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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 04-14-2016, 09:42 AM   #2656
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Fair enough point. Ive owned the rb6, 22 2.0, b5m ect ect and broken parts on them all. The xb2 has been just as tough if not more so than my previous rides.

My theory is that there was either a bad batch of aluminum. And yes, the rear hanger would have probably been better off with a stock setting of 1 deg anti squat and 3 deg of toe.
imo....the problem with the rear carrier is the eyelet lobe for the bushings are too low. they hit the track surface before the chassis on flat landings, actual dirt tracks they start wearing down before the chassis, when they wear even with the chassis they still hit at the same time. either way stress transfers to the thinner part of the carrier where mount point is. the carrier bends or break in a shear which is visually unique to aluminum or bend

carpet tracks, while some may think they have a carebear surface, usually concrete under the thin ozite. some of the photos that were posted just pages shows racers on carpet surfaces with the same issue
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Old 04-14-2016, 09:43 AM   #2657
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Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars View Post
imo....the problem with the rear carrier is the eyelet lobe for the bushings are too low. they hit the track surface before the chassis on flat landings, actual dirt tracks they start wearing down before the chassis, when they wear even with the chassis they still hit at the same time. either way stress transfers to the thinner part of the carrier where mount point is. the carrier bends or break in a shear which is visually unique to aluminum or bend

carpet tracks, while some may think they have a carebear surface, usually concrete under the thin ozite. some of the photos that were posted just pages shows racers on carpet surfaces with the same issue
Yep, also explains why the carpet racers aren't bending them, they're just snapping without breaking anything else.
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Old 04-14-2016, 10:31 AM   #2658
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Originally Posted by hairymuffin View Post
Never broken a kyosho hanger and ive been running kyo for 10yrs.. Anything is possible on any brand.. Have any of you guys that broken a rear hanger,broken more than one? If so,i would worry.. Any issues with the xb4? Same hanger?
The xb4 hanger is mounted different from the xb2. The xb2 is screwed from the bottom up through the chassis which runs the height of the hangar which I believe leaves little material left around the screw hole resulting in the breakage. The xb4 hangars are screwed back to front onto the diff cases and does not run the height. Hoping a simple fix would be just to add more material around the screw hole like a small bump kind of like the picture.

It is my opinion that this isn't a design flaw but rather just a weak link in the design. The XB4 hangars were a flaw. I'm sure XRAY will make revisions in the next model (if not sooner) because they always address weak links in their cars. The first step however is admitting there is an issue.
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Old 04-14-2016, 10:35 AM   #2659
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Originally Posted by hairymuffin View Post
Never broken a kyosho hanger and ive been running kyo for 10yrs.. Anything is possible on any brand.. Have any of you guys that broken a rear hanger,broken more than one? If so,i would worry.. Any issues with the xb4? Same hanger?
All I'm saying is.. It happens.. To all cars. I haven't broke one on my xb2 yet. Not saying I won't. Just that it does happen.
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Old 04-14-2016, 10:36 AM   #2660
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Originally Posted by shannow View Post
Just ordering a couple will always be expensive as you have to spread the cost of programming the g code program + tools + time for setting it up + the jig to hold the job.

At 75$ a piece I would consider making it a tad thicker where it breaks but more importantly I'd ask ask for a high grade steel one. That would last a while.
Yea I only asked for 5 at the time, but it was still more than I was expecting. If I had one made for the XB2 I would probably just extend the center part up so it would be straight across the top of it, and make it out of the same 7075 material.
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Old 04-14-2016, 10:50 AM   #2661
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars View Post
imo....the problem with the rear carrier is the eyelet lobe for the bushings are too low. they hit the track surface before the chassis on flat landings, actual dirt tracks they start wearing down before the chassis, when they wear even with the chassis they still hit at the same time. either way stress transfers to the thinner part of the carrier where mount point is. the carrier bends or break in a shear which is visually unique to aluminum or bend
Exactly. I don't think the issue is the material at all, it's the fact the hanger hangs too low and begs to be broken. Why in the world would they allow this small part take the impact before the chassis? And then be surprised when it fails? The fact this is the only part I've heard of anyone breaking on this car (and there are several instances of this one part breaking) says something. There are already a few other XB2s at my track, and literally nothing else has broken. It's a fantastic car otherwise, it just doesn't look like they considered durability at all for this one part.

