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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 06-17-2016, 11:06 AM   #3226
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trekathlete View Post
First I apologize if this has been asked but before I got my car I read the first 100 pages of this forum and now there are double that. I just don't have the time to check and see if this has been asked sorry.

So I am converting my XB2 CE to go to dirt. Our carpet track closed and our dirt track is now revamped. Anyways I don't have the money to buy the DE and don't really want to buy extra parts. So I am
Trying to tune my CE to the track the best way possible.

I assume that going full flex will help except that some of the screws they list as flex screws seem to be vital to the cars performance. So which screws do I remove to gain the most flex?

I have already move the both axels forward to give more weight in the rear and moved the shocks to the rear position. Next I will be playing with suspension ( springs/oils/piston) but first I want to get everything mechanically setup for looser track.

Thanks everyone!
Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.
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Old 06-17-2016, 11:38 AM   #3227
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Updated the wiki. Please "sign" your wiki posts.
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Old 06-17-2016, 11:52 AM   #3228
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i bought the 4 gear trans....was there anything else i needed or was it included in the kit?
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Old 06-17-2016, 12:11 PM   #3229
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i bought the 4 gear trans....was there anything else i needed or was it included in the kit?
You'll need another cross pin, another set of idler gear bearings, and an idler gear.

I got all of my parts from A main. Do you have the CE or the DE? If the DE, then you could have just slightly drilled the case for the 4 gear addition to the 3 gear that came stock.

IF you have the CE, then you won't need any extra parts.
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Old 06-17-2016, 12:11 PM   #3230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
I love it when people blame equipment. Same people who think that since I charge at 50amps I'm faster because of it.

That said, there's a binding problem. Pull the pieces apart, sounds like swollen O rings or some flashing on the bushings, or a bent shock shaft.

The parts can't inherently do any of those functions themselves, they require a user to either put the parts together wrong, not presoak the orings, or crash and bend a shock shaft.
gotta love how you ask for advise and someones got to be a dick. shafts arent bent and shocks are built right ive checked all that. I can loosen the bottom cap and recenter the bushing and the shocks go back to being buttery smooth. and will stay that way for a few runs. this is a perfect example of why hardly anybody runs an xray. you cant even get simple advice without someone being an ass or a know it all. the b6 cant get here fast enough. everyone at my track runs associated and even the fastest guy there is always willing to help someone with there car. and not be a douche about it. im just going to put associated shocks on it and be done with it.
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Old 06-17-2016, 12:41 PM   #3231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
You'll need another cross pin, another set of idler gear bearings, and an idler gear.

I got all of my parts from A main. Do you have the CE or the DE? If the DE, then you could have just slightly drilled the case for the 4 gear addition to the 3 gear that came stock.

IF you have the CE, then you won't need any extra parts.
OK thanks


I do have the DE I just didn't want to drill the other one
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Old 06-17-2016, 12:58 PM   #3232
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Originally Posted by walter white View Post
gotta love how you ask for advise and someones got to be a dick. shafts arent bent and shocks are built right ive checked all that. I can loosen the bottom cap and recenter the bushing and the shocks go back to being buttery smooth. and will stay that way for a few runs. this is a perfect example of why hardly anybody runs an xray. you cant even get simple advice without someone being an ass or a know it all. the b6 cant get here fast enough. everyone at my track runs associated and even the fastest guy there is always willing to help someone with there car. and not be a douche about it. im just going to put associated shocks on it and be done with it.
Enjoy your B6. I'll be there to help when you have issues with it as well. Same delivery, so I'll know you'll be pleased.

This is a tech based forum. When you ask a question, you'll get an answer. It's not always right, but most do their best to help. When you immediately start blaming the car, and telling people that are trying to help that they're wrong, and then go on to explain that another has the same problem with completely different symptoms, most people aren't going to spend more time trying to help you.

Me though, I don't mind. I'll make humor of your situation, but still explain what the issue could be, and how you'd go about fixing it.

