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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 07-31-2016, 04:53 PM   #3481
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woulvesbaine View Post
Xray, Exotek and RDRP all have CF chassis for this car. Has anyone tried any of them?

Unless you really need weight savings for stock, I'm not sure that this is really necessary.

JAE, you get this dialed in for OCRC yet?
http://www.liverc.com/news/special_f..._for_XRAY_XB2/
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Old 07-31-2016, 05:17 PM   #3482
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Originally Posted by JAE View Post
X-rays new carbon chassis reads it will increase flex and traction. It's 2.5mm. I don't read anything regarding the exotek 2.5 mm carbon increasing traction. Could there be something different about the carbon used? I know Socket's liverc write up indicated it was stiff and that was the benefit. Anyone else have any expereince with this and could it be the weave?
With my testing with regard to alloy or carbon- Alloy chassis has always provided more traction/stability on clay than a carbon chassis.
And a flexible carbon chassis was always slower than a stiff carbon chassis.

A stiff carbon chassis provides crisper handling and generally more predictable than a 'flexy' carbon chassis... flexy carbon chassis would tend to 'bounce' on landing doubles and snap loose through rough sections if your line wasn't perfect thus why Exotek spec'd the stiffest weave carbon fiber.

Alloy chassis- low to medium grip tracks= easy to drive.
Carbon chassis- medium to high grip tracks= more responsive.
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Old 07-31-2016, 05:31 PM   #3483
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The beauty of composites is that you can tailor the layup to achieve the results you want. If you want more bending stiffness, add more plies of uni-direcitonal. More torsional stiffness, add more +/-45.

Lots of good engineering tools available now to perform analysis on composites too. Back in the day we used to have to do a lot of estimating in NASTRAN to get the right properties. Now you can plug in what fabric, how many plies and out comes a beautiful structural model. Frankly I'm shocked that there hasn't been more analytical work in RC cars. Still lots of flat plates of CF cut out with a water jet. I suspect that someday we will have more 3 dimensional composites and things will get very interesting.
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Old 07-31-2016, 05:39 PM   #3484
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I am having issues with the rear of this car coming loose on corner exit. What changes have you guys made from the stock setup if you have had the same issue??
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Old 07-31-2016, 07:59 PM   #3485
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Originally Posted by wheres_yogi View Post
I am having issues with the rear of this car coming loose on corner exit. What changes have you guys made from the stock setup if you have had the same issue??
heres a few things you could try but only try one at a time...these options will allow the rear of the car to roll a little more and increase side bite and traction in the corners.

1. lay the rear shocks down as much as possible
2. adjust camber and camber gain so rear wheels are flat when car is at a full roll in turns
3. run a lower roll center by reducing ball stud height on the rear hubs or increasing the height on the rear roll center block.
4. softer rear suspension
5. more droop in the front to allow the rear to bite harder
6. reduce anti squat to allow the rear to sag a little more and bite harder
7. add some weight to the rear if you're running the CE
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Old 07-31-2016, 08:22 PM   #3486
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That's the track the extra read droop really benefitted me. I ran on a wet day with holeshots. Was it blue groove today?

I've been debating to try in the front but thought the front had enough droop in comparison to the rear. Are you running limiters in your shocks? Thx
. Thx
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxxican View Post
Update installed the new XRAY long shock ends on the rear of the XB2. That alone made a big difference car was landing better rear traction was better. I installed them up to flush with the threads on the shock shafts.
Then I also installed them in the front it became a little difficult to get less than 22mm ride him eight. But the car handled even better. This is what was missing on the XB2. By the time I freshened my shocks and got used to the new handling. I shaved 0.5 sec.
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Old 07-31-2016, 09:27 PM   #3487
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As a temporary solution in my search of more rear droop, I followed the advise you guys gave me and I removed the limiter inside the body itself and went -1 on the shock ends. My droop is now acceptable and I will be testing it at my local LHS/track this week. I'm excited to see the difference.
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Old 07-31-2016, 10:42 PM   #3488
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeR View Post
With my testing with regard to alloy or carbon- Alloy chassis has always provided more traction/stability on clay than a carbon chassis.
And a flexible carbon chassis was always slower than a stiff carbon chassis.

A stiff carbon chassis provides crisper handling and generally more predictable than a 'flexy' carbon chassis... flexy carbon chassis would tend to 'bounce' on landing doubles and snap loose through rough sections if your line wasn't perfect thus why Exotek spec'd the stiffest weave carbon fiber.

Alloy chassis- low to medium grip tracks= easy to drive.
Carbon chassis- medium to high grip tracks= more responsive.
Great info. Thanks.
I'll stick with "easy to drive" for now, since I'm running a 7.5 and usually at OCRC, which I would classify as medium. But if I ever shift this car to stock, the CF chassis may make sense.

I like exotek parts too. I've found the quality good for several different cars that I've bought parts for.
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Old 08-01-2016, 06:36 AM   #3489
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Old 08-03-2016, 07:46 PM   #3490
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Originally Posted by Woulvesbaine View Post
Great info. Thanks.
I'll stick with "easy to drive" for now, since I'm running a 7.5 and usually at OCRC, which I would classify as medium. But if I ever shift this car to stock, the CF chassis may make sense.

I like exotek parts too. I've found the quality good for several different cars that I've bought parts for.
Sorry, been traveling this week. Kindly appreciated thanks!
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Old 08-03-2016, 11:55 PM   #3491
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This is a very helpful post and answers a lot of my questions. Thanks for posting this
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeR View Post
With my testing with regard to alloy or carbon- Alloy chassis has always provided more traction/stability on clay than a carbon chassis.
And a flexible carbon chassis was always slower than a stiff carbon chassis.

A stiff carbon chassis provides crisper handling and generally more predictable than a 'flexy' carbon chassis... flexy carbon chassis would tend to 'bounce' on landing doubles and snap loose through rough sections if your line wasn't perfect thus why Exotek spec'd the stiffest weave carbon fiber.

Alloy chassis- low to medium grip tracks= easy to drive.
Carbon chassis- medium to high grip tracks= more responsive.
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Old 08-04-2016, 12:06 AM   #3492
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Originally Posted by MikeR View Post
Sorry, been traveling this week. Kindly appreciated thanks!
Keep that info coming. Do you race at SDRC or OCRC?
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Old 08-04-2016, 12:20 AM   #3493
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Wonder if exotek would ever consider making a 3 gear for the xb2 carpet. I prefer my laydown but always miss the punch of the 3 gear in my de
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Old 08-05-2016, 01:40 AM   #3494
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Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg View Post
Bezerk looks like a great way to get more drop and lower the center of gravity. Ordered one to try. Thanks.
did your order right from their Australian website or somewhere else?

Thank you
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Old 08-05-2016, 02:37 AM   #3495
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Website. Keep in mind it's in AUD so was a nice surprise to see the cost go down. Ended up Sending him an email with what I wanted before I purchased as I had some questions about shipping and customization. He was very responsive. I purchased the carbon rear tower mostly because I liked the look of it. Now that Xray has the 21mm Rod ends I cant imagine needing any more droop.

i
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did your order right from their Australian website or somewhere else?

Thank you
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