R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 12-26-2016, 07:51 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

Print Wikipost

Like Tree30Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-05-2016, 06:17 AM   #3496
Tech Master
 
Slapjack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 1,063
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

This is a stupid question but ride height is set by using the downstop shim in the shocks? Is that correct? or is it by using the spring tension nut and rod end adjustment too? I am just going thru a setup sheet off the petite site and in the rear they have the shock length at 32 (which only makes the rod end screwed half way onto the threads of the shaft) then they use 3mm up stop shims and 0 inside the shock. The ride height is 17mm but I can't get the height that low even if I unscrew the spring tensioner nut on the shock all the way. And when I do that the car has very little rebound. What am I doing wrong?
I am also wondering what is the point of using upstop shims? Why not just use no shims and screw the rod end on more? With this setup I am trying the rod end is only screwed half way on then there is 3mm of shims which basically covers the rest of the threads on the shaft. I know there is a reason for doing it like that but what is it? droop maybe?
__________________
Tekno Eb48.3, EB48.2, Tekno ET48, X-Ray XB4'14, '15 & '16, X-Ray XB2 CE, X-Ray T4'15, Hot Bodies D413, Serpent SRX-2, Axial Wraith (full custom Mattzilla Build), Blade 180QXHD
Slapjack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2016, 07:31 AM   #3497
Suspended
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,124
Trader Rating: 61 (100%+)
Default

Longer rod ends are common on this car. I posted the part numbers to the Kyosho ends. Also look at the wiki.

Preload is what's used to change ride height.
__________________
Best Avatar on rc-tech
Socket is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2016, 12:08 PM   #3498
JAE
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,866
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

Upstop shims prevent the shock from compressing too far. It's to prevent the dogbone from hitting the diff outdrive, damaging it, or binding. Compress the shocks. If the bone hits the outdrive add more upstop shims. General consensus is the xb2 lacks rear droop. Most put no downstop liniters in the shock and 3mm upstop shims.
JAE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2016, 06:31 AM   #3499
Regional Moderator
 
RobsRacin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: CT
Posts: 874
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

So ran my CE yesterday for the first time on our high bite tight turf track. Man this thing is a dump truck. I was having to come into the corner and try to lock up the rear tires to get it to turn in on entry and even as it went through the corner it just kept pushing. I have checked and I am getting the full steering throw on both sides, I originally had the TLR metal horn on my servo from my previous car and left it on for my CE thinking it would be fine but it did not have nearly enough throw to get it to the locks on either side. I fixed that before it even got to the track

So far ive done the following to deviate from the box stock setup:

-Shortened the front camber link to the inside hole on the tower
-took out the 2mm spacer on the hub side of the steering link
-raised the front hub by switching the bushings around
-battery weight

I am running 18mm ride height all around which seems pretty good, its just the car doesnt have enought steering throughout the entire corner from start to finish. I am going to get the brass front arm mount, but do you guys have any other suggestions? The car is also a little unsettled on one of the landers, and if it gets unsettled when I go to turn right after the lander the car immediately traction rolls. Only happens every once in a while if I overshoot it by a hair, I think the longer shock ends would help with this.

What say all you guru's?
RobsRacin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2016, 12:59 PM   #3500
Tech Fanatic
 
SLOWINSLOWOUT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: West Kelowna, BC
Posts: 795
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Personally I work on the opposite end than I am having issues with, so in this case I would take away some rear traction at corner entry/mid corner.

More rear drop
less rear toe
raise rear roll center
heaver diff oil
rear tires
stiffer rear springs
rear roll bar

on the front I would;
softer spring
more ackerman
more camber gain
more static camber
lower roll center
__________________
_____________________________________
Earl Towson
Team RC America - Xray USA - Hudy USA - Motiv RC - Max Power - Gravity RC - Prolevel RC - GRIPWORKS RC
WCICS.ca club rep. www.krcracing.ca
SLOWINSLOWOUT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2016, 01:05 PM   #3501
Tech Fanatic
 
SLOWINSLOWOUT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: West Kelowna, BC
Posts: 795
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Got a CE for sale if anyone is looking. In the F/S thread here
__________________
_____________________________________
Earl Towson
Team RC America - Xray USA - Hudy USA - Motiv RC - Max Power - Gravity RC - Prolevel RC - GRIPWORKS RC
WCICS.ca club rep. www.krcracing.ca
SLOWINSLOWOUT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2016, 02:27 PM   #3502
JAE
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,866
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

Did you check to see if your kickup plate was upside down? Or something reversed in the steering rack?does it have less steering than your former DE? I could not get my CE to have less steering than my DE if I tried so something had to be installed incorrectly or broken IMO.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobsRacin View Post
So ran my CE yesterday for the first time on our high bite tight turf track. Man this thing is a dump truck. I was having to come into the corner and try to lock up the rear tires to get it to turn in on entry and even as it went through the corner it just kept pushing. I have checked and I am getting the full steering throw on both sides, I originally had the TLR metal horn on my servo from my previous car and left it on for my CE thinking it would be fine but it did not have nearly enough throw to get it to the locks on either side. I fixed that before it even got to the track

So far ive done the following to deviate from the box stock setup:

-Shortened the front camber link to the inside hole on the tower
-took out the 2mm spacer on the hub side of the steering link
-raised the front hub by switching the bushings around
-battery weight

I am running 18mm ride height all around which seems pretty good, its just the car doesnt have enought steering throughout the entire corner from start to finish. I am going to get the brass front arm mount, but do you guys have any other suggestions? The car is also a little unsettled on one of the landers, and if it gets unsettled when I go to turn right after the lander the car immediately traction rolls. Only happens every once in a while if I overshoot it by a hair, I think the longer shock ends would help with this.

