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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 07-22-2016, 10:57 AM   #3421
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Droop isn't measured like 1/8th or onroad for the most part. Normally I use stroke, which is the length of the shaft between the bottom of the shock seal cap and the top of the lower shock ball.
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Old 07-22-2016, 10:59 AM   #3422
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Another method I use is overall shock length, I did this with the xb2 because of he shorter shock bodies on the rear. This allowed me to use the setup notes from my previous cars to my advantage.
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Old 07-22-2016, 11:01 AM   #3423
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
Droop isn't measured like 1/8th or onroad for the most part. Normally I use stroke, which is the length of the shaft between the bottom of the shock seal cap and the top of the lower shock ball.
i wish they used that on setup sheets. the hudy/xray setup sheets basically try and make it so you have to get their system because everything is based off of using the 20mm blocks for camber, toe, and droop as well. its smart but its kind of a pain because their stuff is so expensive lol. i dont mind paying for the car and for the plastics, but all the aluminum and various parts and accessories are super expensive. ive spent a fortune already. happily but just trying to be smart about what i do for setup.

setup is important to me, despite me not being the most competitive racer due to time, i like to have a consistent, accurate, and repeatable setup. not being able to practice or race as often as i like means i have to TRUST my car and have it setup as to not have other avoidable factors playing into mistakes.
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Old 07-22-2016, 01:36 PM   #3424
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i use the limiters.. since there is no droop screws.. and measure from the bottom of the shock to the shock end.

the TC wheels have the same size hole as the axels for the buggy.. they are not the same size diameter wise as the wheels and tires on the buggy.. i just use it for the flat surface.. at a static ride height.. no blocks underneath..

if you plan on using blocks.. or ride height blocks.. you cant use the TC flat wheels, or other wheels for that matter.. simple reason.. the rollouts are different.

when i use the 1/8 flat wheels from xray.. again.. its just static ride height.. car is not on blocks.. reason.. not every tire has the same overall rollout.. some are different.. different brands have a flatter profile.. different foams have a different profile as well..
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Old 07-22-2016, 02:08 PM   #3425
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
i use the limiters.. since there is no droop screws.. and measure from the bottom of the shock to the shock end.

the TC wheels have the same size hole as the axels for the buggy.. they are not the same size diameter wise as the wheels and tires on the buggy.. i just use it for the flat surface.. at a static ride height.. no blocks underneath..

if you plan on using blocks.. or ride height blocks.. you cant use the TC flat wheels, or other wheels for that matter.. simple reason.. the rollouts are different.

when i use the 1/8 flat wheels from xray.. again.. its just static ride height.. car is not on blocks.. reason.. not every tire has the same overall rollout.. some are different.. different brands have a flatter profile.. different foams have a different profile as well..
i plan on using the DE setup wheels which will be the same diameter as 1/10 buggy wheels, besides the squish factor.

so wouldn't that be close enough to where i could set initial ride height with my race tires and the GHEA ride height blocks...

then put the DE setup wheels and push the chassis to the blocks (from the initial ride height) on and measure camber, toe, etc. then put the race wheels back on, slide the blocks back under the chassis and double check settings.

this would give me a consistent, fairly accurate, and definitely repeatable method...right?

OR

i could do some testing with the 2-3 different tire sets i run and figure out how many mm's i lose with each settled tire, write that down. then just do my entire setup, including ride height with the setup wheels and just account for the slight change in ride height from the tires...thoughts?
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Old 07-22-2016, 02:38 PM   #3426
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yea.. if your blocks are set to your ride height.. yes.. you can.. as long as your comfortable with the diameter of the setup wheels.. you could measure diameter of different wheel tire combinations.. if they are close.. then no worries.. use the DE wheels..

me personally.. since i use the TC setup wheels.. they are much smaller in diameter.. i couldnt do what your wanting to do.. same reason i dont do that with the 1/8 hudy setup wheels.. puts the axel at a different height than the actual race wheels do.
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Old 07-23-2016, 12:05 PM   #3427
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I was wondering if there is a setup station that can be used for xb2 buggy and the t4 TC. Maybe using just the different plates or something. I've never used one before so I'm not real familiar with them. Mainly want to use it for camber and toe settings.
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Old 07-23-2016, 06:56 PM   #3428
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Originally Posted by Slapjack View Post
I was wondering if there is a setup station that can be used for xb2 buggy and the t4 TC. Maybe using just the different plates or something. I've never used one before so I'm not real familiar with them. Mainly want to use it for camber and toe settings.
the 1/10 on road or off road setup will work for both but you have to get the approproate toe plate for either. also whatever system you have the height will be wrong so you would have to account for that or put the 1/10 on road system on blocks to match the height of 1/10 off road wheels, i think theyre a bit bigger.
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Old 07-23-2016, 06:57 PM   #3429
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
yea.. if your blocks are set to your ride height.. yes.. you can.. as long as your comfortable with the diameter of the setup wheels.. you could measure diameter of different wheel tire combinations.. if they are close.. then no worries.. use the DE wheels..

