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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 10-14-2016, 11:43 AM   #3871
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Lyons, I totally get your point. I switched from a 22 3.0 to the XB2, The extra plastics were definitely something that attracted me to the Xray. I think being the XB2 was a new platform for Xray they may have added more value to the kits to attract some new customers (me being one). I will agree its a bit disappointing that they did this, but as a business standpoint, maybe the net just wasn't there that they needed from the kit? Who knows.
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Old 10-14-2016, 11:58 AM   #3872
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It would be a more fair argument if we knew what the US domestic price is for the XB2. Something tells me it is going to be higher than $349 and probably higher than $369. I'm seeing 374Euro which is $410 US.

My personal opinion after buying the Rb6.6 and B6D is that I would pay a lot of extra money for easy access to the diff. What a relief. But, I'm lazy
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Old 10-14-2016, 12:31 PM   #3873
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoyt1967 View Post
Lyons, I totally get your point. I switched from a 22 3.0 to the XB2, The extra plastics were definitely something that attracted me to the Xray. I think being the XB2 was a new platform for Xray they may have added more value to the kits to attract some new customers (me being one). I will agree its a bit disappointing that they did this, but as a business standpoint, maybe the net just wasn't there that they needed from the kit? Who knows.
yeah maybe that did happen, but if that was the case then they should have marketed it as an introductory special kit, instead of just pulling it and keeping the same price tag. oh well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
i understand that.. but if i were to compare the cars.. side by side.. and choose unbiased.. and such..

i would choose them in this order.. based off performance, and adjustability..

#1, toss up between Xray17/Yok, they are very similar in almost every way..
#2, slight edge to the Xray 16 over the AE, but very slight..
#3, would be the AE
#4, would be the losi
yeah i agree, that's why i got the 16' car and im going to buy the 3 gear setup for it once it comes out. should be a good car for sure...

Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
It would be a more fair argument if we knew what the US domestic price is for the XB2. Something tells me it is going to be higher than $349 and probably higher than $369.

My personal opinion after buying the Rb6.6 and B6D is that I would pay a lot of extra money for easy access to the diff. What a relief. But, I'm lazy
yeah same lol i love how easy my xb4 and xb2 are to work on...
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Old 10-14-2016, 12:43 PM   #3874
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Comparison didn't include the Rb6.6

$399 includes all 3 gearboxes (laydown 3 gear, stand up 3 gear, and rear motor which nobody uses)
$50 for Brass RF hanger and aluminum RR hanger

- Plus side has better rear traction than xb2. Steering is more aggressive than former 2016 version. Shocks are smoother.

- downside, it's very heavy at about 1560 out of the box with standard electronics

I like all the below cars for different reasons. Tossup between the xb2 and rb6.6. Xb2 is much less time consuming to work on. my 2 cents



Quote:
Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
i understand that.. but if i were to compare the cars.. side by side.. and choose unbiased.. and such..

i would choose them in this order.. based off performance, and adjustability..

#1, toss up between Xray17/Yok, they are very similar in almost every way..
#2, slight edge to the Xray 16 over the AE, but very slight..
#3, would be the AE
#4, would be the losi
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Old 10-14-2016, 01:20 PM   #3875
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Kit should stay the same at $349 in the US.
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Old 10-14-2016, 01:24 PM   #3876
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Than that is extremely competitive for not needing anything but springs out of the box. nice
Quote:
Originally Posted by seth556 View Post
Kit should stay the same at $349 in the US.
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Old 10-14-2016, 03:40 PM   #3877
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seth556 View Post
Kit should stay the same at $349 in the US.
the 2017 xb2 is essentially the same as the yok carpet car. The yok carpet car is 349.00. Its one of the few kits that matches quality of materials with the xray. If you think ae or losi are a better value at 309.00 ask the guy who replaces the plastics every 10 runs or so if they think the car is a good value.

