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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 08-23-2016, 11:37 PM   #3571
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Anyone here try any other shocks on the xb2? I have some b5m Kashmir shocks I received in a trade. Was wondering if they were a direct fit, which parts needed (rod ends / bushings) and if anyone had any opinion on how they worked with the buggy. Thx
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Old 08-24-2016, 06:50 AM   #3572
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Anyone here try any other shocks on the xb2? I have some b5m Kashmir shocks I received in a trade. Was wondering if they were a direct fit, which parts needed (rod ends / bushings) and if anyone had any opinion on how they worked with the buggy. Thx
I believe b5m shocks can be a direct bolt on. however, they may need to be shimmed inside/out to get the lengths set right.

But what don't you like about the XRAY shocks? quite honestly I upgraded pistons to the Schelle machined pistons, and I built them like bent does (soak all o-rings in a thin cst shock oil for 20 mins before assembly, no slime, no tricks. my shocks NEVER leak, and they stay pretty clean for a decent amount of time. at first i didn't like them as much as my TLR shocks, but now I think they're on par with the TLR shocks (and I love TLR shocks, even more than AE). also the plastic caps are actually preferable than aluminum. the plastic wears well from grinding when you flip over and it seals well too. plus theyre cheap to replace.
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Old 08-24-2016, 08:07 AM   #3573
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
I believe b5m shocks can be a direct bolt on. however, they may need to be shimmed inside/out to get the lengths set right.

But what don't you like about the XRAY shocks? quite honestly I upgraded pistons to the Schelle machined pistons, and I built them like bent does (soak all o-rings in a thin cst shock oil for 20 mins before assembly, no slime, no tricks. my shocks NEVER leak, and they stay pretty clean for a decent amount of time. at first i didn't like them as much as my TLR shocks, but now I think they're on par with the TLR shocks (and I love TLR shocks, even more than AE). also the plastic caps are actually preferable than aluminum. the plastic wears well from grinding when you flip over and it seals well too. plus theyre cheap to replace.
I just use Yokomo X-rings instead Xray O-rings and dont have any issue with leaking (I also use Schelle pistons).
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Old 08-24-2016, 10:58 AM   #3574
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Nothing in particular I like or dislike. I have had some leakage out of the upper caps. I did soak the orings in oil for 30 minutes prior btw. I did notice I need heavier dampening with the X-ray shocks vs associated. Had these laying around so just figured I would try them.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
I believe b5m shocks can be a direct bolt on. however, they may need to be shimmed inside/out to get the lengths set right.

But what don't you like about the XRAY shocks? quite honestly I upgraded pistons to the Schelle machined pistons, and I built them like bent does (soak all o-rings in a thin cst shock oil for 20 mins before assembly, no slime, no tricks. my shocks NEVER leak, and they stay pretty clean for a decent amount of time. at first i didn't like them as much as my TLR shocks, but now I think they're on par with the TLR shocks (and I love TLR shocks, even more than AE). also the plastic caps are actually preferable than aluminum. the plastic wears well from grinding when you flip over and it seals well too. plus theyre cheap to replace.
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Old 08-24-2016, 12:19 PM   #3575
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MiG77 View Post
I just use Yokomo X-rings
Are those the same outer diameter as the xray pistons?
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Old 08-24-2016, 01:00 PM   #3576
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seth556 View Post
Are those the same outer diameter as the xray pistons?
I mean I use Yokomo X-rings (Z2-S3X) instead of Xray Silicone O-Ring 3x2 (972030). So no, they are not same diameter as pistons (smaller). X-rings keep way better dirt out of shock aswell.
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Old 08-24-2016, 01:59 PM   #3577
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I have heard people swapping in x-rings from other brands, but i have not seen a need to. i find the xray shocks to be as effective as my TLR shocks, which I think are top notch.

i may try the x-rings out though to see how they work. specifically what rings are you using?
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Old 08-24-2016, 11:03 PM   #3578
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
I have heard people swapping in x-rings from other brands, but i have not seen a need to. i find the xray shocks to be as effective as my TLR shocks, which I think are top notch.

i may try the x-rings out though to see how they work. specifically what rings are you using?
I use these: https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-s3x/p417710
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Old 08-25-2016, 06:12 AM   #3579
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MiG77 View Post
I mean I use Yokomo X-rings (Z2-S3X) instead of Xray Silicone O-Ring 3x2 (972030). So no, they are not same diameter as pistons (smaller). X-rings keep way better dirt out of shock aswell.
Ah that's what I meant. Xray o-rings have a bigger outer diameter than AE/Kyosho x-rings so that'd be awesome if the Yokomo ones fit. I've been hoping X-ray would release x-rings for years now... The stock o-rings work well and are super smooth, but you still have to rebuild the shocks every couple races.
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Old 08-25-2016, 06:56 AM   #3580
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MiG77 View Post
thanks m8, is the outer diameter the same? or does it cause any leakage issues or anything?
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Old 08-25-2016, 07:17 AM   #3581
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Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
thanks m8, is the outer diameter the same? or does it cause any leakage issues or anything?
I build my shocks about four months ago and if I remember right those were little tight to fit but still pretty easy. I have not rebuild shock since (only changed oils) and I still dont have any leaking.

I didnt even try Xray O-rings in XB2 so I cannot compare how there perform to X-rings. I just build those from the start with X-rings as I had first hand experience about Xray shocks leaking (and getting dirt inside) when I had XB4 2014 (Corrected it with same Yokomo X-rings then).
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Old 08-25-2016, 07:22 AM   #3582
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Originally Posted by MiG77 View Post
I build my shocks about four months ago and if I remember right those were little tight to fit but still pretty easy. I have not rebuild shock since (only changed oils) and I still dont have any leaking.

I didnt even try Xray O-rings in XB2 so I cannot compare how there perform to X-rings. I just build those from the start with X-rings as I had first hand experience about Xray shocks leaking (and getting dirt inside) when I had XB4 2014 (Corrected it with same Yokomo X-rings then).
good to know. i think xray has improved them since 14. mine don't leak. i have had mine for over 3 months and have only changed oils as well. the first oil change i did notice a decent amount of dirt inside, but since then it's gotten better. i think the rings swelled.

i think X-rings by design block out dirt better. im not sure if they last longer or shorter than o-rings though. ill def try them next rebuild, thank you!
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Old 08-28-2016, 07:37 AM   #3583
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Finished the build on my XB2 CE, good build everything went together well. Only issue, one of the shims for the steering rack wasn't anywhere near the right size. Supposed to be 1mm but it was more like 1/100mm thick. No big deal I had a spare that I used.

Question, I see a lot of people are using the brass arm mount, which one are most people using?
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Old 08-29-2016, 02:23 PM   #3584
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any word on possible 3 gear laydown tranny like the yoke uses
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Old 08-30-2016, 10:41 AM   #3585
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Haven't heard anything official from overseas but it's coming. Probably standard on the XB2'17 car but Im sure it will be an option you can use on the current car.
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