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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 06-27-2016, 06:27 AM   #3286
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This shim:

https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070


This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Edit: I've also updated the wiki to reflect this
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Old 06-27-2016, 06:31 AM   #3287
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Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
oh i see. i wasnt concerned with the cost to be honest, i like XRAY stuff so i just bite the bullet.
I'm right with you. Parts like arms, towers, etc, I can bite the bullet and deal with the small added cost.

However the metal parts are a bit too rich for me. Not enough to make me switch platforms. I've really come to enjoy this car, and am convinced it's a more than capable platform.

I also have a boat load of cash in spares at this point, so I think I'll see it through.
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Old 06-27-2016, 06:43 AM   #3288
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
I'm right with you. Parts like arms, towers, etc, I can bite the bullet and deal with the small added cost.

However the metal parts are a bit too rich for me. Not enough to make me switch platforms. I've really come to enjoy this car, and am convinced it's a more than capable platform.

I also have a boat load of cash in spares at this point, so I think I'll see it through.
thanks socket, i appreciate it.

and yeah i hear you, they are damn pricey but once you get your car setup and have some spares, the purchasing is minimal so it evens out a bit.

any tips on adjusting the diff with the AE spring? any guidelines you follow that seem to work well with this car? also, do you still need to glue the rings with the AE spring or no?
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Last edited by lyons238; 06-27-2016 at 06:53 AM.
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Old 06-27-2016, 06:55 AM   #3289
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Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
thanks socket, i appreciate it.

and yeah i hear you, they are damn pricey but once you get your car setup and have some spares, the purchasing is minimal so it evens out a bit.

any tips on adjusting the diff with the AE spring? any guidelines you follow that seem to work well with this car?
I'd tell you to follow the usual "diff break in" guide.

The issue I kept running into was, the diff would be MONEY. I'd run 1 heat, and it'd get loose. So I'd tighten it up and get stuck between too tight or too loose.

https://youtu.be/hKpW9nqOok4

I also updated the Wiki with the alloy horn I've been using, as well as the exotek parts.
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Old 06-27-2016, 07:08 AM   #3290
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
I'd tell you to follow the usual "diff break in" guide.

The issue I kept running into was, the diff would be MONEY. I'd run 1 heat, and it'd get loose. So I'd tighten it up and get stuck between too tight or too loose.

https://youtu.be/hKpW9nqOok4

I also updated the Wiki with the alloy horn I've been using, as well as the exotek parts.
thanks m8. any comment on if i still glue the diff rings even with the AE spring? also you didnt have the problem you just mentioned with the AE spring correct?
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Old 06-27-2016, 08:56 AM   #3291
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
I'd tell you to follow the usual "diff break in" guide.

The issue I kept running into was, the diff would be MONEY. I'd run 1 heat, and it'd get loose. So I'd tighten it up and get stuck between too tight or too loose.

https://youtu.be/hKpW9nqOok4

I also updated the Wiki with the alloy horn I've been using, as well as the exotek parts.

Are u using the xray alloy servo horn?
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Old 06-27-2016, 09:02 AM   #3292
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yodace View Post
Are u using the xray alloy servo horn?
I have the hudy 3 hole alum servo horn
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Old 06-27-2016, 09:04 AM   #3293
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Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
I have the hudy 3 hole alum servo horn

Does it work ok with the xb2? Did u have to dremel it? What's a good low profile servo?
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Old 06-27-2016, 09:12 AM   #3294
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Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
thanks m8. any comment on if i still glue the diff rings even with the AE spring? also you didnt have the problem you just mentioned with the AE spring correct?
I hadn't glued diff rings since my rc10t3. After the xray, I do so now every diff I do.

They pop right off if needed, so don't think it's permanent.
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Old 06-27-2016, 09:13 AM   #3295
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Are u using the xray alloy servo horn?
No, I posted a link to the protek horn I'm using in the wiki. It has dual clamping screws which is a very nice addition.
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Old 06-27-2016, 10:06 AM   #3296
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I've got way too many spares as well. Haven't broken anything. Sitting on a bunch of hard and medium plastics.

I am going to try the Yokomo diff though. My view is if I'm already going to take the diff apart, get a new spring, mess with spacers, glue diff rings, etc, I may as well try this out. 1st - the Yokomo diff is know for being very smooth with no mods. It's 1/2 the cost, and 2x the longevity in wear. I have 2 xb2's and with $60 outdrives that will be a large cost over time. Wish I would have tried this before buying an extreme amount of replacement plastics.. BTW - anyone have any brass mounts they want to trade/sell?

Quote:
Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
thanks socket, i appreciate it.

and yeah i hear you, they are damn pricey but once you get your car setup and have some spares, the purchasing is minimal so it evens out a bit.

any tips on adjusting the diff with the AE spring? any guidelines you follow that seem to work well with this car? also, do you still need to glue the rings with the AE spring or no?
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Old 06-27-2016, 11:45 AM   #3297
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Originally Posted by JAE View Post
I've got way too many spares as well. Haven't broken anything. Sitting on a bunch of hard and medium plastics.

I am going to try the Yokomo diff though. My view is if I'm already going to take the diff apart, get a new spring, mess with spacers, glue diff rings, etc, I may as well try this out. 1st - the Yokomo diff is know for being very smooth with no mods. It's 1/2 the cost, and 2x the longevity in wear. I have 2 xb2's and with $60 outdrives that will be a large cost over time. Wish I would have tried this before buying an extreme amount of replacement plastics.. BTW - anyone have any brass mounts they want to trade/sell?
i dont think they will give you 2x the wear. i personally find my outdrives last longer on the XRAY's than my previous TLR cars. I have the Hudy tool and i change the pins when necessary. I thought the outdrives of Hudy hardened steel were very nice...
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Old 06-27-2016, 12:32 PM   #3298
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I see where it shows to the -.75 hexes front and +3.75 for the rears to run b5m wheels but if I wanted to get exotek hexes what is the equivalent sizes since it just gives a size.
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Old 06-27-2016, 12:57 PM   #3299
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Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
i dont think they will give you 2x the wear. i personally find my outdrives last longer on the XRAY's than my previous TLR cars. I have the Hudy tool and i change the pins when necessary. I thought the outdrives of Hudy hardened steel were very nice...
Try them

I have, and can attest to it. I too have a pin tool, and religiously repined the drive shafts. Didn't make the wear any better unfortunately.

But the issue STILL isn't the wear. It's the cost. $60 for outdrives is insane, my wife says I can make reasons to afford many over priced things, but even this one eludes me.

Even if I were a 50% off team racer, $30 is insane. YZ2 outdrives are $15 for the SET.

The smaller pin I believe allows them to last longer.
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Old 06-27-2016, 12:58 PM   #3300
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Originally Posted by jt409 View Post
I see where it shows to the -.75 hexes front and +3.75 for the rears to run b5m wheels but if I wanted to get exotek hexes what is the equivalent sizes since it just gives a size.

Rear aren't needed in my experience. Buy a set of b5m wheels, put them on with stock hexes and measure from outside of the rim on the left to the outside of the rim on the right.

Do the same with stock wheels. I got the same measurement.

Fronts - I'm not sure.
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