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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 12-08-2016, 01:56 PM   #4186
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclebrkr View Post
Is there a table that someone has developed that would tell you gearing ratio for different track configurations? 32/69 seems tall, this gearing would be good for top speed, not a tight track, where you would need power out of the corners...
not that i have on tap. but 32/69 is def geared towards speed. with a 2wd buggy you don't need much down low, with stock motors your wide open 90% of the time anyway. in my experience anything from 29-33/69 work well. i dont personally run stock but i have before and i have a friend who runs it with the xb2. it seems on our medium track with tight corners but some long straights 31-32 is the sweet spot.
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Old 12-08-2016, 02:00 PM   #4187
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I'll have to try that again. As i become a better driver, this gearing will probably help (31-32/69)
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Old 12-08-2016, 02:10 PM   #4188
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I'll have to try that again. As i become a better driver, this gearing will probably help (31-32/69)
yeah absolutely man, for one 1 every motor and setup is different so your temperature/driving style may only allow for 30-31. you just have to feel it out and do what's best for you but you certainly have room to get some more speed out of that motor. what are your temps, currently? and are you using a fan or no? i recommend a fan for all stock motors typically.
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Old 12-08-2016, 02:41 PM   #4189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
yeah absolutely man, for one 1 every motor and setup is different so your temperature/driving style may only allow for 30-31. you just have to feel it out and do what's best for you but you certainly have room to get some more speed out of that motor. what are your temps, currently? and are you using a fan or no? i recommend a fan for all stock motors typically.
Exactly what lyons said, he has some good info on this xb2 thread. I do run a wtf fan on mine, and I do run mine very hard in the corners, so like he said everyone's driving style has an affect on allowable gearing.
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Old 12-08-2016, 02:53 PM   #4190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
yeah absolutely man, for one 1 every motor and setup is different so your temperature/driving style may only allow for 30-31. you just have to feel it out and do what's best for you but you certainly have room to get some more speed out of that motor. what are your temps, currently? and are you using a fan or no? i recommend a fan for all stock motors typically.
Yes, i do run a WTF fan on both the XB2 and XB4. As i learn to carry more corner speed, I'll be able to increase gearing.
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Old 12-08-2016, 09:05 PM   #4191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclebrkr View Post
In stock configuration (17.5), i run a 29/72 on a slipper eliminator. It all depends on how tight/short your track is....
12 second lap timesvt. I think it's 90 by 40.
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Old 12-08-2016, 09:09 PM   #4192
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The new fantom motor motors are amazing! It's 1 of the fastest motors I've ever run and I have piles of 17.5 motors. I have always set fastest laps untill I upgraded to a 2017 xb2 lol. Still trying to figure it out. But it's still one of the fastest.... I'm running 33/69 with fan and fantom motor..
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Old 12-09-2016, 01:01 AM   #4193
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No one has answered about the loose shock eyelets...

Am I the only one with this problem?
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Old 12-09-2016, 05:12 AM   #4194
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They should be nice and tight in my experience.
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Old 12-09-2016, 05:55 AM   #4195
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yeah my shock eyelets have always been perfect and i've had like 6 xray cars.
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Old 12-09-2016, 12:06 PM   #4196
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
yeah my shock eyelets have always been perfect and i've had like 6 xray cars.
Great. I called them, there was no answer. I'll see if they can replace them; the rest of the car is snug as a bug.

Installing the servo. I wonder what's the most efficient orientation for the horn.. or just straight up. It was very easy to remove the whole front end for this job. Great engineering..
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Old 12-09-2016, 12:08 PM   #4197
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Easy to work on!
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Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread-20161209_120728.jpg  
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Old 12-09-2016, 12:19 PM   #4198
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I am new in 1/10, what spare parts must have
for the xb2?
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Old 12-09-2016, 12:22 PM   #4199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rctru View Post
I am new in 1/10, what spare parts must have
for the xb2?
front arms
roll center holders (get alum)
ball cups

you rly dont need anything on this car but those are the only parts iv ever broke or worn out in over a year.
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Old 12-09-2016, 12:30 PM   #4200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
front arms
roll center holders (get alum)
ball cups

you rly dont need anything on this car but those are the only parts iv ever broke or worn out in over a year.
thanks, i am ordering right now
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