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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 04-08-2016, 12:56 PM   #2506
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Ooops! My bad, it was xray onroad parts I ordered. No coffee this morning

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They don't list any xb2 parts on their webstore.
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Old 04-08-2016, 01:07 PM   #2507
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I have bought an assembled ball diff for my carpet car. took it apart and checked it and it is greased. it actually seems pretty smooth. are you guys just running it the way it comes from xray or do you suggest rebuilding it with higher quality grease.
Always a good idea to take it apart and reapply grease for peace of mind.
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Old 04-08-2016, 08:57 PM   #2508
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Socket you gave me some pointers on gearing and timing recently for the tekin gen 3. At 50 degrees timing with 34/75 for SRS/hobbytown the car is super fast and comes off the track at 130. My question is though would I be able to achieve the same gear ratio using a 69t spur and smaller pinion to cut down on rotational mass? Will I lose more top end?
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Old 04-08-2016, 09:21 PM   #2509
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Originally Posted by ogmudbum View Post
Socket you gave me some pointers on gearing and timing recently for the tekin gen 3. At 50 degrees timing with 34/75 for SRS/hobbytown the car is super fast and comes off the track at 130. My question is though would I be able to achieve the same gear ratio using a 69t spur and smaller pinion to cut down on rotational mass? Will I lose more top end?
The idea of going to a 69 tooth spur is less about rotational mass, and more about changing handling, as the 69 tooth spur moves the motor back. Most guys with the laydowns are running 72 or 75 spurs to take full advantage of the laydown setup.

That said, it would make a difference; but you know as well as I that moving the motor back at that track isn't going to be the best thing, as you'll end up giving up some steering for more rear bite.

I played around with the slot car spurs as pinion gears, and they work really well. Their service life is not that long though.

Are you using the slipper eliminator by exotek?
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Old 04-08-2016, 09:54 PM   #2510
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
The idea of going to a 69 tooth spur is less about rotational mass, and more about changing handling, as the 69 tooth spur moves the motor back. Most guys with the laydowns are running 72 or 75 spurs to take full advantage of the laydown setup.

That said, it would make a difference; but you know as well as I that moving the motor back at that track isn't going to be the best thing, as you'll end up giving up some steering for more rear bite.

I played around with the slot car spurs as pinion gears, and they work really well. Their service life is not that long though.

Are you using the slipper eliminator by exotek?
Yes I am, seems to get the job done well. I just ordered some kimbrough spurs for spares 3 for the price of one exotek. Thanks
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Old 04-08-2016, 10:00 PM   #2511
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I may be mistaken but did you have the exotek ti front axles on your car? If so how are they holding up?
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Old 04-08-2016, 10:02 PM   #2512
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I may be mistaken but did you have the exotek ti front axles on your car? If so how are they holding up?
Not mistaken. I have them. Holding up very very well. I'm impressed with the quality for how low cost they are.
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Old 04-08-2016, 10:06 PM   #2513
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Thats good, yes I thought $15 was cheap. Do you ever drive up here?
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Old 04-08-2016, 10:12 PM   #2514
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Thats good, yes I thought $15 was cheap. Do you ever drive up here?
I used to make the drive 2-3 times a week racing 17.5. I then got into 1/8th scale, and made the drive twice a month to fear farm. School got harder, so I have less and less time. I picked up the xb2 to race Tucson more.

That said, I'll be sanding and saucing tires tomorrow to make the trip sometime in the next couple weeks. I'll give you a heads up when
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Old 04-08-2016, 10:22 PM   #2515
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
I used to make the drive 2-3 times a week racing 17.5. I then got into 1/8th scale, and made the drive twice a month to fear farm. School got harder, so I have less and less time. I picked up the xb2 to race Tucson more.

That said, I'll be sanding and saucing tires tomorrow to make the trip sometime in the next couple weeks. I'll give you a heads up when
Sounds good man, thanks for the help!
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Old 04-09-2016, 12:48 AM   #2516
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@socket, shouldn't you be using 1.7mm total internally instead of 1.2mm. I believe it should be 1mm for the reduction in bearing size and .7mm to make up for the different top shaft, or is there something I'm missing and am way off base?
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Old 04-09-2016, 06:06 AM   #2517
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To all ce owners how much to convert to de with minimal parts like tranny case and water fall?
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Old 04-09-2016, 06:52 AM   #2518
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To all ce owners how much to convert to de with minimal parts like tranny case and water fall?
I haven't done the conversion; however IIRC someone said it was about $200 or so.
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Old 04-09-2016, 06:52 AM   #2519
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@socket, shouldn't you be using 1.7mm total internally instead of 1.2mm. I believe it should be 1mm for the reduction in bearing size and .7mm to make up for the different top shaft, or is there something I'm missing and am way off base?
I plan on pulling the top shaft, measuring my shim stack, and snapping some pics for you guys today...It's race day!

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Old 04-09-2016, 06:53 AM   #2520
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Sounds good man, thanks for the help!
You're welcome - I don't know everything, but I do try my best to help.
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