortening your rear camber links, that livened up my car quite a bit.
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Old 12-26-2016, 08:10 PM   #4287
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Looking for info on running my ce on clay....
if I am running on med grip clay would I want the shocks on the front of the rear tower or on the backside?
Also would the carbon chasis help with grip compared to the alum chasis?
I'm trying to run my carpet car on clay without spending hundreds to convert the entire thing. So what would be the best couple things to swap over? Like if I wanted to just put the plastic towers on can I do that or do I more or less need to do a complete conversion?
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Old 12-26-2016, 08:17 PM   #4288
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapjack View Post
Looking for info on running my ce on clay....
if I am running on med grip clay would I want the shocks on the front of the rear tower or on the backside?
Also would the carbon chasis help with grip compared to the alum chasis?
I'm trying to run my carpet car on clay without spending hundreds to convert the entire thing. So what would be the best couple things to swap over? Like if I wanted to just put the plastic towers on can I do that or do I more or less need to do a complete conversion?
The shocks go on the rear of the tower.. however. Depends on grip level. The x-ray carbon chassis is really good to add grip. U will need to buy weights due to the weight difference. Do you have the 17 car?
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Old 12-26-2016, 08:21 PM   #4289
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Also.. use your carbon towers. No need to use the dirt towers on clay.
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Old 12-26-2016, 08:28 PM   #4290
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Medium Grip:

- shocks on rear of arm
- brass RF hanger (exotek is heavier but X-ray will do but less weight and expensive
- can also add sticky weight under gearbox
- lay shock down inner hole on rear shock tower if not getting enough traction. That helps a lot at the expense of rotation
- pills located facing down for lower roll center
- X-ray carbon chassis helps but only the X-ray version. Exotek is stiffer than stock
- can take a few screws out if the waterfall for extra flex and tape your battery in remove battery strap.


I'd start with the brass RF hanger, then laying shock down, then weight under gearbox followed by the rest. Always a trade off as each will compromise steering


Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapjack View Post
Looking for info on running my ce on clay....
if I am running on med grip clay would I want the shocks on the front of the rear tower or on the backside?
Also would the carbon chasis help with grip compared to the alum chasis?
I'm trying to run my carpet car on clay without spending hundreds to convert the entire thing. So what would be the best couple things to swap over? Like if I wanted to just put the plastic towers on can I do that or do I more or less need to do a complete conversion?
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