Nobody runs Xray because for the most part, the car is unproven. A company needs big name drivers within their defined territory to successfully display the car in a winning light. Then sales happen. Sure, nice people help sell car brands, but in the big picture, wins are what matters. Until Xray or RC America put together a budget for a big time US racer, they'll continue to have niche markets. Edit: I'm trying my best to put out correct and helpful information about the car. Tt's on par with all of the current brands, but certainly has a few quarks here and there. I'm not a team driver, I'm not a paid pro, but I do qualify for a mains, and love being competitive.

I'm also willing to always help the local guy and not be "a douche" about it. That is, until they come off as badly as you have, then they get ignored. I promise, if you make a habit of acting like you do, you'll run into a lot more people that will treat you like I do than you will people that are willing to "take it".
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Old 06-17-2016, 01:45 PM   #3233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walter white View Post
I can loosen the bottom cap and recenter the bushing and the shocks go back to being buttery smooth. and will stay that way for a few runs.
As seen in the pic I posted about the shock assembly, the thick shock guide bushing is keyed into the lower shock cap with an extrusion and is also and the bushings OD is constrained by the caps ID. I don't see how its possible for that piece to be off center.
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Old 06-18-2016, 12:48 AM   #3234
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Yes, it was my eclip. problem solved. Thank you

sounds like the c clip on top holding the piston has come loose[/QUOTE]
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Old 06-18-2016, 10:03 AM   #3235
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anyone have a 3x20 pin for the trans? amain doesnt carry the xray ones and the serpent is back ordered.

Found some on sites that im not familiar with and dont trust due to 2 weeks ago my bank account being hacked
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Old 06-18-2016, 12:29 PM   #3236
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Congratulations Alexander and GregerL (on here) to the deal, its well deserved.

http://www.neobuggy.net/2016/06/17/a...ay/#more-76686
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Old 06-18-2016, 03:14 PM   #3237
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Originally Posted by RockStar_199 View Post
anyone have a 3x20 pin for the trans? amain doesnt carry the xray ones and the serpent is back ordered.

Found some on sites that im not familiar with and dont trust due to 2 weeks ago my bank account being hacked
PM me your address, I'll mail you a couple.
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Old 06-20-2016, 01:46 PM   #3238
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For any of those with the CE edition running on med-high bite clay WITH the lay down tranny not the DE trans...is a low pro servo preferable?

I was hoping to get away with a standard servo and potentially adding a 25g under battery weight shifted as far back as the lay down trans will warrant. I have a 6.5t motor so weight isn't much of a concern, but balance is. Will a somewhat beefy standard servo be too front heavy even with the battery weight?

Iv just not had good luck with shorty servos. I run the Hitec 9630 servo in my 4wd and it seems incredible so far. I'd like to run one in my 2wd as well but the weight balance concerns me for clay, carpet I'm sure it would be excellent.
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Old 06-20-2016, 03:02 PM   #3239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockStar_199 View Post
anyone have a 3x20 pin for the trans? amain doesnt carry the xray ones and the serpent is back ordered.

Found some on sites that im not familiar with and dont trust due to 2 weeks ago my bank account being hacked
i have some as well.. your welcome to.. inbox me..
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Old 06-20-2016, 03:04 PM   #3240
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Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
For any of those with the CE edition running on med-high bite clay WITH the lay down tranny not the DE trans...is a low pro servo preferable?

I was hoping to get away with a standard servo and potentially adding a 25g under battery weight shifted as far back as the lay down trans will warrant. I have a 6.5t motor so weight isn't much of a concern, but balance is. Will a somewhat beefy standard servo be too front heavy even with the battery weight?

Iv just not had good luck with shorty servos. I run the Hitec 9630 servo in my 4wd and it seems incredible so far. I'd like to run one in my 2wd as well but the weight balance concerns me for clay, carpet I'm sure it would be excellent.
ive been running standard servo from the start.. i think you will be plenty happy with it.. not to mention.. it helps keep the front end on the ground.. once you get a setup you like.. its hard to keep the front down..
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