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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 12-06-2015, 06:26 AM   #376
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Quote:
Originally Posted by symmetricon View Post
Emulsion shocks by definition have air in them...
Yep…..emulsion shocks needs air to work. Without air they lock up

A lot of people are mistaking the use of vacuum pumps as a method of removing all air in the shocks, but they are used to get consistent shocks with the same amount of air in them all after bleeding

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Old 12-06-2015, 06:34 AM   #377
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tobiasmart View Post
Do you have any tips for building the shocks without them getting full of air?
I have tried building them with only shock oil, green slime and Losi oring grease. No difference.
I always let the o-rings for the shocks (top and lower shock caps) soak in the shock oil I'm using for the shocks while I get everything else ready.

When assembling the shocks I always put shock oil on the threaded part of the shock shaft and loosen the bottom shock cap before threading (not pushing) the shock shafts through the o-rings/shock.

If you do not loosen the bottom shock cap or just push the shock shafts through the o-ring assembly you will tear the o-rings and have problems with them leaking.

And as mentioned in the earlier post, emulsion shocks by definition need air to work. Without air they will lock up.

Build them correct and you will have some of the smoothest shocks out on the market today

Bent
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Old 12-06-2015, 06:51 AM   #378
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
XB2 comes with the same servo mounts as the XB4 and all normal servos both standard and low profile will fit

You can find the XB2 manual here for further details:

http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...manual_low.pdf

Bent
thanks for the response. My concern, from using the xb4 mounts, is that the mounts are too big and can not fit in between the servo wire and the holes for the mount.

Unless I'm missing something, (which is always very possible lol) I think I will need to dremel enough space on one of the mounts to fit the where the wire protrudes from the servo.
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Old 12-06-2015, 07:08 AM   #379
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Franzchise View Post
thanks for the response. My concern, from using the xb4 mounts, is that the mounts are too big and can not fit in between the servo wire and the holes for the mount.

Unless I'm missing something, (which is always very possible lol) I think I will need to dremel enough space on one of the mounts to fit the where the wire protrudes from the servo.
We use these for the XB2:

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...p?prod_id=4986





Or just use a Dremel if your servo wire position dictates so.

Stock mounts are plastic so it will only take a couple of seconds to clearance them for the wire.

Bent
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Old 12-06-2015, 08:59 AM   #380
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
We use these for the XB2:

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...p?prod_id=4986





Or just use a Dremel if your servo wire position dictates so.

Stock mounts are plastic so it will only take a couple of seconds to clearance them for the wire.



Bent
Excellent, The aluminum mounts are a good option.

thanks for taking your time to answer
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Old 12-06-2015, 10:26 AM   #381
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What parts are worth getting in aluminum?
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Old 12-06-2015, 10:34 AM   #382
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3srcracing View Post
What parts are worth getting in aluminum?
For very high grip tracks; front and rear camber link mounts, alu. rear uprights, steering arms, ackermann bar and servo mounts

Bent
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Old 12-06-2015, 06:59 PM   #383
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
I always let the o-rings for the shocks (top and lower shock caps) soak in the shock oil I'm using for the shocks while I get everything else ready.

When assembling the shocks I always put shock oil on the threaded part of the shock shaft and loosen the bottom shock cap before threading (not pushing) the shock shafts through the o-rings/shock.

If you do not loosen the bottom shock cap or just push the shock shafts through the o-ring assembly you will tear the o-rings and have problems with them leaking.

And as mentioned in the earlier post, emulsion shocks by definition need air to work. Without air they will lock up.

Build them correct and you will have some of the smoothest shocks out on the market today

Bent
I used pretty much the same method and as long as you are careful nothings should tear. My XB4 are leak free and don't suck any extra air or anything in.


Some Fun news: My car shipped friday and it has a delivery date of Dec 10. However, it's already made it from Texas to Wasco, OR (a huge town with population of 400 people near Portland). When a package hits OR, it typically arrives the next day, or the day after so I may be getting an early Christmas!
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Old 12-06-2015, 11:47 PM   #384
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Same for me, after trying various green slims I use Bent soaking method and got very smooth and free shock shaft movement without leak.
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Old 12-07-2015, 07:42 AM   #385
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Just called RCAmerica to check on my preorder... they had my email wrong, so that's why I didn't get the shipping email. Just tracked it and it's on the truck for delivery today!

Last edited by dway100; 12-07-2015 at 08:54 AM.
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Old 12-07-2015, 07:50 AM   #386
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I ordered mine almost 9 days ago from Border RC in the Netherlands. They shipped immediately but my package has literally been being processed, 45m from my house, for 4 days. This is torture
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Old 12-07-2015, 08:22 AM   #387
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I ordered mine almost 9 days ago from Border RC in the Netherlands. They shipped immediately but my package has literally been being processed, 45m from my house, for 4 days. This is torture
that is torture.....
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Old 12-07-2015, 08:23 AM   #388
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Calling in my order today, hope they still have some to ship out (RC America)

Does this car run 14mm hex or 12mm?
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Old 12-07-2015, 08:23 AM   #389
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Same here ordered from Border RC and the package seems "lost" for 5 days strange... Not happy at all, i bought another one in a french shop.



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Old 12-07-2015, 08:55 AM   #390
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Originally Posted by 3srcracing View Post
Calling in my order today, hope they still have some to ship out (RC America)

Does this car run 14mm hex or 12mm?
12mm
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