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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 07-11-2016, 10:29 AM   #3376
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Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars View Post
any word on status of RM conversion from Xray?
Why? The stand up 3 gear or even the 4 gear work really well at your track.

You racing this weekend?
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Old 07-11-2016, 03:27 PM   #3377
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Daniel - When you mention the car has too much rear end grip, are you having a hard time rotating around corners and losing speed cornering? When I use your rear shock setup on the inside hole of tower and middle on the arm, I had this problem. If I moved the arm to the inner hole, I rotated much better but lost grip and became a little unpredictable. What are your thoughts on the above and have you modified your setup?

Quote:
Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
i kind of agree.. the 3 gear laydown would help.. like mentioned.. the car has sooo much rear end grip.. that in order to get speed.. you have to take away rear grip.. which in turn makes the car unpredictable.. and the little off pace.. yea.. i can see that as well.. but i attest it to just not having the setup just right.. and by off pace.. i mean.. just barely..
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Old 07-11-2016, 04:01 PM   #3378
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Daniel - When you mention the car has too much rear end grip, are you having a hard time rotating around corners and losing speed cornering? When I use your rear shock setup on the inside hole of tower and middle on the arm, I had this problem. If I moved the arm to the inner hole, I rotated much better but lost grip and became a little unpredictable. What are your thoughts on the above and have you modified your setup?
I have same problem before but i add shim inner rear camber link and longer link and great rear traction.
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Old 07-11-2016, 04:05 PM   #3379
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forgive me if I missed this in the thread. I understand I can use a Yokomo diff parts or the MIP 22 diff parts with shimming as per the wiki. Thanks for that BTW. My question is can I use The MIP TLR 22 Puck kit? or if I want pucks I need the Bmax puck kit? MIP# 14145? I don't see this kit on Amain, just MIP homepage it seems.

Thanks in advance!
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Old 07-11-2016, 04:28 PM   #3380
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I've also found a longer rear link to be better. Farthest out on the hub with inner most link on medium to high bite clay has been optimal for me. I'm still experimenting though. As if that ever ends...hahah
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Old 07-11-2016, 07:29 PM   #3381
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Yes, adding a shim on the ball stud mount added roll and gave me more traction. I thought the shorter link gave more camber gain and more traction. Where are you on the hub? Thx
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Originally Posted by raved007 View Post
I have same problem before but i add shim inner rear camber link and longer link and great rear traction.
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Old 07-11-2016, 07:47 PM   #3382
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You are correct, shorter link = more camber gain. This typically creates more side bite at the expense of forward bite. As the car transfers weight to the rear under acceleration if the rear tires are leaning too much they won't give a proper contact patch. Longer link keeps the tires flatter for more forward bite. When the track comes up with more traction I'm doing wheelies with the longer link.
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Old 07-11-2016, 07:54 PM   #3383
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Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Yes, adding a shim on the ball stud mount added roll and gave me more traction. I thought the shorter link gave more camber gain and more traction. Where are you on the hub? Thx
Inner hole closed to wheels/midle hole. Longest link
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Old 07-11-2016, 08:49 PM   #3384
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 13Maschine View Post
forgive me if I missed this in the thread. I understand I can use a Yokomo diff parts or the MIP 22 diff parts with shimming as per the wiki. Thanks for that BTW. My question is can I use The MIP TLR 22 Puck kit? or if I want pucks I need the Bmax puck kit? MIP# 14145? I don't see this kit on Amain, just MIP homepage it seems.

Thanks in advance!
Can anyone answer this one? Thanks!
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Old 07-11-2016, 09:13 PM   #3385
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I guess I've got to pay attention better on which part of the turn im washing out when losing traction on medium grip. It's usually mid turn so the shorter link may help me. Getting a few sets of extra turnbuckle so can make more changes on the fly instead of unscrewing and measuring links all the time. Thx man.

Sorry I cant answer your picks question. Just recall the tlr/Yokomo siff drops right in with the Xray gear, shims on both sides, and the Yok bmax bones

Quote:
Originally Posted by 13Maschine View Post
You are correct, shorter link = more camber gain. This typically creates more side bite at the expense of forward bite. As the car transfers weight to the rear under acceleration if the rear tires are leaning too much they won't give a proper contact patch. Longer link keeps the tires flatter for more forward bite. When the track comes up with more traction I'm doing wheelies with the longer link.
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Old 07-12-2016, 07:24 AM   #3386
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Daniel - When you mention the car has too much rear end grip, are you having a hard time rotating around corners and losing speed cornering? When I use your rear shock setup on the inside hole of tower and middle on the arm, I had this problem. If I moved the arm to the inner hole, I rotated much better but lost grip and became a little unpredictable. What are your thoughts on the above and have you modified your setup?


I run on carpet. I would like to free it up when I round corners. What are few things I can try?
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Old 07-12-2016, 09:01 AM   #3387
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I run on carpet. I would like to free it up when I round corners. What are few things I can try?
Take away some rear toe.
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Old 07-12-2016, 09:02 AM   #3388
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Quick fix for me was moving the shock to the inner hole on the rear arm. That and adding shims to the camber link. That was for medium bite though and wonder if it will traction roll...
Quote:
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I run on carpet. I would like to free it up when I round corners. What are few things I can try?
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Old 07-13-2016, 03:28 PM   #3389
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Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
i kind of agree.. the 3 gear laydown would help.. like mentioned.. the car has sooo much rear end grip.. that in order to get speed.. you have to take away rear grip.. which in turn makes the car unpredictable.. and the little off pace.. yea.. i can see that as well.. but i attest it to just not having the setup just right.. and by off pace.. i mean.. just barely..
How are you taking away rear grip?
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Old 07-13-2016, 03:33 PM   #3390
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Originally Posted by yodace View Post
I run on carpet. I would like to free it up when I round corners. What are few things I can try?
Carbon arms, hard parts, stiffer rear spring, heavier rear oil, move the hubs back, move the shocks out on the arm, wider rear hexs, raise the rear roll center by moving the hinge pins up and/or lowering the rear camber link, move the battery forward, less toe, more anti squat, and chassis rake (lower the front in relation to the rear).

I'd also do more things to make the front more aggressive. The 0-slot akkerman plates help a bunch and I rarely see anyone mention them, not sure if you've tried that.

I see everyone talking about getting more steering from moving the rear shocks to the inner hole on the rear arm. I think you're getting more steering because you're getting faster weight transfer. This should add rear grip coming out of the corners as it essentially makes the spring softer, as well as making the car less stable. I like this position as long as the track doesn't have any really fast sections where I need the extra stability.
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