R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 12-26-2016, 07:51 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

Print Wikipost

Like Tree40Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-03-2016, 08:27 AM   #3766
Tech Elite
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Anaheim Ca.
Posts: 3,966
Trader Rating: 138 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
so is this the 30T pinion that works with the new Xray slipper eliminator?
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...54546?v=150275
What's wrong with using just a standard $6.00 Robinson or TLR pinion gear?
__________________
TLR 22T 3.0, 2X Yokomo YZ-2 DTM, YZ-4 SF (please hurry), Mugen MBX7R Eco, Hobbywing, Futaba, LRH Hobbies, Amain Hobbies, iCharger.
jpcopeland1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2016, 09:53 AM   #3767
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 780
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
So I have the possibility of a kick ass deal (below dealer cost) on a 2016 XB2 Dirt edition that was opened, but unbuilt or used. Should I go for it, or will the new model be different enough to wait and go full price mode? If it's only a few new parts, i'd much rather only spend the on the kit I can get now. I already have a laydown 22 3.0 that is perfect for me to run on high/medium grip clay tracks, so I wouldnt be converting this to a laydown car.
man, if i were you i would run the losi on dirt and the xb2 on med-high bite clay and astro/carpet tracks.

i think the losi is a better low bite car and the xray a better high bite.

but frankly, i wouldn't run 2 different 2wd buggies in the first place. id run the same brand for ease of maintenance, and the transfer of parts to save money and space in the box.
__________________
| XRAY XB8E 16' | XRAY XB4 16' | XRAY XB2 CE 17' |
| New England | RCE | RCM |
lyons238 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2016, 11:28 AM   #3768
Tech Elite
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Anaheim Ca.
Posts: 3,966
Trader Rating: 138 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
man, if i were you i would run the losi on dirt and the xb2 on med-high bite clay and astro/carpet tracks.

i think the losi is a better low bite car and the xray a better high bite.

but frankly, i wouldn't run 2 different 2wd buggies in the first place. id run the same brand for ease of maintenance, and the transfer of parts to save money and space in the box.
I only run on high bite clay, and the TLR has been near flawless. If the Xray is better, I will reconsider. To convert to LCG tranny isnt cheap and I already paid to do that to the TLR, plus I also have a B6, and YZ-2 CA, the AE being the worst of the buggies so far. I'll have to see where the Xray fits in with my driving style, if im impressed enough with it in 3 gear standard mid-motor I may pay to switch it over to LCG. Maybe the B6 will be better as a D, as it stands right now, it's pretty bad as a LCG car on Dirt, the Yokomo is a bit lazy. Saving money and Xray (2015 XB4) dont go together, neither does Yokomo anymore, but I have enough invested in spare parts of all of my cars that those arent really a concern anyways. I'm still more interested in whats coming as far as updates then I am what car I should drive where, I know what works for me now.
__________________
TLR 22T 3.0, 2X Yokomo YZ-2 DTM, YZ-4 SF (please hurry), Mugen MBX7R Eco, Hobbywing, Futaba, LRH Hobbies, Amain Hobbies, iCharger.

Last edited by jpcopeland1; 10-03-2016 at 11:44 AM.
jpcopeland1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2016, 11:41 AM   #3769
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 780
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
Have plenty of parts for both, and im not sold on the XB2 being better then the 22 3.0 laydown anywhere just yet. Once I drive both, I wil have a better idea of what to do, but as it stands now my TLR car is the best laydown of all the cars I have driven for my driving style. If the Xray proves otherwise I will rethink it, but I would need a laydown car, and to convert the xray will cost close to $100.00 and parts arent cheap, where as I already spent the money to change over the TLR. I like to try different buggies to see what each offers right now the B6, not much, pretty unstable as it goes and i've tried all of the setups out there for it, mainly sits on the shelf, and since the doubling of Yokomo parts cost my YZ-2 CA is shelved as well, still cheaper then xray, but nearly as expensive. What I dont want to have to do for the car is put hundreds into it after the initial purchase to make it work.
different strokes for different folks.

I found the TLR to cost WAY more in the end by the time you get all the parts you need. Car always tended to have a push and MUCH less steering than my XB2. Part of this is the hub design admitted by TLR to make the car less aggressive and easier to drive.