me personally.. since i use the TC setup wheels.. they are much smaller in diameter.. i couldnt do what your wanting to do.. same reason i dont do that with the 1/8 hudy setup wheels.. puts the axel at a different height than the actual race wheels do.
ok thanks for the info. now im stuck between getting the setup system or not..
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Old 07-23-2016, 07:28 PM   #3430
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
the 1/10 on road or off road setup will work for both but you have to get the approproate toe plate for either. also whatever system you have the height will be wrong so you would have to account for that or put the 1/10 on road system on blocks to match the height of 1/10 off road wheels, i think theyre a bit bigger.
Thanks for the reply but what does the height have to do with the camber and toe settings? Do I really need to worry about that? Why does the height matter if you could explain more
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Last edited by Slapjack; 07-23-2016 at 07:38 PM.
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Old 07-23-2016, 08:32 PM   #3431
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Thanks for the reply but what does the height have to do with the camber and toe settings? Do I really need to worry about that? Why does the height matter if you could explain more
well if you setup with blocks under the car for consistency the axles should be at the same height as the wheels you use on the car.

camber toe etc change as ride height changes.

so it would just be a little inconsistent if you had one station that didn't have the axles at the appropriate height for that car. it's still doable just more difficult and a little less consistent, accurate, or repeatable.

because you would have to set your ride height with your normal wheels, then put it on the setup system, and then compress the suspension and hope that it sits where your actual ride height is. but typically you want to put blocks under the car on the setup station to put the car at your exact ride height.

knowing that, theoretically, you could just compensate for the difference in height at the axles (on the setup system) and adjust the droop/ride height blocks under the car to compensate for that difference and have the suspension sit at the same angle as your car would at it's correct ride height with the wheels that are for that car.

sorry if thats confusing its hard to explain over text.
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Old 07-24-2016, 01:05 PM   #3432
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How much does it cost to convert a ce to the dirt version?
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Old 07-25-2016, 01:32 AM   #3433
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How much does it cost to convert a ce to the dirt version?
I did it and I haven't used my DE transmission in 2-3 months. I got some parts off ebay and some at the LHS. With the ball diff it cost me just over 150. That's complete...I just add my slipper
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Old 07-25-2016, 06:25 AM   #3434
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I just ordered Schumacher stagger front premounted and mini pin rears unmounted. I run on green carpet and I am wondering which tires are better for that (proline pin points/Wedges or the schumachers I just bought).
The other question I had is about the wheels. Are there front wheels that I can buy that are the correct width for the wedge fronts or will have to cut the wheels to fit. I know I saw a post on here awhile back about how to cut the wheels but I can't find it now. can someone point me to it. But I would prefer to just buy a set that are the right width if they exist.
I wasn't sure how that worked so that is why I just ordered the schumachers because they were premounted and they will arrive the day I race and didn't want to mess around with trying to cut wheels and mount them when I get to the track.
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Old 07-25-2016, 07:20 AM   #3435
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Originally Posted by Slapjack View Post
I just ordered Schumacher stagger front premounted and mini pin rears unmounted. I run on green carpet and I am wondering which tires are better for that (proline pin points/Wedges or the schumachers I just bought).
The other question I had is about the wheels. Are there front wheels that I can buy that are the correct width for the wedge fronts or will have to cut the wheels to fit. I know I saw a post on here awhile back about how to cut the wheels but I can't find it now. can someone point me to it. But I would prefer to just buy a set that are the right width if they exist.
I wasn't sure how that worked so that is why I just ordered the schumachers because they were premounted and they will arrive the day I race and didn't want to mess around with trying to cut wheels and mount them when I get to the track.
most people will say the schumachers are the best. i would have to agree as well. they've just been doing it the longest and have it down. other companies are still new to making astro/carpet tires and quite honestly the compounds are different. schumacher has a very authentic rubber feel while many other brands feel notably more synthetic. IMO anyway...
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