333LikesXray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
05-04-2019, 06:44 PM - Wikipost
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06-23-2016, 10:15 PM
#3271
Correct. I hear the track it getting redone now for regionals. I copied your rear block set up. I have associated yellow front gray rear. All hard plastics.All else basically stock. CE edition. Any suggestions? As I need the steering everywhere else, it was just that one turn that I kept traction rolling.
06-24-2016, 05:03 AM
#3272
18-19mm ride height as well? The car has a ton of droop in the front with the stock setup, reducing that will make the car less aggressive and lean less.
For the new layout you'll probably want to go one softer on springs. Then give the car some more rear toe. I don't think I'll have to change much else on my car for regionals, assuming traction is significantly less.
For the new layout you'll probably want to go one softer on springs. Then give the car some more rear toe. I don't think I'll have to change much else on my car for regionals, assuming traction is significantly less.
06-24-2016, 05:17 AM
#3273
The lp servos sure do give more space!
06-24-2016, 05:23 AM
#3274
Opinion: regarding the DE, in comparison with my previous B5m, my experience so far has been the car drives in between a laydown and traditional mid motor. Doesn't get quite the same traction and can't push it as hard but I'm cornering way faster and have much faster laps. I also have a CE, where my fast lap times are the fastest, but am less consistent in med/med-high grip (not the best driver, yet). Would this be an accurate consensus here or am I "doing it wrong"? All in all its the best buggy I've driven.
I'll tell you right now, the laydown cars fly at ocrc, but you need to do little thing to get them more rear bite.
Medium plastics, exotek c mount, a little more rear toe, or tape the battery in. The avid slipper will help as well.
06-24-2016, 12:34 PM
#3275
18-19mm ride height as well? The car has a ton of droop in the front with the stock setup, reducing that will make the car less aggressive and lean less.
For the new layout you'll probably want to go one softer on springs. Then give the car some more rear toe. I don't think I'll have to change much else on my car for regionals, assuming traction is significantly less.
For the new layout you'll probably want to go one softer on springs. Then give the car some more rear toe. I don't think I'll have to change much else on my car for regionals, assuming traction is significantly less.
06-24-2016, 12:38 PM
#3276
Tape the battery in, so as to remove battery brace and increase flex I assume? Would you put in the medium plastics on the arms, or the medium side rails 1st? thx.
The DE I don't think makes the mechanical grip the b5m does out of the box, however there are tricks to make it so.
I'll tell you right now, the laydown cars fly at ocrc, but you need to do little thing to get them more rear bite.
Medium plastics, exotek c mount, a little more rear toe, or tape the battery in. The avid slipper will help as well.
I'll tell you right now, the laydown cars fly at ocrc, but you need to do little thing to get them more rear bite.
Medium plastics, exotek c mount, a little more rear toe, or tape the battery in. The avid slipper will help as well.
06-24-2016, 12:46 PM
#3277
It's hard to say, because when you add flex, you're also scrubbing speed. This is more of a feel question, which can only be answered by you. Some like a car that is ultra stiff and doesn't scrub any speed. I like a car that will give up some speed for rear bite personally. I would tell you to take a day or two of pure testing and try the different combos and see what you like best.
06-24-2016, 01:21 PM
#3278
Thx - I'm just looking for optimum traction. Wheels pin is costing me much more lap time. My rear end is stock. I was thinking to remove the rear internal liniters. I already have 4 degrees toe. However anti-squat is at -2. Without getting into a lengthy debate about anti-squat, how much or lack thereof should I have to prevent wheel spin mid corner to on power exit? Thanks man
It's hard to say, because when you add flex, you're also scrubbing speed. This is more of a feel question, which can only be answered by you. Some like a car that is ultra stiff and doesn't scrub any speed. I like a car that will give up some speed for rear bite personally. I would tell you to take a day or two of pure testing and try the different combos and see what you like best.
