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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 04-24-2016, 06:47 PM   #2821
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1 PM
Can anybody give me any tips on setups for medium to high bite clay..I run indoors at Scvrc in Santa Clarita CA. The problem is that no matter what I do or what set up I've used I can't seem to get rear traction on a consistent basis.. I'm running an 8.5 reedy with a tekin rsx , 81/23 gearing, and slicks all the way around... When the track is dry I'll throw on my microns.. One big problem I'm having is when I slow down into a corner or to turn I keep spinning out once I pull the throttle...this also happens when I take off...id appreciate anyone's advice .. Thanks
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Old 04-24-2016, 09:16 PM   #2822
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Originally Posted by _jk79782 View Post
1 PM
Can anybody give me any tips on setups for medium to high bite clay..I run indoors at Scvrc in Santa Clarita CA. The problem is that no matter what I do or what set up I've used I can't seem to get rear traction on a consistent basis.. I'm running an 8.5 reedy with a tekin rsx , 81/23 gearing, and slicks all the way around... When the track is dry I'll throw on my microns.. One big problem I'm having is when I slow down into a corner or to turn I keep spinning out once I pull the throttle...this also happens when I take off...id appreciate anyone's advice .. Thanks
i have the same issue it's the diff i have 2 ball diffs and can't get them to stop slipping the rings slip on the outdrives CA them ... try flipping the thrust washers groove out small washer 1st no lube on thrust bearing Dry... lmk how it works
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Old 04-24-2016, 11:21 PM   #2823
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You didn't say what car you have...a dirt edition or a carpet edition. Socket posted a setup sheet a few pages back. He is having very good luck getting his car to hook up and go fast.
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Old 04-25-2016, 02:23 AM   #2824
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socket, runs a DE on a outdoor track which can be on the loose to medium traction side depending on the watering schedule. he will probably have a updated set-up after racing a 2 day event
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Old 04-25-2016, 05:08 AM   #2825
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i have the same issue it's the diff i have 2 ball diffs and can't get them to stop slipping the rings slip on the outdrives CA them ... try flipping the thrust washers groove out small washer 1st no lube on thrust bearing Dry... lmk how it works
I CA glued my diff rings too, i also put a dot on the outside with a paint pen to see if thyy slipped at all. I'm running a 24K 17.5 with a slipper eliminator. I checked the diff after each run and had no slipping at all.
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Old 04-25-2016, 07:18 AM   #2826
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Originally Posted by jmcelroy42 View Post
I CA glued my diff rings too, i also put a dot on the outside with a paint pen to see if thyy slipped at all. I'm running a 24K 17.5 with a slipper eliminator. I checked the diff after each run and had no slipping at all.
I did the same yet it still was loose when running the car I pulled the diff it was like a spool way too tight for a ball diff yet it slipped there's something wrong imo. My car drives like it has a gear diff
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Old 04-25-2016, 09:22 AM   #2827
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
So I'm 95% with the car at this point. It's fast, and has stellar rear bite. Really looking for a bit more rotation and corner speed. The front likes to stall a little mid corner.

Going to add a little weight on the front and see the affect.
My car is the same.. on medium high bite clay.. i added the aluminum front pivot plate to mine.. 29*.. and it really helps with the car getting through switchbacks..
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Old 04-25-2016, 11:15 AM   #2828
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Xray XB2 MIP Puck write-up

Parts Needed:

• 1x MIP TLR outdrives Male 13147
• 1x MIP TLR outdrive Female 13148
• 1x MIP TLR rebuild kit 13149
• 2x MIP Yokomo Bmax2 dogbone 14146
• 1x MIP No.1 Pucks 13131
• 1x MIP No.1 Driveshaft Pins/Screws 13132
• 2x 1mm diff spacer

Build the ball differential like normal. Use the Xray diff gear. You can use the bearings and diff balls that come with the Xb2.

I did upgrade the thrust assembly with a Protek ceramic caged thrust bearing. To do this use the MIP inner thrust washer and the small hole thrust washer supplied with the caged thrust bearing, this is important to do otherwise you risk damaging the diff.

The MIP Yokomo dogbones are a direct replacement for the Xray, no modifying needed. I used stock Yokomo Bmax2 dogbones that I modified to fit.

