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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 08-12-2016, 07:06 AM   #3526
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Originally Posted by ryan432greening View Post
Just picked one of these CE editions up and I'm ordering some replacement parts for race day repairs. Are any of you folks breaking shock towers on big hits? I may leave these off my list if I can get away with it.
This car doesn't break.

I tried and tried. Finally snapped a rear tower SENDING it off a giant jump and it kicked the rear.
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Old 08-13-2016, 05:19 AM   #3527
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Originally Posted by JAE View Post
anyone try these on the Xb2 yet?
I doubt they would do much. I thought they would really only smooth out the front driveshafts on a 4wd since those axles not only move up and down but also forward and back, more angles than a 2wd rear shaft will ever see
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Old 08-13-2016, 09:18 AM   #3528
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I think the setup sheets should have spot for de or ce on it..
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Old 08-13-2016, 09:29 PM   #3529
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Any advice on how to get more steering on the XB2 carpet edition on turf?

Also what aluminum steering horn work for the XB2 CE
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Old 08-14-2016, 01:41 AM   #3530
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Try Ackerman plates.

BtW- Ran My CE for the first time in awhile on medium bite clay. Added the Xray brass hangers. They worked great. No more issues with grip. I previously had about 30 grams under the transmission, but got rid of that and added these that I expect to be about 40 grams. The hangers worked twice as well. To compensate and running a battery that is 50 grams lighter. I did notice the buggy is jumping flat and sometimes a little nose high to where I want to hit the brake I the air a bit I the larger jumps. The CE had this tendency before but seems a little more pronounced. Anyone had this problem and fixed it? Running 32.5/30 oil with 2 hole 1.6 and 1.7 pistons 2 dot 2 dot sprigs fr/rr with 2 degrees anti squat. Anyone combat this problem succesfully without adding a 40 gram brass arm holder in the front? Thx

Last edited by JAE; 08-14-2016 at 08:48 AM.
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Old 08-14-2016, 10:30 AM   #3531
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Originally Posted by blwaz23 View Post
Any advice on how to get more steering on the XB2 carpet edition on turf?

Also what aluminum steering horn work for the XB2 CE
I just tested out my CE at RCHR and it was money dude. Had atleast twice the steering it had stock, and I dont have to yank the brakes to get it to turn in. Ill get my setup sheet posted up.
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Old 08-14-2016, 11:09 AM   #3532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
anyone try these on the Xb2 yet?
On ECS, they will take away any mechanical bind in the rear drivetrain. This will "take away" traction. There is a lot of this information on multiple threads. They are referred to as universals by other manufacturers.

CVD - Most bind
CVA - standard
ECS/Universal - least bind
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Old 08-14-2016, 03:01 PM   #3533
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woulvesbaine View Post
Most manufacturers have ditched any new development towards purpose built rear motor drive cars because the sales aren't there.

If you really want a rear motor car, the b5 rear motor is quite good and can be found new for $180 (I've driven a couple) and the VBC RM looks pretty cool and can be found for around $200 plus shipping new.

xray showed Rear Motor-option on this car, said conversion was in work in another thread just few months back

kyosho new 6.6 car comes with 4 gear box options in one kit, includes rear motor

durango car is multi gear option like kyosho

associated may or not add a rear option new B6 if demand is there. B5-rear still is best on our loose, wet to dry, rut track. B5r now shows discont on many sites
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Old 08-14-2016, 03:31 PM   #3534
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pinkz View Post
xray showed Rear Motor-option on this car, said conversion was in work in another thread just few months back

kyosho new 6.6 car comes with 4 gear box options in one kit, includes rear motor

durango car is multi gear option like kyosho

associated may or not add a rear option new B6 if demand is there. B5-rear still is best on our loose, wet to dry, rut track. B5r now shows discont on many sites
The design for Kyoshos rear motor has remained the same since the RB6 was released years ago. The 6.6 is a different chassis and other things like a lay down, but it is mainly unchanged and thats why they still include it in the box. Zero development had to go into making that work
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Old 08-15-2016, 12:33 AM   #3535
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there was a comment also about xray not being able to do rear motor due to a patent infring issue with another maker. rear motor has been out since like day 1....don't see how anyone could hold a patent on it
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Old 08-15-2016, 06:44 AM   #3536
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Originally Posted by Bill Carson View Post
Anyone else having issues with the shocks gaining pack as the race goes on? I have been running the DE for about 8 weeks now and it seems like the shocks are gaining pack, or maybe air is getting into the shocks some how. I have never noticed this on other buggies i have owned, am i missing a simple step in building them? or do i just need to change the orings/shock oil more often? I have been changing the shock oil once every race day.
Build the shocks, bleed them like normal, pump them a bunch of times, then bleed them again. The shock oil warms up while you run the car so you need to pump them in the building process.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rcfiend
My kit DE kit arrived and I'm missing the 3x8 bearings for the diff case. I've gone through bag 3 and there not in that bag.
The bearings are in a separate bearing bag.
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Old 08-15-2016, 10:54 AM   #3537
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Originally Posted by seth556 View Post
Build the shocks, bleed them like normal, pump them a bunch of times, then bleed them again. The shock oil warms up while you run the car so you need to pump them in the building process.
Good Point, Thanks!
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Old 08-16-2016, 06:07 PM   #3538
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Originally Posted by Pinkz View Post
there was a comment also about xray not being able to do rear motor due to a patent infring issue with another maker. rear motor has been out since like day 1....don't see how anyone could hold a patent on it
i think the patent was for one gearbox case being able to do four configurations.
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Old 08-16-2016, 06:08 PM   #3539
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Originally Posted by seth556 View Post
Build the shocks, bleed them like normal, pump them a bunch of times, then bleed them again. The shock oil warms up while you run the car so you need to pump them in the building process.
+1
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Old 08-17-2016, 02:46 AM   #3540
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So I was just about to pull the trigger on getting one (or both) of these cars, but after reading through this thread I am hesitating.

Is it just me, or are most of you having to do a lot of work on these cars to get them to operate correctly?

In other words, if I was to get one and build the box stock set up, would I be at a disadvantage compared to other makes and models?
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