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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 04-13-2016, 09:54 PM   #2641
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WesRaven View Post
So I got a reply from XRay about the rear suspension. Looks like they are sticking to their BS "we've never had a problem" excuse. Apparently they expect us to just commonly replace a $30 part after a few race days of normal use. I'm just shocked they didn't tell me to use more loc-tite.

Needless to say, I'm not impressed with XRay's continued denial of such an obvious design flaw. Starting to regret not going Associated. They would have at least sent me a new part or a less BS filled answer.
2015 XB4 all over again.
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Old 04-13-2016, 10:52 PM   #2642
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The instruction manual says the rear suspension hangers are 7075-T6. It is easy to test if you have the equipment. Many machine shops do.

Last edited by avaldes; 04-14-2016 at 01:23 AM.
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Old 04-14-2016, 05:40 AM   #2643
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
Makes sense, that will certainly do it!

Going to talk to a local machine shop that has a 5 axis scanner and see what'd it cost to do a run of these hangers in a much stronger material.
I modeled up the XB4 rear hanger and brought it to a machine shop to get a quote and it was over $75 per piece.
We also tried going through Exotek to get them to make the correct parts. they said they would look into it but it never went anywhere.
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Old 04-14-2016, 06:23 AM   #2644
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Just ordering a couple will always be expensive as you have to spread the cost of programming the g code program + tools + time for setting it up + the jig to hold the job.

At 75$ a piece I would consider making it a tad thicker where it breaks but more importantly I'd ask ask for a high grade steel one. That would last a while.
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Old 04-14-2016, 06:24 AM   #2645
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try protolabs.com
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Old 04-14-2016, 06:26 AM   #2646
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Been racing my car since day 1 and haven't had a single issue with the rear hanger, I think you guys may be overstating the said issue.
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Old 04-14-2016, 06:37 AM   #2647
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Quote:
Originally Posted by symmetricon View Post
Been racing my car since day 1 and haven't had a single issue with the rear hanger, I think you guys may be overstating the said issue.
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Old 04-14-2016, 07:17 AM   #2648
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Was trying to finish up my buggy last night and couldn't get any pinions to fit. The largest I could get on was a 32 tooth and it was too tight. I pulled the spur gear off and it had an 81t spur. I bought the car used from someone, wasn't expecting that to happen. The car only had 1 race day on it. Oh well, hopefully the hobby shop at the track will have a 75t in stock so I can race it Saturday.
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Old 04-14-2016, 07:30 AM   #2649
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Quote:
Originally Posted by symmetricon View Post
Been racing my car since day 1 and haven't had a single issue with the rear hanger, I think you guys may be overstating the said issue.
I've never seen a D block failure in my time racing. TLR, AE, Hot Bodies ETC - I've never seen a bend or break, ever.

This is the first car I've ever seen a failure. That said, is it faulty? No. Is it weaker than other brands? My opinion is yes. Anyone with a failure - email Xray so they're aware.

I went ahead and shimmed mine up 1mm both front a rear. I'm still really happy with the car, and will carry a spare, but most don't carry spares of that part.
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Old 04-14-2016, 07:39 AM   #2650
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Quote:
Originally Posted by symmetricon View Post
Been racing my car since day 1 and haven't had a single issue with the rear hanger, I think you guys may be overstating the said issue.
I also have been racing mine since December. It is now starting to show signs of wear.
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Old 04-14-2016, 07:51 AM   #2651
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
I've never seen a D block failure in my time racing. TLR, AE, Hot Bodies ETC - I've never seen a bend or break, ever.

This is the first car I've ever seen a failure. That said, is it faulty? No. Is it weaker than other brands? My opinion is yes. Anyone with a failure - email Xray so they're aware.

I went ahead and shimmed mine up 1mm both front a rear. I'm still really happy with the car, and will carry a spare, but most don't carry spares of that part.
Fair enough point. Ive owned the rb6, 22 2.0, b5m ect ect and broken parts on them all. The xb2 has been just as tough if not more so than my previous rides.

My theory is that there was either a bad batch of aluminum. And yes, the rear hanger would have probably been better off with a stock setting of 1 deg anti squat and 3 deg of toe.
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Old 04-14-2016, 08:16 AM   #2652
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pickle311 View Post
Was trying to finish up my buggy last night and couldn't get any pinions to fit. The largest I could get on was a 32 tooth and it was too tight. I pulled the spur gear off and it had an 81t spur. I bought the car used from someone, wasn't expecting that to happen. The car only had 1 race day on it. Oh well, hopefully the hobby shop at the track will have a 75t in stock so I can race it Saturday.
i have a 75 if the hobby shop dont have one. come see me. an 81t spur gear is what comes stock with the car.. and is used for mod racing mostly.. so.. you wouldnt be able to get the big pinions that stock buggy needs..

i will be there early saturday.. if your racing in hutto.. i will loan you the 75..
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Old 04-14-2016, 08:18 AM   #2653
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
I've never seen a D block failure in my time racing. TLR, AE, Hot Bodies ETC - I've never seen a bend or break, ever.

This is the first car I've ever seen a failure. That said, is it faulty? No. Is it weaker than other brands? My opinion is yes. Anyone with a failure - email Xray so they're aware.

I went ahead and shimmed mine up 1mm both front a rear. I'm still really happy with the car, and will carry a spare, but most don't carry spares of that part.
i understand what your saying.. but.. i have broken kyosho rear hangers on my ZX5 a couple times..
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Old 04-14-2016, 08:31 AM   #2654
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Never broken a kyosho hanger and ive been running kyo for 10yrs.. Anything is possible on any brand.. Have any of you guys that broken a rear hanger,broken more than one? If so,i would worry.. Any issues with the xb4? Same hanger?
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Old 04-14-2016, 08:34 AM   #2655
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Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
i have a 75 if the hobby shop dont have one. come see me. an 81t spur gear is what comes stock with the car.. and is used for mod racing mostly.. so.. you wouldnt be able to get the big pinions that stock buggy needs..

i will be there early saturday.. if your racing in hutto.. i will loan you the 75..
Ok, I was thinking it came with the 75t. Hopefully the hobby shop has one, if not I'll have to take you up on that.
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