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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 06-20-2016, 03:12 PM   #3241
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
ive been running standard servo from the start.. i think you will be plenty happy with it.. not to mention.. it helps keep the front end on the ground.. once you get a setup you like.. its hard to keep the front down..
Basically the standard servo is around 18-25g heavier than a low pro. So the 25g weight under the battery should help balance that out if need be, right?

Any other thoughts on standard servo vs low pro with a CE car on med-high bite clay?

Also, when the track has been on the same layout and packed nicely everyone runs slicks, but when its a new layout everyone runs electrons. I wonder with the CE laydow trans AND a standard size servo if it would be best to run electrons or slicks when the track is worn in?
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Old 06-20-2016, 04:04 PM   #3242
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Daniel - Did you happen to try the brass 23/29 kickup? Wondering if the weight would be overkill and be detriment to the grip your setup created?My servo is a shorty at 55grams.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
ive been running standard servo from the start.. i think you will be plenty happy with it.. not to mention.. it helps keep the front end on the ground.. once you get a setup you like.. its hard to keep the front down..
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Old 06-20-2016, 04:05 PM   #3243
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Daniel - Did you happen to try the brass 23/29 kickup? Wondering if the weight would be overkill and be detriment to the grip your setup created?My servo is a shorty at 55grams.
Not the brass I have the aluminum one
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Old 06-20-2016, 04:42 PM   #3244
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I'm wondering how much an extra 40 grams of weight in the front would be detrimental to rear grip? Especially, for the gent above with a CE
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Old 06-20-2016, 09:50 PM   #3245
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Originally Posted by JAE View Post
I'm wondering how much an extra 40 grams of weight in the front would be detrimental to rear grip? Especially, for the gent above with a CE
Must have IMO for carpet. I tried to add weight to the front but there just is not enough spaces around the front to get enough with lead weights. Buggy jumped better and cornered a lot better on throttle.
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Old 06-21-2016, 07:03 AM   #3246
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So to conclude are we all at a consensus that running a beefy standard servo such as the Hitec 9360, weighing in at around 65g as apposed to a low pro at about 40g would be the best all around option for a CE on both carpet and med-high bite clay? The reason I like this Hitec servo is because it has a unique gear material arrangement with titanium as well and its brushless, has excellent speed, and plenty of torque for anything 1/10 scale +. It's a servo you don't have to worry about hitting a few pipes or cartwheeling, which we all know happens when your racing mostly due to other people and trying to avoid them etc.

On carpet I would run now under battery weight and on clay I have the option to run the battery weight?

This seems like it would give me the best of both worlds...also on clay I don't mind having a slightly heavier car it just seems to track better and smoother. Where on carpet I could run either a heavy or a light car as long as the grip is there.
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Old 06-21-2016, 07:06 AM   #3247
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
So to conclude are we all at a consensus that running a beefy standard servo such as the Hitec 9360, weighing in at around 65g as apposed to a low pro at about 40g would be the best all around option for a CE on both carpet and med-high bite clay? The reason I like this Hitec servo is because it has a unique gear material arrangement with titanium as well and its brushless, has excellent speed, and plenty of torque for anything 1/10 scale +. It's a servo you don't have to worry about hitting a few pipes or cartwheeling, which we all know happens when your racing mostly due to other people and trying to avoid them etc.

On carpet I would run now under battery weight and on clay I have the option to run the battery weight?

This seems like it would give me the best of both worlds...also on clay I don't mind having a slightly heavier car it just seems to track better and smoother. Where on carpet I could run either a heavy or a light car as long as the grip is there.
Test it and tell us your results.
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Old 06-21-2016, 07:53 AM   #3248
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
Test it and tell us your results.
It will cost me $175 to do this test. The Hitec 9360 is their top of the line servo for 10th scale and its not cheap. I was hoping to get some feedback first.
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Old 06-21-2016, 08:22 AM   #3249
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It will cost me $175 to do this test. The Hitec 9360 is their top of the line servo for 10th scale and its not cheap. I was hoping to get some feedback first.
Makes sense.

I've always liked heavy servos. I've tried low profile servos many, many times, in high bite, low bite, medium bite etc...

And have always come back to a full size boat anchor.

It's mostly my driving style, but I also like the way the car feels, the front always just feels more planted.
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Old 06-21-2016, 08:30 AM   #3250
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
Makes sense.

I've always liked heavy servos. I've tried low profile servos many, many times, in high bite, low bite, medium bite etc...

And have always come back to a full size boat anchor.

It's mostly my driving style, but I also like the way the car feels, the front always just feels more planted.
I think I tend to agree. I had a low profile servo in my TLR 22 3.0 and the thing would push at the end of straights or if i hit a small bump it was def too light in the front.

However, I'm new to the XB2, so I didn't want to go TOO front heavy being that I have the lay down trans etc.

But I think having the 25g weight under the battery will at least bring me back to the same weight bias as a low pro servo, or potentially even a little more rear biased. So I'm hoping I can get away with the Hitec 9360 servo and just run the weight if I need on clay and no weight on carpet.
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Old 06-21-2016, 08:32 AM   #3251
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even on my onroad car.. i got a low profile.. but added weight in that area..
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Old 06-21-2016, 08:49 AM   #3252
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even on my onroad car.. i got a low profile.. but added weight in that area..
were talking about running full size as apposed to low pro servos, maybe im not following..?
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Old 06-21-2016, 08:54 AM   #3253
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were talking about running full size as apposed to low pro servos, maybe im not following..?
correct.. i have a low profile servo in my onroad car.. then added weight back to that spot on the chassis..
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Old 06-21-2016, 09:00 AM   #3254
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correct.. i have a low profile servo in my onroad car.. then added weight back to that spot on the chassis..
Oh I see. Yeah it would be nice to have the option to have less weight in the front if need be. But I'm thinking the durability and specs of the Hitec 9360 servo are worth the potential weight bias negatives. Especially when considering I could just use weights in the rear/under battery to balance the car out. Not to mention the fact that I run a 6.5t motor, a slightly heavier car is not necessarily a bad thing.
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Old 06-21-2016, 03:01 PM   #3255
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I only run the LP servo for space in the CE car. I also run weight on top of it.

In the DE I run a standard servo.
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