What say all you guru's?
JAE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2016, 07:36 PM   #3503
Regional Moderator
 
RobsRacin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: CT
Posts: 874
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SLOWINSLOWOUT View Post
Personally I work on the opposite end than I am having issues with, so in this case I would take away some rear traction at corner entry/mid corner.

More rear drop
less rear toe
raise rear roll center
heaver diff oil
rear tires
stiffer rear springs
rear roll bar

on the front I would;
softer spring
more ackerman
more camber gain
more static camber
lower roll center
I am going to go ahead and change out the steering carbon plates for the 0 slot plates which should make the steering more aggressive, as well as add the 23/29 brass weight, and go from the stock 4 degrees of rear toe down to about 2. I also am thinking of maybe trying out a different set of tires which arent as locked in
RobsRacin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2016, 07:37 PM   #3504
Regional Moderator
 
RobsRacin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: CT
Posts: 874
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Did you check to see if your kickup plate was upside down? Or something reversed in the steering rack?does it have less steering than your former DE? I could not get my CE to have less steering than my DE if I tried so something had to be installed incorrectly or broken IMO.
I tried my DE once on the turf but didnt run it much, it wanted to traction roll a bit and was really soft compared to how my CE feels out of the box. I havnt checked, but im pretty sure everything is right up front, but I will go through and double check that when I install the brass front weight
RobsRacin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2016, 07:48 PM   #3505
JAE
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,866
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

It's easy to install the wrong way. I did on my DE at first. In any event, the way I have my CE setup for max rear traction made my DE really slow cornering/rotating when setup the same way (laying down rear shock, etc.). But, have no issues with my carpet car in the same setup. Also have 4 degrees toe and have tried 0-3 Dev anti squat. I have no issues with cornering and know I can get more steering out of the car if I sacrifice grip/traction (but don't because I'm on med grip clay at times). With the dirt car I added 25 grams sticky weight on the servo, stood up the rear shock more, and I had the 1 slot Ackerman plates to combat the push. Haven't done any of this in the carpet car. . Let us know what you find. Btw - also running the short links..Thx

Quote:
Originally Posted by RobsRacin View Post
I tried my DE once on the turf but didnt run it much, it wanted to traction roll a bit and was really soft compared to how my CE feels out of the box. I havnt checked, but im pretty sure everything is right up front, but I will go through and double check that when I install the brass front weight
JAE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2016, 08:03 AM   #3506
Tech Master
 
Slapjack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 1,063
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RobsRacin View Post
I am going to go ahead and change out the steering carbon plates for the 0 slot plates which should make the steering more aggressive, as well as add the 23/29 brass weight, and go from the stock 4 degrees of rear toe down to about 2. I also am thinking of maybe trying out a different set of tires which arent as locked in
You should try the Schumacher "cut stagger" front tires if you aren't already. I get a lot of steering with those compared to the proline wedges I was running before.
__________________
Tekno Eb48.3, EB48.2, Tekno ET48, X-Ray XB4'14, '15 & '16, X-Ray XB2 CE, X-Ray T4'15, Hot Bodies D413, Serpent SRX-2, Axial Wraith (full custom Mattzilla Build), Blade 180QXHD
Slapjack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2016, 08:13 AM   #3507
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 1,239
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapjack View Post
You should try the Schumacher "cut stagger" front tires if you aren't already. I get a lot of steering with those compared to the proline wedges I was running before.
I agree that i think coz when i am running xray front wheels not enough steering and i tried Schumacher wheels then have a lot of steeering
raved007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2016, 06:50 PM   #3508
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 402
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

When is the rear motor from xray supposed to be released. It was a big selling point for me
rekim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2016, 06:55 PM   #3509
Suspended
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,124
Trader Rating: 61 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rekim View Post
When is the rear motor from xray supposed to be released. It was a big selling point for me
I wouldn't hold my breath.
__________________
Best Avatar on rc-tech
Socket is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2016, 08:36 PM   #3510
Tech Master
 
WillS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 1,131
Trader Rating: 30 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to WillS Send a message via Yahoo to WillS
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rekim View Post
When is the rear motor from xray supposed to be released. It was a big selling point for me
Honestly with 4 gear, most running outdoors see no need for rear motor anymore since they can gain steering and corner speed with mid motor.
__________________
Will Smith
=========================================================
Sponsors:
Cheater Racing, Team Powers, Amain.com/Protek, Dialed RC Hobbies/Soar
WillS is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 10:21 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net