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Old 12-26-2016, 07:51 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 10-15-2016, 08:39 AM   #3886
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pville Stig View Post
the 2017 xb2 is essentially the same as the yok carpet car. The yok carpet car is 349.00. Its one of the few kits that matches quality of materials with the xray. If you think ae or losi are a better value at 309.00 ask the guy who replaces the plastics every 10 runs or so if they think the car is a good value.

The 2017 comes with the optional trans where the 16 did not. Is that not worth the cost of those suspension parts? Seems kinda like a wash to me.
Sorry but the guys running the B6 at my track aren't replacing parts every 10 runs. The B6 is a solid platform IMO and I run the XB2.
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Old 10-15-2016, 11:55 AM   #3887
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Wondering how many people have seen excessive wear on the out drives and pins.
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Old 10-15-2016, 02:51 PM   #3888
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I have very minimal wear on out drives. Replaced pins after 4 months of racing twice per week. Out drives had an issue with a very small percentage of gear diff users early I saw on the internet. I never saw anyone with issues in person. I always considered aftermarket parts a downgrade and only bought them to save money. One thing is the diff seems to slip easily and likes to be set real tight.


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Wondering how many people have seen excessive wear on the out drives and pins.
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Old 10-15-2016, 04:24 PM   #3889
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I used my car total of 7 times about about 5-7 hrs total run time on high grip carpet with gear diff. Significant wear on both out drive and pins. I will replace both with original parts, would not consider using any other parts. Hopefully the wear will be better 2nd time around.
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Old 10-15-2016, 08:56 PM   #3890
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Driving style may have something to do with it. If you're a point and shoot type, then you'll have more wear. If you're smoother, less.......
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Old 10-18-2016, 07:43 AM   #3891
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here's a small tech tip. i take a dremel and I very lightly smooth out the marks on the outdrives from the pins at the same time as i swap in new pins that way the outdrives don't get big grooves in them.

however be careful with this you don't want to take off much material at all. just only to smooth the groove to get a little more life out of them, and don't do this every time, only when there's a noticeable groove. My outdrive's have lasted me almost a year so far and they look perfect, still much life in them.
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Old 10-18-2016, 02:35 PM   #3892
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
I have very minimal wear on out drives. Replaced pins after 4 months of racing twice per week. Out drives had an issue with a very small percentage of gear diff users early I saw on the internet. I never saw anyone with issues in person. I always considered aftermarket parts a downgrade and only bought them to save money. One thing is the diff seems to slip easily and likes to be set real tight.
Same here on my Dirt car geared to the moon with a 7.5, about 20 full run packs, and zero wear, And where I run is tight indoor high bite, so it should show signs of wear.
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Old 10-19-2016, 07:42 AM   #3893
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Quote:
Originally Posted by symmetricon View Post
If you wanna get the 3 gear parts in the US call up RCAMERICA... parts should arrive Oct 20-25th
anyone know if they have the 3 gear laydown parts yet?
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Old 10-19-2016, 09:09 AM   #3894
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RCA does not have them. they should be in this month sometime.. not sure when though.
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Old 10-19-2016, 11:05 AM   #3895
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Am I correct in stating that the differences in the two are a four gear laydown tranny and the optimized three gear.
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Old 10-19-2016, 12:22 PM   #3896
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Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
RCA does not have them. they should be in this month sometime.. not sure when though.
Thanks Daniel
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Old 10-19-2016, 01:21 PM   #3897
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith B View Post
Am I correct in stating that the differences in the two are a four gear laydown tranny and the optimized three gear.
And beefed up RR hinge pin holder and 2x1.6 and 2x1.7 pistons.

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Old 10-19-2016, 01:25 PM   #3898
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Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
And beefed up RR hinge pin holder and 2x1.6 and 2x1.7 pistons.

Bent
how come they beefed up the RR and didn't include more locktite and locktite instructions

jokes but glad to see xray includes what is actually used - makes life easier. the less parts to buy after the kit the better these kits will do. a lot of people like having a ready to go car from the kit.
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Old 10-19-2016, 06:19 PM   #3899
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Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
And beefed up RR hinge pin holder and 2x1.6 and 2x1.7 pistons.

Bent
What is the part number for the new pistons? Thanks!
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Old 10-20-2016, 12:46 AM   #3900
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What is the part number for the new pistons? Thanks!
#368031

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