I also shimmed mine up by .5mm front and back, and I filed some material off the bottom to give a little more clearance. Hopefully it will last through the weekend.
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Old 04-14-2016, 11:48 AM   #2662
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Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars View Post
imo....the problem with the rear carrier is the eyelet lobe for the bushings are too low. they hit the track surface before the chassis on flat landings, actual dirt tracks they start wearing down before the chassis, when they wear even with the chassis they still hit at the same time. either way stress transfers to the thinner part of the carrier where mount point is. the carrier bends or break in a shear which is visually unique to aluminum or bend

carpet tracks, while some may think they have a carebear surface, usually concrete under the thin ozite. some of the photos that were posted just pages shows racers on carpet surfaces with the same issue
Agreed, and if the stock setting was 0 - 1 deg instead of 2 the rear hanger would be higher and therefor less likely to get hung up.
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Old 04-14-2016, 02:15 PM   #2663
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I'm surprised there's so much talk of rear hangers and so little about ball diffs. I thought my bad ball diff was a fluke because it came to me assembled wrong, but every other XB2 I've felt has had a bad diff. It feels like the rings aren't flat. Bind, free, bind... Just makes the rear end completely unpredictable.

It's hard to imagine it's an uncommon problem when I've observed a 100% incidence rate in the handful of local samples.
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Old 04-14-2016, 02:22 PM   #2664
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My balls feel great!
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Old 04-14-2016, 02:26 PM   #2665
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I haven't had any of these issues but if you're having problems with the hanger shimming it up would make sense, just adjust for the higher roll center. I was actually just about to shim my hangers up as I want to run the highest roll center and 3.5* of rear toe.

I was running relatively stiff rear spring and it was awesome, but I realized I could raise the roll center at the arms and run a softer rear spring to get the roll characteristics I wanted with faster weight transfer out of the corners.
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Old 04-14-2016, 02:27 PM   #2666
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I'm surprised there's so much talk of rear hangers and so little about ball diffs. I thought my bad ball diff was a fluke because it came to me assembled wrong, but every other XB2 I've felt has had a bad diff. It feels like the rings aren't flat. Bind, free, bind... Just makes the rear end completely unpredictable.

It's hard to imagine it's an uncommon problem when I've observed a 100% incidence rate in the handful of local samples.
My thrust was dry, diff feels great.
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Old 04-14-2016, 02:37 PM   #2667
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My diff is a little crunchier that I thought it'd be. I've noticed deep grooves in my diff rings, never have I seen such deep grooves on other diffs. I flipped them and it was resolved but I also think running a slipper eliminator sped up the wear and tear. I did try a gear diff just for kicks and it had so much more punch, thought my diff may be slipping but not barking.

Do any other diffs rings fit this xb2 diff? Looking to try other diff rings and balls.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Saturn V View Post
I'm surprised there's so much talk of rear hangers and so little about ball diffs. I thought my bad ball diff was a fluke because it came to me assembled wrong, but every other XB2 I've felt has had a bad diff. It feels like the rings aren't flat. Bind, free, bind... Just makes the rear end completely unpredictable.

It's hard to imagine it's an uncommon problem when I've observed a 100% incidence rate in the handful of local samples.
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Old 04-14-2016, 02:48 PM   #2668
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I got an email back from exotek.

A new hanger has been designed, and will be ready in 3 weeks. Mike is TREMENDOUS, and took my offset suggestion into the design as well. In this situation, he will build it so the centered bushings in front and rear will give 3 degrees of toe instead of the 4 degrees the stock hanger has built in.

This is HUGE for the high grip guys looking to free the car up and gain more corner speed.
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Old 04-14-2016, 02:52 PM   #2669
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What I also like about getting the native toe cut down to 3, is we can switch to the narrow or wide pivot/track, and not have the insane 4 degrees built into the OEM hangers.

This will also give the hanger less exposure to the ground when landing, as the outboard portion will be pulled in.
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Old 04-14-2016, 03:47 PM   #2670
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
I got an email back from exotek.

A new hanger has been designed, and will be ready in 3 weeks. Mike is TREMENDOUS, and took my offset suggestion into the design as well. In this situation, he will build it so the centered bushings in front and rear will give 3 degrees of toe instead of the 4 degrees the stock hanger has built in.

This is HUGE for the high grip guys looking to free the car up and gain more corner speed.
That's great to hear! Going to hold off on buying a stock replacement now. Thanks Socket.
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