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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 04-18-2016, 06:51 AM   #2731
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I might.
Any help needed let me know. Don't be a stranger.
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Old 04-18-2016, 06:56 AM   #2732
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Finally got to run my XB2 this weekend. It took me a little while to come to grips with the car. I bought it used from someone and had to make drastic changes to the setup to get it to turn and gain some forward grip. Huge thanks to Grobe for all the help and setup tips.
Didn't qualify well due to a couple of things. By the time I finally got the car really feeling well, I had an issue in the last qual and couldn't finish.
This left me in the back of the B main. Got my issues sorted and made a really good run in the B and bumped into the A. Car was finally feeling really good. Go to start the A and my diff came loose so I called it a day.
We had a really fast group of guys at the track for a local series race. Knowing that and my first time out with the car, I just wanted to break into the top 10 and I did.

It still needs a little work and there's a lot more speed in the car to be gained. However, I left there with my lap times being .1 faster than I ever turned with my previous buggy.

Now to address the issues I had. These were 100% my fault and at no fault to the car itself. I was able to shim and fit a MIP pucks kit into the car. It wasn't a perfect fit, but I was determined to try it. The issues I had were all the result of this. The kit needs more work to be reliable in the XB2. I'm going to pull it out and go back to the stock setup for the next race.
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Old 04-18-2016, 07:01 AM   #2733
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Originally Posted by pickle311 View Post
Finally got to run my XB2 this weekend. It took me a little while to come to grips with the car. I bought it used from someone and had to make drastic changes to the setup to get it to turn and gain some forward grip. Huge thanks to Grobe for all the help and setup tips.
Didn't qualify well due to a couple of things. By the time I finally got the car really feeling well, I had an issue in the last qual and couldn't finish.
This left me in the back of the B main. Got my issues sorted and made a really good run in the B and bumped into the A. Car was finally feeling really good. Go to start the A and my diff came loose so I called it a day.
We had a really fast group of guys at the track for a local series race. Knowing that and my first time out with the car, I just wanted to break into the top 10 and I did.

It still needs a little work and there's a lot more speed in the car to be gained. However, I left there with my lap times being .1 faster than I ever turned with my previous buggy.

Now to address the issues I had. These were 100% my fault and at no fault to the car itself. I was able to shim and fit a MIP pucks kit into the car. It wasn't a perfect fit, but I was determined to try it. The issues I had were all the result of this. The kit needs more work to be reliable in the XB2. I'm going to pull it out and go back to the stock setup for the next race.
We're close to making pucks fit. But have one or two issues before it's 100%.
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Old 04-18-2016, 08:10 AM   #2734
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it was good to see your progression with the car pickle.. and glad you got the car to work for ya.. its very good and responsive to setup changes.. which is why i been enjoying it.. i still feel like my car is slow compared to other guys on the track.. i drove hollywoods car and it felt like a mod motor was in his car.. my car doesnt feel that fast at all..
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Old 04-18-2016, 08:30 AM   #2735
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Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
it was good to see your progression with the car pickle.. and glad you got the car to work for ya.. its very good and responsive to setup changes.. which is why i been enjoying it.. i still feel like my car is slow compared to other guys on the track.. i drove hollywoods car and it felt like a mod motor was in his car.. my car doesnt feel that fast at all..

I don't know what you guys are doing to get so much more punch out of your motors. I was as fast as anyone down the straight, but even your car had a lot more bottom end than mine did. I tried and hugging the inside to make the step onto the table just wasn't doable. I'm having to swing wide and I feel like that's where I'm losing the the most time.

I've got a couple more things I want to try on it. I'll probably bring it with me Saturday to try between races on the big track since we will have a lot of down time.
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Old 04-18-2016, 08:59 AM   #2736
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i have to swing wide as well on the tabletop.. driving a couple the other guys cars.. i dont know how they have their car so fast.. Todd running fastest laps every heat it seems.. in the main.. he was .3 faster than anyone else on fast lap..
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Old 04-18-2016, 09:08 AM   #2737
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Rotating mass reduction is the name of the game for punch and spool up.
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Old 04-18-2016, 09:16 AM   #2738
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Rotating mass reduction is the name of the game for punch and spool up.
Any tips on that for this car socket? I'm running the lockout but on this high grip it's destroying my outdrives. Going to have to go back to a slipper I think or 30 bucks a month for new outdrives.
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Old 04-18-2016, 09:35 AM   #2739
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Any tips on that for this car socket? I'm running the lockout but on this high grip it's destroying my outdrives. Going to have to go back to a slipper I think or 30 bucks a month for new outdrives.

Yes.

Will and I will have an answer on pucks on Wednesday when I'm able to take some measurements. I'd go to the schelle slipper in the meantime and run two red pads, or red rear and white front.

You could also go to AE outdrives with the AE screw and nut. It all measured out to fit fine. However, I would tell you to wait until I have a definitive answer on pucks...We're 90% there, with a set up that works, but requires shimming.

Also, the parma slot car spurs are very nice for reducing rotating mass. I've exploded a few of them, so I'd tell you to put in a new one every month or so.
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Old 04-18-2016, 10:33 AM   #2740
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I know it's been asked, but I can't find it. What hexs do I need to run the B5, RB5 wheels from Proline and Avid?
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Old 04-18-2016, 10:40 AM   #2741
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Yes.

Will and I will have an answer on pucks on Wednesday when I'm able to take some measurements. I'd go to the schelle slipper in the meantime and run two red pads, or red rear and white front.

You could also go to AE outdrives with the AE screw and nut. It all measured out to fit fine. However, I would tell you to wait until I have a definitive answer on pucks...We're 90% there, with a set up that works, but requires shimming.

Also, the parma slot car spurs are very nice for reducing rotating mass. I've exploded a few of them, so I'd tell you to put in a new one every month or so.
Sounds good looking forward to the pucks.
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Old 04-18-2016, 10:41 AM   #2742
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I know it's been asked, but I can't find it. What hexs do I need to run the B5, RB5 wheels from Proline and Avid?
Rear
Set the track width +1.5 mm
Use wheel shim offset +0.75 #305380

Front
Hex hub 12mm -0.75
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Old 04-18-2016, 11:16 AM   #2743
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I know it's been asked, but I can't find it. What hexs do I need to run the B5, RB5 wheels from Proline and Avid?
to use AE/Avid wheels... these are the hexes you need..

Front 365354 offset -0.75
rear 365359 offset +3.75

these hexes will give you the same offset as the stock hexes, and stock xray wheels..
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Old 04-18-2016, 11:24 AM   #2744
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Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
to use AE/Avid wheels... these are the hexes you need..

Front 365354 offset -0.75
rear 365359 offset +3.75

these hexes will give you the same offset as the stock hexes, and stock xray wheels..
Dgrobe is correct, I copied the info from the page on petit which is obviously wrong. Sorry
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Old 04-18-2016, 11:24 AM   #2745
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here is my setup sheet from this past weekend.. winning setup. Dirt edition conversion

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...setup=xb2_2016
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Last edited by dgrobe2112; 04-19-2016 at 01:40 PM.
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