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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 06-01-2016, 01:21 PM   #3136
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Im having a little bit of a hard time understanding the right combination of rear suspension bushing to get what I want. I want 3 degrees toe and 1 degree anti squat. with no change to roll center or track width. put the bushings in that are supposed to achieve this as best as I can tell from the instructions but it just doesnt look right. any help would be appreciated.
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Old 06-01-2016, 01:39 PM   #3137
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If you wan to keep the roll center exactly the same at the hinge pins you'll need to remove toe and anti squat equally from the C and D block. Use the diagonal .5 insert pointing out and down on the C block (removing .5 toe and .5 anti-squat) and use the .5 diagonal insert up and inward on the D block (removing an additional .5 toe and .5 anti-squat), which should put you at 3 deg toe and 1 deg anti squat instead of the stock 4 deg toe and 2 deg anti squat. Make sense?
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Last edited by symmetricon; 06-02-2016 at 06:42 AM. Reason: Thanks Grobe
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Old 06-01-2016, 03:12 PM   #3138
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actually.. symetricon.. i think is wrong on one thing..

so.. in order to get what your wanting..

use the .5 offset pill..

so.. from the rear of the car..looking at the D block the .5 dot will be inside towards the diff.. and up away from chassis..

from the front of the car.. looking at the C block.. the .5 dot will be outside towards the wheels and down towards the chassis
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Old 06-01-2016, 03:26 PM   #3139
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Can anyone point me in the right direction? Put a reedy 8.5 in mine. Can someone recomend a spur gear combo ? Thanks
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Old 06-01-2016, 03:59 PM   #3140
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Excuse the newbie question, but if I'm going to racing on an indoor clay track, would i want the carpet edition or dirt? I've been told to get the carpet. Have my mind made up to get this buggy, just have to find one now(used). Thanks!
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Old 06-01-2016, 05:39 PM   #3141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclebrkr View Post
Excuse the newbie question, but if I'm going to racing on an indoor clay track, would i want the carpet edition or dirt? I've been told to get the carpet. Have my mind made up to get this buggy, just have to find one now(used). Thanks!
If its the main track that you are going to race at then yes get the Carpet Edition.
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Old 06-01-2016, 06:07 PM   #3142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
actually.. symetricon.. i think is wrong on one thing..

so.. in order to get what your wanting..

use the .5 offset pill..

so.. from the rear of the car..looking at the D block the .5 dot will be inside towards the diff.. and up away from chassis..

from the front of the car.. looking at the C block.. the .5 dot will be outside towards the wheels and down towards the chassis
two different answers. now im really confused. I wish xray had a simpler chart to show how to get what. I appreciate the replies though.
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Old 06-01-2016, 10:38 PM   #3143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peter george View Post
Can anyone point me in the right direction? Put a reedy 8.5 in mine. Can someone recomend a spur gear combo ? Thanks
81/23-25
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Old 06-02-2016, 12:06 AM   #3144
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What effect does moving the rear shock inward on the tower have? Thx

Quote:
Originally Posted by seth556 View Post
I run the CE on a high bite indoor track and have had great success. I run the gear diff and shocks on the front of the rear arms, but it's really down to what you prefer. There's guys on here that run on a mid to high traction track and much prefer the DE and a ball diff, meanwhile I much prefer my CE with a gear diff, there's no correct answer other than trying stuff for yourself. The one thing I noticed about the XB4 which has carried over to the XB2 is just how easy it is to work on and tune compared to other cars. If you want to try the ball diff and gear diff, you can change it out in a couple minutes and be back on the track testing.

Here's my setup, I might not go directly to it but maybe you can find some ideas to try. The car is pretty good with the stock setup, just has a lot of roll and droop in the front which is easily fixable. I wouldn't try to overcomplicate dialing in the setup before ever running the car, I think the stock setup might surprise you. http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...setup=xb2_2016
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Old 06-02-2016, 06:38 AM   #3145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
actually.. symetricon.. i think is wrong on one thing..

so.. in order to get what your wanting..

use the .5 offset pill..

so.. from the rear of the car..looking at the D block the .5 dot will be inside towards the diff.. and up away from chassis..

from the front of the car.. looking at the C block.. the .5 dot will be outside towards the wheels and down towards the chassis
oop, your right, at the C block they should be pointing out and down and out and on the d block, up and inward.
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Old 06-02-2016, 07:35 AM   #3146
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Anyone know where to get the hudy snap ring pliers that they recommend to change out the diff?

I want to order from a US based store.

Or is anyone using another tool to get that ring out?

thanks
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Old 06-02-2016, 07:58 AM   #3147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
81/23-25
Thank you sir
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Old 06-02-2016, 08:50 AM   #3148
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Originally Posted by Eaglesrx View Post
Anyone know where to get the hudy snap ring pliers that they recommend to change out the diff?

I want to order from a US based store.

Or is anyone using another tool to get that ring out?

thanks
I got a cheap pair of needle nose pliers and dremeled them down. The pair they have at the checkout register at ace hardware. only like $3
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Old 06-02-2016, 09:45 AM   #3149
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Originally Posted by Eaglesrx View Post
Anyone know where to get the hudy snap ring pliers that they recommend to change out the diff?

I want to order from a US based store.

Or is anyone using another tool to get that ring out?

thanks
Rca probably has them. I bought a cheap set from autozone and they work as well.
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Old 06-02-2016, 09:59 AM   #3150
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Check Discountrcstore, they carry the whia brand that Schumacher diffs require
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