I found the B6 to be pretty darn solid all around and cost effective. Also you say you've tried all the setups? That's impossible, there's millions of different setup combinations, and there's MANY different factors, there's no one setup works for all. You have to find your own setup. That screams me a bit of inexperience right there.

I find the XRAY to have high parts cost, but the most durable and the best for carpet/astro and doable on clay with the laydown but it takes some serious tweaking to get it dialed on clay with the laydown in MOD.
__________________
| XRAY XB8E 16' | XRAY XB4 16' | XRAY XB2 CE 17' |
| New England | RCE | RCM |
lyons238 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2016, 01:16 PM   #3770
Tech Master
 
Phillip F's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Santa Clarita, CA
Posts: 1,343
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
What's wrong with using just a standard $6.00 Robinson or TLR pinion gear?
because I don't want to spend more money trying out different brands of pinions and end up not using some of them because they don't fit with the new 69T spur Xray offers. The lowest I can go with a 69T spur from an Exotek slipper eliminator is 33T pinion (Robinson).
Phillip F is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2016, 01:50 PM   #3771
Tech Elite
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Anaheim Ca.
Posts: 3,966
Trader Rating: 138 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
different strokes for different folks.

I found the TLR to cost WAY more in the end by the time you get all the parts you need. Car always tended to have a push and MUCH less steering than my XB2. Part of this is the hub design admitted by TLR to make the car less aggressive and easier to drive.

I found the B6 to be pretty darn solid all around and cost effective. Also you say you've tried all the setups? That's impossible, there's millions of different setup combinations, and there's MANY different factors, there's no one setup works for all. You have to find your own setup. That screams me a bit of inexperience right there.



I find the XRAY to have high parts cost, but the most durable and the best for carpet/astro and doable on clay with the laydown but it takes some serious tweaking to get it dialed on clay with the laydown in MOD.
..
__________________
TLR 22T 3.0, 2X Yokomo YZ-2 DTM, YZ-4 SF (please hurry), Mugen MBX7R Eco, Hobbywing, Futaba, LRH Hobbies, Amain Hobbies, iCharger.

Last edited by jpcopeland1; 10-03-2016 at 11:23 PM.
jpcopeland1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2016, 05:08 AM   #3772
Tech Master
 
jmcelroy42's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 1,007
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
because I don't want to spend more money trying out different brands of pinions and end up not using some of them because they don't fit with the new 69T spur Xray offers. The lowest I can go with a 69T spur from an Exotek slipper eliminator is 33T pinion (Robinson).
The problem is you cant get the motor close enough to the spur to run a 30t pinion and 69t spur, doesn't matter what brand pinion it is.
__________________
EB48.4 - TEKIN RX8 & SMC 2100
EB410 - TEKIN RSX & ORCA 5.5
RC10B6 - HW Justock & 24K 17.5
jmcelroy42 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2016, 06:51 AM   #3773
Tech Elite
 
seth556's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 2,201
Trader Rating: 42 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
because I don't want to spend more money trying out different brands of pinions and end up not using some of them because they don't fit with the new 69T spur Xray offers. The lowest I can go with a 69T spur from an Exotek slipper eliminator is 33T pinion (Robinson).
48p is 48p. I can confirm both Robinson and and TLR 48p pinions work with the 48p Xray spurs the way they are intended to work.

69/30 won't fit no matter what brand pinion and spur you use.
seth556 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2016, 10:51 AM   #3774
Tech Elite
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Anaheim Ca.
Posts: 3,966
Trader Rating: 138 (100%+)
Default

Got the build finished and noticed when I turn the wheels to the right, I cant get full lock, the steering bits bind up. I double and triple checked the build, and all is according to the manual, nothing is hitting anything. Checked the length of the tie rods and they are all 55mm (originally thought one might be a bit longer). It is off by 1mm almost exactly, left turn full lock with ease. Using a Savox, or Spektrum servo with supplied horns, both exhibit the same behavior. Running kit plastic bellcranks and steering arms. Any help about this issue would be great.
__________________
TLR 22T 3.0, 2X Yokomo YZ-2 DTM, YZ-4 SF (please hurry), Mugen MBX7R Eco, Hobbywing, Futaba, LRH Hobbies, Amain Hobbies, iCharger.
jpcopeland1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2016, 10:54 AM   #3775
Tech Elite
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Anaheim Ca.
Posts: 3,966
Trader Rating: 138 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by seth556 View Post
48p is 48p. I can confirm both Robinson and and TLR 48p pinions work with the 48p Xray spurs the way they are intended to work.

