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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 06-27-2016, 01:11 PM   #3301
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
i dont think they will give you 2x the wear. i personally find my outdrives last longer on the XRAY's than my previous TLR cars. I have the Hudy tool and i change the pins when necessary. I thought the outdrives of Hudy hardened steel were very nice...
Is there a gear diff that can be used made by any other manufacturers. Like how losi guys run the serpent gear diffs. I only ask cause it is insane the price of replacing the out drives most complete gear diffs are about the same price as just the xray out drives. I have yet to get a xb2 but I have felt my xb4 out drives do not last nearly as long as any of my other cars I've owned. The out drives pricing is the only thing keeping me from buying a xb2 at this point.
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Old 06-27-2016, 01:40 PM   #3302
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Is there a gear diff that can be used made by any other manufacturers. Like how losi guys run the serpent gear diffs. I only ask cause it is insane the price of replacing the out drives most complete gear diffs are about the same price as just the xray out drives. I have yet to get a xb2 but I have felt my xb4 out drives do not last nearly as long as any of my other cars I've owned. The out drives pricing is the only thing keeping me from buying a xb2 at this point.
I don't mess around too much with gear diffs, so I'm not sure if another could be transplanted.

I do have plans to pickup a CE sometime in the next few months, and could figure it out once I have one in my hands.
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Old 06-27-2016, 02:14 PM   #3303
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I don't mess around too much with gear diffs, so I'm not sure if another could be transplanted.

I do have plans to pickup a CE sometime in the next few months, and could figure it out once I have one in my hands.
I used the Serpent gear diff in my TLR 22 3.0, it was amazing. Would be cool if the Serpent ball diff fit in the XRAY.

So I guess I'm going to try to follow the instructions you gave for the XRAY diff...glue the diff rings, use the AE spring, and set properly. Do you glue the diff rings all the way around or just a dab in 1-2 spots? Just want to make sure I do that properly.
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Old 06-27-2016, 02:30 PM   #3304
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I used the Serpent gear diff in my TLR 22 3.0, it was amazing. Would be cool if the Serpent ball diff fit in the XRAY.

So I guess I'm going to try to follow the instructions you gave for the XRAY diff...glue the diff rings, use the AE spring, and set properly. Do you glue the diff rings all the way around or just a dab in 1-2 spots? Just want to make sure I do that properly.
Just a dab.

If the serpent fit in the Losi, it'll fit in the Xray. The question will be how you can use the gear from the xray, as it's 1 tooth larger than the Losi.
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Old 06-27-2016, 04:57 PM   #3305
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
Just a dab.

If the serpent fit in the Losi, it'll fit in the Xray. The question will be how you can use the gear from the xray, as it's 1 tooth larger than the Losi.
yeah i hadn't looked into that.

hey socket, can you help me with my setup and suspension for my CE for med-high bite clay? when the track is new we run electrons and when its worn in we run primes. I will run a low pro servo now, and i have a 25g under battery weight if need be. i also have the xray ball diff. just FYI i run mod with a 6.5t motor. I also have a lot of aluminum upgrades like front pivot, RR exotek hanger (+4g), camber blocks, rear hubs, servo mounts, steering plate (not arms), and servo horn.

1. What combo of plastics? also keep in mind i run on carpet and astro as well so the less swapping the better.

2. i have 2x1.6 front and 2x1.7 rear. what cst oil should i run? i have hudy oils...

3. considering above...what springs should I run and at what ride height and bump stop/shim setup?

4. any other recomendations or setup sheets that you would recommend to me?
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Old 06-27-2016, 05:30 PM   #3306
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Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
yeah i hadn't looked into that.

hey socket, can you help me with my setup and suspension for my CE for med-high bite clay? when the track is new we run electrons and when its worn in we run primes. I will run a low pro servo now, and i have a 25g under battery weight if need be. i also have the xray ball diff. just FYI i run mod with a 6.5t motor. I also have a lot of aluminum upgrades like front pivot, RR exotek hanger (+4g), camber blocks, rear hubs, servo mounts, steering plate (not arms), and servo horn.