06-24-2016, 02:10 PM
#3279
Thx - I'm just looking for optimum traction. Wheels pin is costing me much more lap time. My rear end is stock. I was thinking to remove the rear internal liniters. I already have 4 degrees toe. However anti-squat is at -2. Without getting into a lengthy debate about anti-squat, how much or lack thereof should I have to prevent wheel spin mid corner to on power exit? Thanks man
I'd start by setting my slipper perfectly, run a ball diff, and then work from there. Limiters can have an impact on mid corner, however, I wouldn't go there yet. Do you have a setup sheet of where you're at right now?
06-24-2016, 02:31 PM
#3280
CE. Bought cheap as a parts car and just grew to love it. Kit setup, with the exception the rear links are on the outer ballstud mount. Orig owner stripped the inner one. Only changes I've made are moving the shocks to the rear. Moved shock to inner hole on rear tower. 2mm shims on hub. 2mm shims on ballstud mount and 2mm shims on hubs. 3dot 2dot 30/27.5 f/r. 4 degrees toe -2 degrees anti squat (middle f/r)
Last edited by JAE; 06-24-2016 at 02:46 PM.
06-25-2016, 10:01 AM
#3281
Taped in the battery. Buggy is now Strapped. Didn't realize I could get so much more traction with this. wish the driver was as good as the buggy
06-27-2016, 06:04 AM
#3282
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (15)
why are people running yz2 diffs and drive shafts over the XRAY ones. I have the CE and in attempt to optimize my setup for med-high bite clay (i run on both carpet and clay) i purchased the XRAY ball diff. It looks to be of great quality so im just wondering why people are using the yz2 diff. i did a quick search and found people saying how to use the yz2 diff, but not why.
06-27-2016, 06:06 AM
#3283
why are people running yz2 diffs and drive shafts over the XRAY ones. I have the CE and in attempt to optimize my setup for med-high bite clay (i run on both carpet and clay) i purchased the XRAY ball diff. It looks to be of great quality so im just wondering why people are using the yz2 diff. i did a quick search and found people saying how to use the yz2 diff, but not why.
06-27-2016, 06:17 AM
#3284
why are people running yz2 diffs and drive shafts over the XRAY ones. I have the CE and in attempt to optimize my setup for med-high bite clay (i run on both carpet and clay) i purchased the XRAY ball diff. It looks to be of great quality so im just wondering why people are using the yz2 diff. i did a quick search and found people saying how to use the yz2 diff, but not why.
The yokomo diff is just as good, however the outdrives hold up much longer, and they're literally 1/8th the cost to replace. They're also a more "standard" size; the Losi outdrives are the same dimensions, allowing you to use other lower cost product.
The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.
OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.
06-27-2016, 06:23 AM
#3285
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (15)
oh i see. i wasnt concerned with the cost to be honest, i like XRAY stuff so i just bite the bullet.
can you provide a link to the actual AE spring, hasn't it been updated recently? also for the shims, what size 1mm shim?
can anyone else comment on this about the XRAY ball diffs?
thank you for the information i really appreciate it. though the outdrive/pin thing seems weird, i dont have any issues with any of my XRAY outdrives/pins. in fact, i actually think they last a long time. also i have the hudy tool and a ton of spares, so thats a non issue for me.
The outdrives wear VERY quickly. I was changing drive pins after every DAY of racing, they wore out in a month of usage. This is in 17.5 as well, with a well set slipper. On high bite with direct drive I could not need them lasting long at all.
The yokomo diff is just as good, however the outdrives hold up much longer, and they're literally 1/8th the cost to replace. They're also a more "standard" size; the Losi outdrives are the same dimensions, allowing you to use other lower cost product.
The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.
OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.
The yokomo diff is just as good, however the outdrives hold up much longer, and they're literally 1/8th the cost to replace. They're also a more "standard" size; the Losi outdrives are the same dimensions, allowing you to use other lower cost product.
The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.
OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.
can anyone else comment on this about the XRAY ball diffs?
thank you for the information i really appreciate it. though the outdrive/pin thing seems weird, i dont have any issues with any of my XRAY outdrives/pins. in fact, i actually think they last a long time. also i have the hudy tool and a ton of spares, so thats a non issue for me.