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Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread

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Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread

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Old 05-04-2019, 06:44 PM   -   Wikipost
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe) or add 1.5mm carbon avid spacers



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 05-25-2016, 10:51 AM
  #3121  
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Try your rear toe. If your losing steering on power. The 29 should help with that. If you have long sweepers. High speed. You can go to 3* toe. Should help out.
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Old 05-25-2016, 12:12 PM
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Anyone looking for a set of brand new in package rear aluminum hubs? I have a set unused. part number 323351.
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Old 05-25-2016, 12:38 PM
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Pm'd you J_Fitz
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Old 05-26-2016, 04:41 AM
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Ran my DE for the first time last night, pretty awesome, tons of steering (on and off throttle) and still planted. Only changes i made so far are the under battery weights and 2 dot in the front. I need more tight turning rotation, might try 3 dot 1 dot and remove the weight.
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Old 05-26-2016, 05:58 AM
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@bill.. on the front hubs.. move the spacer..where the big spacer is at the bottom.. that will help..
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Old 05-27-2016, 12:52 AM
  #3126  
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I'm over the 75t spur and the slipper eliminator is not my favorite but much better. Caved and bought a couple schelle slippers for my de and ce. I have a bunch of 0.3mm shims and curt at schelle sent me 2 bearings with the slippers. Nice guy! In any event using 5 0.3mm shims (1.5mm ttl). Are these all the shims I need internally? I read some used 1.6mm. Also, any shims needed outside the gearbox? Thx - I'm only a few months racing rc, bought a lot of used stuff, and am not very experienced putting stuff together (yet). Thx!
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Old 05-27-2016, 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by dgrobe2112
@bill.. on the front hubs.. move the spacer..where the big spacer is at the bottom.. that will help..
Thanks I will try that out!
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Old 05-28-2016, 02:57 PM
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Default Sugar track set up help

Looking for some set up help. I will be running on a outdoor, large, hard packed dirt track. It's going to be hot and sugared. A very abrasive track. I didn't want to buy all the option parts to turn my Carpet buggy into the dirt edition. Any set up help would be great!!
Thanks
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Old 05-28-2016, 10:05 PM
  #3129  
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Originally Posted by kbish76
Looking for some set up help. I will be running on a outdoor, large, hard packed dirt track. It's going to be hot and sugared. A very abrasive track. I didn't want to buy all the option parts to turn my Carpet buggy into the dirt edition. Any set up help would be great!!
Thanks
If track is sugared you should be fine with the carpet car
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Old 05-29-2016, 12:27 AM
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Anyone ran the CE edition on a loose track minimum jumps and come up with an ok setup
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Old 05-29-2016, 01:47 AM
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Has anyone had problems with pulling ballstuds out of the rear hubs ? This weekend my son has done 3 . They have just been very minor hits eg 1st corner pileups . Currently using the ones that come standard on the dirt edition . Thinking of going to the alloy versions . The car is run on loose to very loose dirt .
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Old 05-29-2016, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by kbish76
Looking for some set up help. I will be running on a outdoor, large, hard packed dirt track. It's going to be hot and sugared. A very abrasive track. I didn't want to buy all the option parts to turn my Carpet buggy into the dirt edition. Any set up help would be great!!
Thanks
You shouldn't need any option parts besides some different springs to tune with. You can get to a really good setup without anything extra and then fine tune it when you know what parts you want, like the 29/23 bulkhead or hard side rails.
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Old 05-29-2016, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by seth556
You shouldn't need any option parts besides some different springs to tune with. You can get to a really good setup without anything extra and then fine tune it when you know what parts you want, like the 29/23 bulkhead or hard side rails.
So would you suggest keeping the gear diff over the ball diff? And keep the rear shock position on the front of the arm? And with hotter temps 90deg and above, should I soften the shock package from 45f/40r oil with 2 dot springs and 1.6f/1.7r postons.

Thanks
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Old 05-29-2016, 04:47 PM
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I run the CE on a high bite indoor track and have had great success. I run the gear diff and shocks on the front of the rear arms, but it's really down to what you prefer. There's guys on here that run on a mid to high traction track and much prefer the DE and a ball diff, meanwhile I much prefer my CE with a gear diff, there's no correct answer other than trying stuff for yourself. The one thing I noticed about the XB4 which has carried over to the XB2 is just how easy it is to work on and tune compared to other cars. If you want to try the ball diff and gear diff, you can change it out in a couple minutes and be back on the track testing.

Here's my setup, I might not go directly to it but maybe you can find some ideas to try. The car is pretty good with the stock setup, just has a lot of roll and droop in the front which is easily fixable. I wouldn't try to overcomplicate dialing in the setup before ever running the car, I think the stock setup might surprise you. http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...setup=xb2_2016
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Old 05-29-2016, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by kbish76
Looking for some set up help. I will be running on a outdoor, large, hard packed dirt track. It's going to be hot and sugared. A very abrasive track. I didn't want to buy all the option parts to turn my Carpet buggy into the dirt edition. Any set up help would be great!!
Thanks
I've been running back and forth between the CE and DE and when traction is truly high I prefer the CE. It's simply faster. I've been working on a setup and have something that's pretty damn good now. I'll post it up in the next couple days.
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