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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 04-04-2016, 06:26 PM   #2446
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Originally Posted by symmetricon View Post
A good bit actually. I bought both kits, the CE first. When the DE came out i only used the parts necessary to convert. I am now using kyosho springs and AE spring cups. Other than that , just different pistons, oils and I adjusted my camber link settings.
Do you have a current setup using the kyosho springs? Part number on spring cups?
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Old 04-04-2016, 06:39 PM   #2447
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Originally Posted by WillS View Post
For those wanting to run the Schelle or Avid Slipper assembly.

It goes:
  1. back bearing cover
  2. kit bearing
  3. B5m topshaft
  4. 0.7mm spacers
  5. front bearing cover
  6. 5x13x5 bearing (Link to the one I used)
  7. motor plate
  8. 0.4mm spacers
  9. avid/schelle assembly
  10. spring
  11. Spring cup
  12. nut
Are you using the 3x5 or 5x7 kyosho shims?
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Old 04-04-2016, 07:03 PM   #2448
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Originally Posted by English365 View Post
Are you using the 3x5 or 5x7 kyosho shims?
You'll need the 5mm shims. These are VERY common for clutch shimming on the 1/8th scale nitro world. Amain keeps a healthy stock.

Also, a little secret...the 22 SCT front axle package has a 5x6x3 shim that you can sand down and use.
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Old 04-04-2016, 07:24 PM   #2449
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WillS View Post
For those wanting to run the Schelle or Avid Slipper assembly.

It goes:
  1. back bearing cover
  2. kit bearing
  3. B5m topshaft
  4. 0.7mm spacers
  5. front bearing cover
  6. 5x13x5 bearing (Link to the one I used)
  7. motor plate
  8. 0.4mm spacers
  9. avid/schelle assembly
  10. spring
  11. Spring cup
  12. nut
CE, correct?
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Old 04-04-2016, 07:32 PM   #2450
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CE, correct?
No, this was on the DE.

However, it shouldn't be any different.
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Old 04-04-2016, 08:25 PM   #2451
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
You'll need the 5mm shims. These are VERY common for clutch shimming on the 1/8th scale nitro world. Amain keeps a healthy stock.

Also, a little secret...the 22 SCT front axle package has a 5x6x3 shim that you can sand down and use.
so 5x6 then? Any idea on a part number for the correct b5 top shaft?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
AE spring cups:

91310
Thanks! Any idea if the avid ones will work?
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Last edited by English365; 04-04-2016 at 08:44 PM.
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Old 04-04-2016, 08:34 PM   #2452
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AE spring cups:

91310
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Old 04-04-2016, 08:44 PM   #2453
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
AE spring cups:

91310
Thanks! Any idea if the mip full race top shaft will work? Part # 15080
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Old 04-04-2016, 09:04 PM   #2454
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so 5x6 then? Any idea on a part number for the correct b5 top shaft?



Thanks! Any idea if the avid ones will work?
They should yes
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Old 04-04-2016, 09:59 PM   #2455
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Originally Posted by English365 View Post
Thanks! Any idea if the mip full race top shaft will work? Part # 15080
This is the one I used.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...c91606/p404377

It needs to be the version 2 (3 gear one that uses the smaller bearing). So with that being said the MIP "Eco" should fit.
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Old 04-04-2016, 10:18 PM   #2456
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@socket, just to be clear, are you using 1.2mm of shims inside the transmission case in place of the .7 the or in addition to?
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Old 04-05-2016, 05:38 AM   #2457
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Originally Posted by English365 View Post
Do you have a current setup using the kyosho springs? Part number on spring cups?
Ill get a setup posted soon, I still have some tweaks to make and to decide on whicj, the ball diff or the gear diff.
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Old 04-05-2016, 05:58 AM   #2458
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Thanks! Any idea if the mip full race top shaft will work? Part # 15080
I'm not entirely sure. I didn't have one to try; I only went with the B5M V2.
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Old 04-05-2016, 06:02 AM   #2459
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@socket, just to be clear, are you using 1.2mm of shims inside the transmission case in place of the .7 the or in addition to?
I'm using more shims, because I'm using a thinner bearing.

Stock bearing is 6x13x5. 6 is the inner diameter, 13 is the outer diameter, and 5 is the width. You must change to a 5x13x5, which is a fairly rare bearing. However, the 5x13x4 is very much mass produced. This is why I needed considerably more shimming than WillS.

Here's a few links to some clutch shims I keep in my collection:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...bs67470/p28284

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...h-5905/p188793

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...-h-033/p202829
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Old 04-05-2016, 06:59 AM   #2460
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What shims is everyone using to keep the hingepis in place... Putting in an Amain order. Any other last minute tips for an order? Thx!
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