1. What combo of plastics? also keep in mind i run on carpet and astro as well so the less swapping the better.

2. i have 2x1.6 front and 2x1.7 rear. what cst oil should i run? i have hudy oils...

3. considering above...what springs should I run and at what ride height and bump stop/shim setup?

4. any other recomendations or setup sheets that you would recommend to me?
Dgrobe would be better to answer than I; I hardly run on high bite, and have the DE car. I would look for one of his setups and start there for dirt.

I'll hopefully get some time at SRS this weekend, and can report back how the car felt.

Edit: Join XB2 Nation and ask there, we have several fast guys with solid high bite setups!
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Old 06-27-2016, 05:51 PM   #3307
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Originally Posted by jt409 View Post
Is there a gear diff that can be used made by any other manufacturers. Like how losi guys run the serpent gear diffs. I only ask cause it is insane the price of replacing the out drives most complete gear diffs are about the same price as just the xray out drives. I have yet to get a xb2 but I have felt my xb4 out drives do not last nearly as long as any of my other cars I've owned. The out drives pricing is the only thing keeping me from buying a xb2 at this point.
The pins wear out before the outdrives do. If you replace the pins before they destroy the outdrives it is a non-issue
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Old 06-27-2016, 05:53 PM   #3308
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The pins wear out before the outdrives do. If you replace the pins before they destroy the outdrives it is a non-issue
Not at all my experience. I have a bag of 400 pins, since Bent said the outdrives won't wear if you replace your pins periodically, I took on that challenge.

I replaced pins every single week, and my outdrives lasted just under 8 weeks, racing twice a week.
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Old 06-27-2016, 06:10 PM   #3309
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Not at all my experience. I have a bag of 400 pins, since Bent said the outdrives won't wear if you replace your pins periodically, I took on that challenge.

I replaced pins every single week, and my outdrives lasted just under 8 weeks, racing twice a week.
I havnt touched the pins in my XB2, but I have in my XB4 and my outdrives are in outstanding condition on that. Its been race roughly once a week for over 5 months now with random practice days here and there
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Old 06-27-2016, 06:34 PM   #3310
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Dgrobe would be better to answer than I; I hardly run on high bite, and have the DE car. I would look for one of his setups and start there for dirt.

I'll hopefully get some time at SRS this weekend, and can report back how the car felt.

Edit: Join XB2 Nation and ask there, we have several fast guys with solid high bite setups!
yeah i am part of that group. i will ask around, thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RobsRacin View Post
I havnt touched the pins in my XB2, but I have in my XB4 and my outdrives are in outstanding condition on that. Its been race roughly once a week for over 5 months now with random practice days here and there
i have a similar experience with my xb4. i have had it for a couple of months now using it 1-2 times a week.

i think it has a lot to do with driving styles, socket.

i tend to drive smooth rolling on and off the power and typically rolling on the power right as i land, not necessarily punching it either before i land or right as i land. i think that has a lot to do with it. do you drive overly aggressive perhaps? then i could see flying through outdrives. or maybe your setup has a lot of plunge to it?

also i dont see how larger pins would wear outdrives out faster than smaller pins. smaller pins would have a more concentrated pressure point as well as a sharper edge. the larger pins would have a more smooth and forgiving edge, which makes a big diff when at angles and such
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Old 06-27-2016, 07:12 PM   #3311
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What pins are the correct pins. I see a bunch of xray pins on amain that all show there for the xb2
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Old 06-28-2016, 06:00 AM   #3312
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What pins are the correct pins. I see a bunch of xray pins on amain that all show there for the xb2
off the top of my head i believe they are 3x12mm
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Old 06-28-2016, 09:34 AM   #3313
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hudy 3x12 drive pins for the drive shaft.

http://www.hudy.net/xhudy/products/p...e89d72f1615ca5
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Old 06-28-2016, 11:17 AM   #3314
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Thanks for the help. I just traded my 22 3.0 for a xb2 ce so I'm putting together an order of replacement parts and hop ups for it.
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Old 06-28-2016, 02:22 PM   #3315
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JT409...the MAC Attack :P

I have the Hudy tool and the pins here if you need to replace them Jamie.
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