When you are ready to install the diff, it does require some shims to center it. I used 0.9mm (4x 0.2mm and 1x 0.1mm) on each side, this did have a little play so a 1mm should make for a tighter fit. Top racing sells a spacer kit that is this measurement or use typical metric diff shims.

This is what I did to build my car, and the fit is really nice. MIP is constantly improving their products and ready to help further the industry. My diff has never been smoother and has near zero slip with a tight slipper or lockout setup. Also you increase uptravel without a dogbone bind.

If you need to order any of the MIP parts feel free to contact MIP.
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Old 04-25-2016, 11:41 AM   #2829
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How does it drive
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Old 04-25-2016, 11:55 AM   #2830
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Default RE cornering

Daniel - Was it the extra weight, or the 29 degree over the stock that aided in the turning/not stalling? I have not completed my DE build yet.

I run on medium/high bite indoor clay at SCVRC.Medium size tight track. Any tips in setup while i'm still building? This may help the other fellow posting about the same track here... thx

Here is a link (not me but my track)...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w0jqUDqU7c4


Quote:
Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
My car is the same.. on medium high bite clay.. i added the aluminum front pivot plate to mine.. 29*.. and it really helps with the car getting through switchbacks..
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Last edited by JAE; 04-25-2016 at 12:23 PM. Reason: sp
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Old 04-25-2016, 12:10 PM   #2831
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20 degrees over stock? i think the stock is 26* block.. i just went with 29.. doubt the weight was that big of a difference.. but.. i know it aided in it.. the 29* sure helped with the higher corner speed i was looking for..

remember.. with the 29/23 plate.. you need to order the optional front brace.. the stock front brace wont work with it..

and you will need two set screws to tighten onto the hinge pins..
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Old 04-25-2016, 12:24 PM   #2832
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WillS View Post
Xray XB2 MIP Puck write-up

Parts Needed:

1x MIP TLR outdrives Male 13147
1x MIP TLR outdrive Female 13148
1x MIP TLR rebuild kit 13149
2x MIP Yokomo Bmax2 dogbone 14146
1x MIP No.1 Pucks 13131
1x MIP No.1 Driveshaft Pins/Screws 13132
2x 1mm diff spacer

Build the ball differential like normal. Use the Xray diff gear. You can use the bearings and diff balls that come with the Xb2.

I did upgrade the thrust assembly with a Protek ceramic caged thrust bearing. To do this use the MIP inner thrust washer and the small hole thrust washer supplied with the caged thrust bearing, this is important to do otherwise you risk damaging the diff.

The MIP Yokomo dogbones are a direct replacement for the Xray, no modifying needed. I used stock Yokomo Bmax2 dogbones that I modified to fit.

When you are ready to install the diff, it does require some shims to center it. I used 0.9mm (4x 0.2mm and 1x 0.1mm) on each side, this did have a little play so a 1mm should make for a tighter fit. Top racing sells a spacer kit that is this measurement or use typical metric diff shims.

This is what I did to build my car, and the fit is really nice. MIP is constantly improving their products and ready to help further the industry. My diff has never been smoother and has near zero slip with a tight slipper or lockout setup. Also you increase uptravel without a dogbone bind.

If you need to order any of the MIP parts feel free to contact MIP.
thats.. 100 bux.. thats crazy.. i cant find the bmax axels.. except in hong kong on ebay... are they on the MIP site?
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Old 04-25-2016, 12:26 PM   #2833
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29 degree (it was a typo - corrected). the 29 degree aided in corner speed, as in power on cornering or a sweeper? Or, turning radius with tight 180's etc? Also, what is the optional front brace... if you happen to have links, that would be awesome as I can't seem to find the 29 degree anywhere or teh optional front brace. Thanks!
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Old 04-25-2016, 12:26 PM   #2834
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Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
thats.. 100 bux.. thats crazy.. i cant find the bmax axels.. except in hong kong on ebay... are they on the MIP site?
Couldn't find the axles either. Mods sounding better and better.
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Old 04-25-2016, 12:41 PM   #2835
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Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
Couldn't find the axles either. Mods sounding better and better.
got rid of the corner push i was feeling.. especially in the tighter sections.. the 180's.. the car would hold the corner better.. and rotates much better once i made that change.. and that was on the carpet car.. i still have it on the dirt converted.. and the car is faster..
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