The 2017 comes with the optional trans where the 16 did not. Is that not worth the cost of those suspension parts? Seems kinda like a wash to me.
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Old 10-14-2016, 04:43 PM   #3878
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the only plastics i've replaced on my xb2 have been due to user error by stripping with an electric screwdriver. I have a pile of extra parts. In retrospect, I would have bought an extra pair of shock shafts instead. I sneezed on a straight and ran into a wall head on, full speed and the shock shaft was the only thing that broke. It takes a special talent to break this car
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Old 10-14-2016, 05:01 PM   #3879
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
the only plastics i've replaced on my xb2 have been due to user error by stripping with an electric screwdriver. I have a pile of extra parts. In retrospect, I would have bought an extra pair of shock shafts instead. I sneezed on a straight and ran into a wall head on, full speed and the shock shaft was the only thing that broke. It takes a special talent to break this car
I am talented then.
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Old 10-14-2016, 05:06 PM   #3880
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pville Stig View Post
If you think ae or losi are a better value at 309.00 ask the guy who replaces the plastics every 10 runs or so if they think the car is a good value.
I currently have both, haven't replaced plastics "every 10 runs", probably once per season, and that's a whole $10 maybe. Think they are BOTH an excellent value. Misinformation? Probably.
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Old 10-14-2016, 06:50 PM   #3881
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who replaces their plastics every 10 runs? no one...

xray and yok are of slightly higher quality i would say. but the others are extremely close.

also, does the 17 come with both transmissions? i thought it came with the 3 gear only.
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Old 10-15-2016, 06:48 AM   #3882
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Of the AE cars in fairness, the ones I have heard of replacing the a-arms on a more frequent basis appear to be the old SC10 4x4 and the RC8B3 variants apparently due to how soft they were and flexing. I haven't read that about the b6 or b6d yet.

I race with hoyt so I am excited to see what his xray can do ( I don't recall if he had it this year at the end of carpet season) and we have another guy who runs the vehicle and it worked quite well out here on dirt as we have more traction needs.

As for perceived value, etc. I can say if you are going in with Xray, up front you should know since you are buying a luxury car that you will pay luxury prices and from there, make an informed decision. As it seems like you can get the changes being made to work on the 2016 car, maybe buy a 2016 car like someone already did (for some reason the xb2s sell used pretty darn cheap considering how much they cost new, maybe the perceived handling quirks where as a B6D darn near gets a premium price compared to new due to demand) and then just upgrade parts. Could be a way to vote with your dollars and give Xray a heads up on concerns.

Be cool if they would release a '17 upgrade pack.

My only grip I personally would have if I had an xray car now (I have had the touring cars, excellent stuff) would be if I found better quality / more durable parts on another brand that I put on my xray vehicle. That should be a big no no as if I am paying the xray premium, why should someone's cheaper part be better than the significantly more expensive premium part?
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Old 10-15-2016, 07:22 AM   #3883
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I don't get it... still no gullwing front arms... maybe they are saving them for the 18 kit.
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Old 10-15-2016, 08:32 AM   #3884
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
who replaces their plastics every 10 runs? no one...

xray and yok are of slightly higher quality i would say. but the others are extremely close.

also, does the 17 come with both transmissions? i thought it came with the 3 gear only.

If you have ever owned any AE product for a period of time, the slop on the suspension pieces is ridiculous compared to other brands. It may not be 10 runs but its alot quicker than an xray product.

It says that the motor position in the carpet car can be left or right side.
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Old 10-15-2016, 08:36 AM   #3885
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
What can I say except for the CE being perfect for European carpet and astro tracks. You hardly have to buy anything to be competitive at the very top.

Kit comes almost perfectly setup for carpet and Astro racing......which is huuuge in Europe.

You mention AE and they are running B6D with laydown transmissions on clay......hardly a stock kit at all.

Bent
So you get less for the same price? Might be a better value to get the '16 and buy the 3 gear separately.
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