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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 04-12-2016, 03:26 PM   #2596
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WesRaven View Post
Hate to bring up a sore subject, but now that I've run my new DE several times I wanted to show the results on the rear suspension holder. I run primarily on a relatively rough hard packed dirt track, so I figured this would be a good durability test. I haven't broke a single part yet, but I can see why the design of the rear hanger is prone to break now. This is my first modern buggy, so I don't know how other brands are, but on the XB2 the rear suspension holder is lower than the chassis allowing it to receive some excessive abuse under normal driving conditions.

Here are some pictures to show my hanger is tweaked, and is most likely going to break soon. Notice how the right side is starting to bend up and buckle where the screw hole is. For the record, I did loc-tite these screws and check them after every run; they have never come loose. This is happening because the hanger is hitting the ground before the chassis.
i have this same issue and due to the dragging it's packing mud into those areas. also have a issue with the front a-arm inboard aft hinge pin finger also dragging and digging into the track evident by the wear on it and dirt build up when track is moist

years back on my older touring cars due to not having eccentric hinge pins bushings, the carriers had be to purchased for various degrees of toe in/out, width, etc and have shims placed under for antisquat, etc. adjustments, see photo below.

this got me thinking on my DE, to put either 1 or 2mm washer/spacer between the rear carrier and chassis. this will raise the carrier and then use a eccentric spacer to move the hinge pin down and counter the rise of the carrier. going to give it a try since i'm already using a centered eccentric spacer in rear carrier. i see in your case you are using 1deg down, not sure if a .5deg down would make up for even a 1mm shim. you may have to adjust front carrier to counter this and end up with something close to your current setting

as for ski plates not sure on the hole alignment on the XB4 vs the XB2
http://www.ebay.com/itm/68011-TBR-DS...wAAOSwBLlVTllp

http://tboneracing.net/68011-tbr-dsr...xb4-4wd-buggy/

imo, the DE car was not tested in a US market, for the actual outdoor dirt tracks, huge jumps, hard landings, long jumps, and very technical, we run. the stock set-up car is actually good if your offroad outdoor dirt track is basicly a road course with non-technical single/double/triples which i believe is what they may have tested the DE on.

that was also evident by the lack of 17.5 thought in the car, and the work arounds racers are having to do just to use a 69T spur gear. i'm not making it up, i talked to RCA, 17.5 was not on their minds, it was a oh yeah after thought....they weren't thinking of the US and 17.5 is what they told me. which imo translates to lack of US racing in development. that being said, i don't expect them or any company to cover all trick parts for the US 17.5 market, but spur gears...that was major miss

all that being said, i still like the DE quality...., still working on it, for set-up
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Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread-hpi.jpg  
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Old 04-12-2016, 04:01 PM   #2597
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Mine is bent.

Xray's email is [email protected]
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Old 04-12-2016, 04:13 PM   #2598
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars View Post
this got me thinking on my DE, to put either 1 or 2mm washer/spacer between the rear carrier and chassis. this will raise the carrier and then use a eccentric spacer to move the hinge pin down and counter the rise of the carrier. going to give it a try since i'm already using a centered eccentric spacer in rear carrier. i see in your case you are using 1deg down, not sure if a .5deg down would make up for even a 1mm shim. you may have to adjust front carrier to counter this and end up with something close to your current setting

as for ski plates not sure on the hole alignment on the XB4 vs the XB2
http://www.ebay.com/itm/68011-TBR-DS...wAAOSwBLlVTllp

http://tboneracing.net/68011-tbr-dsr...xb4-4wd-buggy/
Thank you very much, this is a good idea; I'll try shimming the rear holder up and compensate with the eccentric bushings. Hopefully I can get one more weekend out of my hanger before it gives up.

Anyone know if the XB4 uses the same bolt pattern in the back? Would really like to try one of those skid plates if possible.
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Old 04-12-2016, 04:51 PM   #2599
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Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
use a dremel with a cutting wheel to cut a small groove into the head without going to deep. then use a good flat head screw driver and take it out that way. you may also want to heat the screw up to make this easier as well.
He is talking about the screws in hex. Dremel won't work because head of screw is too deep
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Old 04-12-2016, 05:34 PM   #2600
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Does anyone know if the diff balls are actually 2.4 or are they 3/32 that xray rounded up?
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Old 04-12-2016, 06:01 PM   #2601
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Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
Does anyone know if the diff balls are actually 2.4 or are they 3/32 that xray rounded up?
My wild guess would be metric before SAE!
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Old 04-12-2016, 06:27 PM   #2602
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
Does anyone know if the diff balls are actually 2.4 or are they 3/32 that xray rounded up?
They're the same as every other brand car out there. (Losi, AE etc)
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Old 04-12-2016, 06:45 PM   #2603
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Impressive Craftsmanships, Very Happy with my XB2 & XB4...
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Old 04-12-2016, 09:23 PM   #2604
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
Nothing out yet. I think a better move would be two fold:

Make the hanger out of billet aluminium, and also reset the geometry to 3 degrees toe at centered offset. This would allow adjustment from 2 to 4, instead of making us start at 4.

Please email exotek at [email protected] and request it, as I have done.
Just want to keep this fresh for everyone.,
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Old 04-12-2016, 09:37 PM   #2605
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
Nothing out yet. I think a better move would be two fold:

Make the hanger out of billet aluminium, and also reset the geometry to 3 degrees toe at centered offset. This would allow adjustment from 2 to 4, instead of making us start at 4.

Please email exotek at [email protected] and request it, as I have done.
I don't think it's a molded or "hot" or "warm" forged aluminum part - it's machined and likely out of billet now. Perhaps you meant cold
forged, which would make it stronger for sure.
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Old 04-12-2016, 09:58 PM   #2606
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I don't think it's a molded or "hot" or "warm" forged aluminum part - it's machined and likely out of billet now. Perhaps you meant cold
forged, which would make it stronger for sure.
Look at the pics of the broken pieces. It's most definitely cast.



That is most definitely cast, then machined.
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Old 04-12-2016, 10:01 PM   #2607
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Old 04-12-2016, 10:02 PM   #2608
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Old 04-12-2016, 10:06 PM   #2609
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Old 04-12-2016, 10:17 PM   #2610
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I just can't tell from the pics - they aren't good enough on my end. My guess is an extrusion sliced and machined. That's how I would make the part but it really should be a bit beefier! When you lean the car over, it's obvious the lower outer area will drag pretty heavily on the ground.
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