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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 11-17-2016, 07:00 PM   #4036
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Yes.
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Old 11-18-2016, 11:49 AM   #4037
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I'm switching to Xray on off-road since my sponsorship on on-road. I've picked up the'17 CE and the carbon chassis. Any other recommendations to get the CE working on med grip dirt off-road? What have people broken, so I can get a few spares? Also heard it was a good idea to get the longer shock bottoms, thoughts?
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Old 11-18-2016, 12:18 PM   #4038
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Make sure its the xray carbon, which i'm sure you did. Brass Hangers are key. For me, the long rod ends on the rear for low-medium grip worked well. I also preferred a lower roll center with the pills facing down. 3-4 degrees toe. I like the long bushing on the top on the front spindles, as I found this gave me a lot more steering. Also added 0 slot steering plates, as the ackerman added a lot of steering as well. Also only 1mm on the front tower. If you're not getting enough side bite moving the shocks in on the rear tower really helps but sacrifices rotation.
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Old 11-18-2016, 12:39 PM   #4039
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Make sure its the xray carbon, which i'm sure you did. Brass Hangers are key. For me, the long rod ends on the rear for low-medium grip worked well. I also preferred a lower roll center with the pills facing down. 3-4 degrees toe. I like the long bushing on the top on the front spindles, as I found this gave me a lot more steering. Also added 0 slot steering plates, as the ackerman added a lot of steering as well. Also only 1mm on the front tower. If you're not getting enough side bite moving the shocks in on the rear tower really helps but sacrifices rotation.
I think we're generally a bit too affixed on brass hangars. If I'm struggling for traction I'd rather go with the dirt 3 gear.
Spindles down should decrease steering on corner exit, so that's very interesting!

What do you mean only 1mm on the front tower? I didn't notice, but are there low roll center and high roll center parts for the DE and CE respectively?
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Old 11-18-2016, 02:18 PM   #4040
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You're losing 60g with the carbon chassis so the rf brass hanger is a good place to add some weight back. Had the bushing on the bottom of the spindle for months thinking more steering and flipped them and I got more steering. I liked only 1mm shin for the front tower camber link too. No addtl high or low roll center parts I'm aware of. However the exited rear aluminum camber link mount is -2mm
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Old 11-18-2016, 05:57 PM   #4041
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What Springs are you using on medium bite clay JAE? Also what size pinion gear for running say a 7.5 and 8.5 with the stock spur gear
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Old 11-18-2016, 07:02 PM   #4042
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Just happen to be going through the 17 manual and noticed that the spur gear says 84T included...What made them change from 81T to 84T ?
I added the 3 gear to my 16, but still using the stock 81T.....
Anyone with a 16 car make that change as well?

Also, should we be making a pinion gear change to accommodate, if we stayed with the 81T that comes with 16 car?.....(assuming they went to a 84T because of the 3 gear..)
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Old 11-19-2016, 05:16 PM   #4043
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
You're losing 60g with the carbon chassis so the rf brass hanger is a good place to add some weight back. Had the bushing on the bottom of the spindle for months thinking more steering and flipped them and I got more steering. I liked only 1mm shin for the front tower camber link too. No addtl high or low roll center parts I'm aware of. However the exited rear aluminum camber link mount is -2mm
Right on. I do have a brick pack I can play with if weight becomes a big issue.
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Old 11-19-2016, 06:47 PM   #4044
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
You're losing 60g with the carbon chassis so the rf brass hanger is a good place to add some weight back. Had the bushing on the bottom of the spindle for months thinking more steering and flipped them and I got more steering. I liked only 1mm shin for the front tower camber link too. No addtl high or low roll center parts I'm aware of. However the exited rear aluminum camber link mount is -2mm
FYI the xray aluminum rear roll center holder is also -2mm....same as the exotek.
Stripped 2 of them and lost 2 ball studs and shims in the process.... finally upgraded to the aluminum version.

Last edited by Phillip F; 11-20-2016 at 01:05 AM.
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Old 11-19-2016, 08:49 PM   #4045
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Just measured, it's only 37.5g difference between the '17 kit chassis and carbon chassis
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Old 11-20-2016, 06:42 AM   #4046
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BentKa,do you recommend ball diff. or gear diff. for medium outdoor astroturf?

Thanks

Last edited by atipowered; 11-20-2016 at 07:23 AM.
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Old 11-20-2016, 01:02 PM   #4047
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atipowered View Post
BentKa,do you recommend ball diff. or gear diff. for medium outdoor astroturf?

Thanks
We always run a ball diff outdoors regardless of surface

Bent
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Old 11-20-2016, 01:19 PM   #4048
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Are you able to explain the reasons behind that please Bent?
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Old 11-20-2016, 01:50 PM   #4049
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My local track doesn't stock xray parts, what are the most common parts that seem the break
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Old 11-20-2016, 02:08 PM   #4050
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony montana View Post
My local track doesn't stock xray parts, what are the most common parts that seem the break
Seen some pretty bad crashes.... hitting walls at the end of straights....
Cartwheeling down the straight...
Nothing broke....
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