R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 12-26-2016, 07:51 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

Print Wikipost

Like Tree30Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-25-2016, 10:30 PM   #2881
Tech Champion
 
STLNLST's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 8,951
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
Fairly used to changing blades in mod sedan, can't imagine this is anymore work.
We run hotter motors in sedan and I feel blades hold up much better than the orange puck system IMO.
__________________
REMEMBER THE GOOD OLE DAYS..........THEY'RE NEVER COMING BACK SO WE'RE STUCK WITH THE MESS IN FRONT OF US!!!!
STLNLST is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2016, 10:36 PM   #2882
Tech Elite
 
B00t13g's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 2,041
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
We run hotter motors in sedan and I feel blades hold up much better than the orange puck system IMO.
I would be ok with changing pucks weekly. Which would mean two practice days and 1-2 race days. Haven't had to change a front blade since xray released their hd blades and I'm running a boosted 5.0 on carpet.
__________________
Mackenzie Meyercord
Rc America, Xray, MOTIV, Avid, Team EAM, Apex Rc Pro Shop, Pro Spec USA, Sanwa, RSD
B00t13g is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2016, 10:39 PM   #2883
Tech Adept
 
gokarter64's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Somewhere Near Tacoma RC Raceway
Posts: 235
Default

running in stock class i had a set of pucks last me 3 or 4 months. i just now changed them out when i took the pucks set from my 2.0 to my 3.0
__________________
Cars: TLR 22 3.0 Mod, Mugen MBX7 ECO, TLR 22 3.0 Stock, TLR 22-4, TLR 22T 2.0
Electronics: Airtonics, Orion, LRP, Xpert, Maclan
Goodies: Exotek, Avid, Raw Speed, Jconcepts, MIP . Paint By: Double Deuce Designs
gokarter64 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2016, 10:43 PM   #2884
JAE
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,866
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default Pucks

What's the secret? Grease or no grease? Thx
Quote:
Originally Posted by gokarter64 View Post
running in stock class i had a set of pucks last me 3 or 4 months. i just now changed them out when i took the pucks set from my 2.0 to my 3.0
JAE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2016, 10:57 PM   #2885
Tech Adept
 
gokarter64's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Somewhere Near Tacoma RC Raceway
Posts: 235
Default

no grease, keep them very clean. grease will act as a lapping compound oddly enough, this happens because the exposed grease will pick up foreign material like dirt and will start wearing away at them. make sure to clean them after you run a race. i just wipe any dirt off of them and call it good. also dont use them above a 17.5 turn motor. also if you can find any get some rubber boots to go over them that will help even more.
__________________
Cars: TLR 22 3.0 Mod, Mugen MBX7 ECO, TLR 22 3.0 Stock, TLR 22-4, TLR 22T 2.0
Electronics: Airtonics, Orion, LRP, Xpert, Maclan
Goodies: Exotek, Avid, Raw Speed, Jconcepts, MIP . Paint By: Double Deuce Designs
gokarter64 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2016, 05:02 AM   #2886
Tech Elite
 
seth556's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 2,201
Trader Rating: 42 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by _jk79782 View Post
I had a b5 m and a 22 3.0
Dumb question, but have you tried multiple sets of tires? Maybe switching tires with someone and see if either of your cars change. It could just be a bad set of tires, mismatched compounds or what not.
seth556 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2016, 05:53 AM   #2887
Suspended
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,124
Trader Rating: 61 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Geometrically, Is the DE engineered to be driven with around a 19mm ride height? I thought that was a carpet or lay down transmission thing
The car stock lacks a significant amount of droop.
__________________
Best Avatar on rc-tech
Socket is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2016, 06:33 AM   #2888
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Austin, Tx
Posts: 2,060
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

just fyi.. you add antisquat for rear traction on power..
__________________
Daniel Grobe
----------------------
Sponsors:
Proline Racing / RC America / Xray
dgrobe2112 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2016, 08:13 AM   #2889
Tech Initiate
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 35
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
It changes plunge etc, but my car isn't stable above 20mm or so. Carpet guys are running 15-17.
Gonna lower my ride height to 19.got it at 22 right now
_jk79782 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2016, 10:18 AM   #2890
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Grand Rapids
Posts: 16
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Boz View Post
how many times have you taken your c-clip out?
Once, to make sure it was greased. Used to have a Durango, not really sure how this c-clip is hard to handle....
ooberman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2016, 10:22 AM   #2891
Tech Elite
 
Customworksking's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Springfield ILLINOIS
Posts: 3,637
Trader Rating: 73 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Boz View Post
Is the bolt done all the way up (tight) and the diff feels really rough and hard to turn (as you said, like a spool), yet the main gear can still be spun by your fingers?
Yes it's very tight out of the car yet slips in very odd I'll clean and build it correctly put it in and it slips it needs adjusted so much when removed is too tight and drives like the diff feels
__________________
Team Xray | RC America| Hudy |Jaco |AKA
Customworksking is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2016, 11:25 AM   #2892
Suspended
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,124
Trader Rating: 61 (100%+)
Default

The diff spring is a little weird to set at first.
__________________
Best Avatar on rc-tech
Socket is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2016, 05:17 PM   #2893
Tech Adept
 
spook's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Lake Macquarie
Posts: 111
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Customworksking View Post
Yes it's very tight out of the car yet slips in very odd I'll clean and build it correctly put it in and it slips it needs adjusted so much when removed is too tight and drives like the diff feels
My diff was the same, my son's is perfect. I tried everything, CA glued diff rings, still slipped and really tight. I noticed the diff nut was bottomed out on the outdrive, I used a 1mm shim between the spring and nut, now it is perfect, doesn't slip and silky smooth.
spook is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2016, 07:49 PM   #2894
Tech Master
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 1,121
Trader Rating: 42 (98%+)
Send a message via AIM to RockStar_199 Send a message via MSN to RockStar_199 Send a message via Yahoo to RockStar_199
Default

Running mine with a 7.0 fanton right now...turned down....is everyone using all 3 slipper disks? I'm having an issue with the slipper nut being a little close to coming g off
__________________
Mark C. Math
Kyosho TKI4
Triton Engines: L4 2108
J&T Bearing Co.
RC Pro TX10280
RockStar_199 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2016, 07:55 PM   #2895
Tech Regular
 
Poppin Fresh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: NY NY
Posts: 329
Default

I will be converting my Carpet Edition into the Dirt Edition. Will I be needing a different body or will I just have to trim the existing body that came with the carpet edition?
__________________
"Nothin says luvin like fresh baked muffins, woohoo!"

Cruizin With R/C, RCBZ, Xray, Hudy, Novarossi USA, Futaba, Avid RC
Poppin Fresh is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 06:54 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net