69/30 won't fit no matter what brand pinion and spur you use.
I figured as much. I've grown to like the new AE pinions as well, and at $8.00 they are a bargain, very quiet, and after using one a full race season on my YZ-2 CA, no noticable wear. $16.00 is a bit much for a pinion gear.8
__________________
TLR 22T 3.0, 2X Yokomo YZ-2 DTM, YZ-4 SF (please hurry), Mugen MBX7R Eco, Hobbywing, Futaba, LRH Hobbies, Amain Hobbies, iCharger.
jpcopeland1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2016, 11:27 AM   #3776
Tech Master
 
jmcelroy42's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 1,007
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
Got the build finished and noticed when I turn the wheels to the right, I cant get full lock, the steering bits bind up. I double and triple checked the build, and all is according to the manual, nothing is hitting anything. Checked the length of the tie rods and they are all 55mm (originally thought one might be a bit longer). It is off by 1mm almost exactly, left turn full lock with ease. Using a Savox, or Spektrum servo with supplied horns, both exhibit the same behavior. Running kit plastic bellcranks and steering arms. Any help about this issue would be great.
I know you said you double checked everything, but pay close attention to the steering blocks (page 23 in the manual) as it is very easy to install them backwards. It has happened to a few people, the part outside of the bearing is more square on one side, that goes out towards the wheel. This is the only thing I can think of.
If its not that, post some pics, that may help diagnose the issue.
__________________
EB48.4 - TEKIN RX8 & SMC 2100
EB410 - TEKIN RSX & ORCA 5.5
RC10B6 - HW Justock & 24K 17.5
jmcelroy42 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2016, 02:11 PM   #3777
Tech Elite
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Anaheim Ca.
Posts: 3,966
Trader Rating: 138 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jmcelroy42 View Post
I know you said you double checked everything, but pay close attention to the steering blocks (page 23 in the manual) as it is very easy to install them backwards. It has happened to a few people, the part outside of the bearing is more square on one side, that goes out towards the wheel. This is the only thing I can think of.
If its not that, post some pics, that may help diagnose the issue.
Duh, ok, That was it. Too easy to get that confused.
__________________
TLR 22T 3.0, 2X Yokomo YZ-2 DTM, YZ-4 SF (please hurry), Mugen MBX7R Eco, Hobbywing, Futaba, LRH Hobbies, Amain Hobbies, iCharger.

Last edited by jpcopeland1; 10-04-2016 at 02:45 PM.
jpcopeland1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2016, 02:17 PM   #3778
JAE
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,877
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

If you have the wrong parts, thats not good. The axle bushings made a huge difference for me in steering. My Xb2 had much better steering with the long bushing on the top.
__________________
JAE
JAE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2016, 02:33 PM   #3779
Tech Master
 
BentKa's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Norway
Posts: 1,358
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
Your partially right, it seems that I got 2 same sided steering blocks, switched them, and now turning left has the issue, and turning right gets full throw I temporarily fixed it by going axles up instead of kit settings. I have some hard blocks I want to use anyways. Will throw them in, and see what happens.
The steering blocks are the same left to right and they are injection molded so there's no way you have can have a steering block with 2 sides being the same

They all have 1 flat side and one beveled side.
Beveled side goes to the inside and flat side to the outside

Bent
BentKa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2016, 05:14 AM   #3780
Tech Rookie
 
SloppyJoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Compass Lake, Florida
Posts: 9
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
Got the build finished and noticed when I turn the wheels to the right, I cant get full lock, the steering bits bind up. I double and triple checked the build, and all is according to the manual, nothing is hitting anything. Checked the length of the tie rods and they are all 55mm (originally thought one might be a bit longer). It is off by 1mm almost exactly, left turn full lock with ease. Using a Savox, or Spektrum servo with supplied horns, both exhibit the same behavior. Running kit plastic bellcranks and steering arms. Any help about this issue would be great.
Adjust your endpoints on your radio. I had the same problem but the EPA fixed it.
SloppyJoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 3 (0 members and 3 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 05:14 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net