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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 03-27-2016, 06:55 PM   #2251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars View Post
seeing the track online only, it looks like hi-bite clay similar or better than SRS.
imo, CE would be way to go. if you race at loose to medium outdoor tracks more than indoor ....DE

Recommending a laydown car for OCRC is a bold move. You sure that's a good choice?

Personally? I'd run the dirt car there...But you asked the internet, and you'll get an answer that's worth what you paid; nothing.
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Old 03-27-2016, 07:13 PM   #2252
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars View Post
seeing the track online only, it looks like hi-bite clay similar or better than SRS.
imo, CE would be way to go. if you race at loose to medium outdoor tracks more than indoor ....DE
OCRC is far from high bite clay or even comparing it to SRS. The yokomo team drivers were using their dirt version there.
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Old 03-27-2016, 07:29 PM   #2253
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OCRC is medium traction clay typically and to this point you don't see fast guys on slicks.
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Old 03-27-2016, 07:44 PM   #2254
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Default Re: Indoor clay

I do see a few CE's always selling. Wonder why?
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Old 03-27-2016, 08:07 PM   #2255
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Lots of other tracks around SoCal are high bite clay. SCVRC is one. Primes are dope there.
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Old 03-27-2016, 09:31 PM   #2256
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My CE was garbage at ocrc. I used a ball diff. My CE was worlds better at LRH and SCVRC.

I have a DE waiting to be built. So far I've yet to meet another xb2 owner in SoCal.
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Old 03-27-2016, 09:55 PM   #2257
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Take this with a grain of salt, as I have just finished building my XB2 Carpet. I purchased it because I wanted to race on the carpet track in vegas. Secondly, I know the XB2 platform can be converted to DE spec. I purchased a ball diff so I can switch, and I'd probably grab a "stand up" style transmission case too. I don't mind purchasing the extra parts so I have a range of parts in between the CE and DE version. I like the idea of a platform, in which you have a full range of overall stiffness and hardness for the car. With the range of composites from medium to hard and CF, you can tune for any track condition.

As I mentioned I bought this car to run on a carpet off road track, I am moving to Costa Mesa on friday so I expect to be part of the OCRCArmy soon. So I will be running my CE here after Vegas. I will probably start by going to a stand up transmission and medium parts. CE comes with medium parts and hard. I will also switch to the ball diff. I've run gear diffs at OCRC before on other cars like the Durango and the ball diff was always better.
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Old 03-27-2016, 09:56 PM   #2258
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Owner of SCVRC is an XRAY guy. BTW. Eric. Solid dude
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Old 03-27-2016, 10:07 PM   #2259
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I don't race away from home much anymore but I'm in SoCal and I have xb2 2016s and 2 xb4 2016s. I'm trying to get the xb2s sorted out but the xb4s are pretty dialed. It's not easy to be the only one at the track with an xb2 but it'll be well worth it if I can get them figured out.
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Old 03-27-2016, 11:40 PM   #2260
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There's a guy running an xb2 ce at OCRC and I'm pretty sure he's looking to convert it to de. See if you can find him and talk to him before you buy the car.

He wears an Amain hat. Just ask around, or ask Nick Black at the counter. People will help you find him. Talk to him about what he thinks. He has his ce really nicely dialed for OCRC, but I thought he told me that he was going to try the de gearbox.
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Old 03-28-2016, 04:53 AM   #2261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gticlay View Post
Any idea if they were close to stock setup or ?
Not too sure on complete setup. I do know that one of the cars were using the stock pistons provided in the kit.
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Old 03-28-2016, 05:39 AM   #2262
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I have both the CE and DE and vastly prefer the DE on clay... that said, my buddy still runs a CE and i decided to try some springs on his car. I put gold kyosho front on and pink kyosho rears on and the car was much much better than it was with stock springs.
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Old 03-28-2016, 06:30 AM   #2263
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Originally Posted by symmetricon View Post
I have both the CE and DE and vastly prefer the DE on clay... that said, my buddy still runs a CE and i decided to try some springs on his car. I put gold kyosho front on and pink kyosho rears on and the car was much much better than it was with stock springs.
Are they same size kyosho spring with changing spring retainer? I thought the kyosho spring is bigger than xray.
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Old 03-28-2016, 07:06 AM   #2264
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Originally Posted by raved007 View Post
Are they same size kyosho spring with changing spring retainer? I thought the kyosho spring is bigger than xray.
I used kyosho gold all around. With xray bottom spring cups. No problems. The springs felt similar to stock.
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Old 03-28-2016, 07:55 AM   #2265
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Hey All, I searched but didn't find much in the way of answers on Alum Servo Arms? What is everyone using? I prefer the clamping if possible so I'm thinking this unit should be perfect:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...819-bk/p292307

Seems to be exactly the same length as the stock plastic and very similar in shape.
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