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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 09-02-2016, 05:42 AM   #3616
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Anyone figure out how to get the buggy or not push a bit on power mid to corner exit? I'm running the carpet car on super high bite clay (slicks 100% of time) and it also pushes a bit on medium/high bite (electrons). Pistons are 2 hole 1.6 & 1.7 schelle Pistons with 32.5/ 30 oil. Springs are 2 dot front 2 dot rear. 2mm front limiters none in rear. Shocks on rear with brass hangers (keep on for when I'm on medium bite track).

Tried associated gray fronts seemed to help a bit. Turn in is fine, just mid turn and on exit. Ive seemed to notice this more since the b6 came out, and all the buggies I'm racing against seem to corner much better than when they were all b5m's on the track. In any event, is this symptomatic of the xb2 and is there a common way with this buggy to tune it out? Thx
Grey is not that soft. I use that to tame oversteer. Go softer like a white spring.

Last edited by Phillip F; 09-02-2016 at 08:33 AM.
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Old 09-02-2016, 10:44 AM   #3617
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Where can I get a good fan mount for the xb2 ce? 30mm fan.
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Old 09-02-2016, 12:55 PM   #3618
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Anyone figure out how to get the buggy or not push a bit on power mid to corner exit? I'm running the carpet car on super high bite clay (slicks 100% of time) and it also pushes a bit on medium/high bite (electrons). Pistons are 2 hole 1.6 & 1.7 schelle Pistons with 32.5/ 30 oil. Springs are 2 dot front 2 dot rear. 2mm front limiters none in rear. Shocks on rear with brass hangers (keep on for when I'm on medium bite track).

Tried associated gray fronts seemed to help a bit. Turn in is fine, just mid turn and on exit. Ive seemed to notice this more since the b6 came out, and all the buggies I'm racing against seem to corner much better than when they were all b5m's on the track. In any event, is this symptomatic of the xb2 and is there a common way with this buggy to tune it out? Thx
More caster, less front droop, zero slot akkerman arms, raise the steering blocks, raise the rear roll center
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Old 09-02-2016, 01:20 PM   #3619
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I've lowered rear roll center quite a bit. 2mm shim on hub. 3mm on camber link. What do you mean raise steering blocks?ill try 5.0 caster. Already at 2.5.
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More caster, less front droop, zero slot akkerman arms, raise the steering blocks, raise the rear roll center
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Old 09-02-2016, 01:35 PM   #3620
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Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Anyone figure out how to get the buggy or not push a bit on power mid to corner exit? I'm running the carpet car on super high bite clay (slicks 100% of time) and it also pushes a bit on medium/high bite (electrons). Pistons are 2 hole 1.6 & 1.7 schelle Pistons with 32.5/ 30 oil. Springs are 2 dot front 2 dot rear. 2mm front limiters none in rear. Shocks on rear with brass hangers (keep on for when I'm on medium bite track).

Tried associated gray fronts seemed to help a bit. Turn in is fine, just mid turn and on exit. Ive seemed to notice this more since the b6 came out, and all the buggies I'm racing against seem to corner much better than when they were all b5m's on the track. In any event, is this symptomatic of the xb2 and is there a common way with this buggy to tune it out? Thx
What ever set up i tried more caster, front less drop, lay down front shocks 0 slot but still not enough steering corner not like the other BD6, B5M and Losi. A lot people complaining the steering hopefully the new xb2 '17 they update the steering.
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Old 09-02-2016, 01:48 PM   #3621
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Laying down the front shock caused way more push for me.
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Originally Posted by raved007 View Post
What ever set up i tried more caster, front less drop, lay down front shocks 0 slot but still not enough steering corner not like the other BD6, B5M and Losi. A lot people complaining the steering hopefully the new xb2 '17 they update the steering.
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Old 09-02-2016, 02:11 PM   #3622
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raved007 View Post
What ever set up i tried more caster, front less drop, lay down front shocks 0 slot but still not enough steering corner not like the other BD6, B5M and Losi. A lot people complaining the steering hopefully the new xb2 '17 they update the steering.
Try going a little heaver on the front shock oil.
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Old 09-02-2016, 06:47 PM   #3623
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raved007 View Post
What ever set up i tried more caster, front less drop, lay down front shocks 0 slot but still not enough steering corner not like the other BD6, B5M and Losi. A lot people complaining the steering hopefully the new xb2 '17 they update the steering.
I've been having the same problem and I've tried just about everything I can think of. Unless I didn't think hard enough.
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Old 09-03-2016, 06:58 AM   #3624
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Coming from someone who only has Tekno SCT and Tekno 1/8th E-Bug, which pretty much comes fully upgraded. Do these x-ray 1/10th's need much out of the box to be competitive? I live in Florida so I can still race my 1/8th outdoor all year, but there are a few nice indoor tracks here that are only 1/10th that I want to hit up. My brand Tekno is only 1/8, so I was looking into x-ray for 1/10.

I know 1/10 has way more hopup parts than 1/8, but wasnt sure which all were needed to be competitive. I don't want to have an inferior car, so what all would be recommended to buy? Thanks!
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Old 09-03-2016, 07:26 AM   #3625
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Coming from tekno cars i run xray cars for indoors and really like them.Not saying others are bad but no need to upgrade,xrays...But sometimes parts are hard to find but there is dealership in florida...rc america hanles all xray inports..

good luck
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Old 09-03-2016, 02:34 PM   #3626
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I just bought the XB2 from one of the guys here and I just realize that the AE wheels works on the Xray and vice versa. Anybody racing with AE wheels with their XB2s?

Last edited by Phillip F; 09-03-2016 at 04:33 PM.
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Old 09-03-2016, 04:55 PM   #3627
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I'm using AE wheels on all 3 xrays. Just need to buy the right rear hexes. Believe they and plus 3.75 ones...check the wiki. Front is close enough (.75mm wider)but you could get the -.75 for fronts). Only use the soft AE wheels. Not quite as soft as Xray, which is why I plan to switch soon for lower bite tracks.
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I just bought the XB2 from one of the guys here and I just realize that the AE wheels works on the Xray and vice versa. Anybody racing with AE wheels with their XB2s?
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Old 09-03-2016, 08:04 PM   #3628
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Coming from tekno cars i run xray cars for indoors and really like them.Not saying others are bad but no need to upgrade,xrays...But sometimes parts are hard to find but there is dealership in florida...rc america hanles all xray inports..

good luck
Nice, that was my plan... just use them for indoors, and use my tekno's outdoors. I'm not really worried about parts too much, since i order all my stuff online anyway. I was just worried about having to buy a bunch of upgrades for 1/10, since i thought everyone tried to lighten them a ton.
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Old 09-03-2016, 08:10 PM   #3629
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You'll be very happy with Xray coming from a tekno. I had a sct410 awhile ago. The first thing I noticed was the beefy plastics reminded me a lot of a 10th scale smaller Tekno. Something you don't find in other 10th scale buggies except maybe the yokomo.i have all these spares as nothing breaks on this buggy. I sneezed and drove full speed down a straight head on into a wall last week. Only thing that broke was a shock shaft.

shaftQUOTE=deceit;14659073]Nice, that was my plan... just use them for indoors, and use my tekno's outdoors. I'm not really worried about parts too much, since i order all my stuff online anyway. I was just worried about having to buy a bunch of upgrades for 1/10, since i thought everyone tried to lighten them a ton.[/QUOTE]
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Old 09-04-2016, 12:28 AM   #3630
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What shock oil comes in stock in the box of the CE ? compared to AE shock oil...which weight would it be the equivalent weight?
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