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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 03-27-2016, 01:01 PM   #2236
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I bought a couple pairs of the Ti axles. Haven't installed them yet. I also picked up a couple of CF battery straps not realizing that if you want to be able to remove the strap & use the CF version it would be necessary to use the rear motor brace from the CE. I'm pretty sure that's what Xray calls it.
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Old 03-27-2016, 01:08 PM   #2237
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
Exotek ti front axles do not fit - btw.
A few bad axles went out sorry. Please email us thanks.
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Old 03-27-2016, 01:09 PM   #2238
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my stock DE car weighed at 1558 at the track yesterday. looking at various sites simple weight loss would come from:

- aluminum wheel nuts
- " " or nylon shock nuts
- " " or titanium screws

not finding any screw kits currently, would have to piece out a set.

car is too new, so there may not be the interest in lite aftermarket items yet
- titanium hinge pins
- upper shock mounts rather heavy, may be able to piece and part from other cars?
- front axles
- rear axle outdrive
- diff halves
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Old 03-27-2016, 01:27 PM   #2239
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Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars View Post
my stock DE car weighed at 1558 at the track yesterday. looking at various sites simple weight loss would come from:

- aluminum wheel nuts
- " " or nylon shock nuts
- " " or titanium screws

not finding any screw kits currently, would have to piece out a set.

car is too new, so there may not be the interest in lite aftermarket items yet
- titanium hinge pins
- upper shock mounts rather heavy, may be able to piece and part from other cars?
- front axles
- rear axle outdrive
- diff halves
Outdrives and hinge pins would not be substantial enough weight wise to warrant the large drop in durability versus the spring steel.

There are two Ti screw kits, the cheap protek kit which is chinese grade 2, or the Lunsford Ti kit which is a true USA made grade 5 kit.

The 1530-1560 range is the target for me, and this car fits nicely in it. I've had a B5M that weighed 1425, it handled horrible and I won't ever waste time and money to do that again.
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Old 03-27-2016, 01:27 PM   #2240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeR View Post
A few bad axles went out sorry. Please email us thanks.
Just fired off an email.
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Old 03-27-2016, 01:29 PM   #2241
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
The snap ring to remove the thrust is utterly stupid.

Off to amazon to buy snap ring pliers!
These are excellent for the snap ring.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Knipex-4811J...oAAOSwFqJWthVU
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Old 03-27-2016, 01:47 PM   #2242
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Originally Posted by timannnn6 View Post
These are excellent for the snap ring.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Knipex-4811J...oAAOSwFqJWthVU
Ordered, thanks!


Can someone measure the over all length of the rear shock shafts?
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Old 03-27-2016, 01:55 PM   #2243
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next time i go to tucson i will have to see what these look like

http://www.harborfreight.com/snap-ri...ads-60531.html

sears
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-combi...QM3Q&gclsrc=ds



and i think walmart sells snap ring pliers too
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Old 03-27-2016, 02:15 PM   #2244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
Outdrives and hinge pins would not be substantial enough weight wise to warrant the large drop in durability versus the spring steel.

There are two Ti screw kits, the cheap protek kit which is chinese grade 2, or the Lunsford Ti kit which is a true USA made grade 5 kit.

The 1530-1560 range is the target for me, and this car fits nicely in it. I've had a B5M that weighed 1425, it handled horrible and I won't ever waste time and money to do that again.
i agree, i don't want to run a sub-1500 freak, i would like to drop weight up top, so i can add it low. enabling me to option add brass nose and use various positional battery weights. first week i ran my DE i had the brass nose, i really loved the steering on the dirt track. but my 17.5 had issues when car went towards 1600g on technical. i went back to nylon nose and was pleased yesterday, but lost some steering

even if i got with some TI/alum screws, i will keep keep the bottom all steel and/or may go to brass in non-stress structural spots. something i did years ago on TC and 1/12 years ago on low traction conditions at various asphalt tracks and for balancing
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Old 03-27-2016, 02:46 PM   #2245
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Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars View Post
i agree, i don't want to run a sub-1500 freak, i would like to drop weight up top, so i can add it low. enabling me to option add brass nose and use various positional battery weights. first week i ran my DE i had the brass nose, i really loved the steering on the dirt track. but my 17.5 had issues when car went towards 1600g on technical. i went back to nylon nose and was pleased yesterday, but lost some steering

even if i got with some TI/alum screws, i will keep keep the bottom all steel and/or may go to brass in non-stress structural spots. something i did years ago on TC and 1/12 years ago on low traction conditions at various asphalt tracks and for balancing
Can you open your 2nd kit and measure the overall length of the rear shock shafts for me? Trying to see if B5M shafts will give me more droop.
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Old 03-27-2016, 03:24 PM   #2246
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How is the CE on med/high bite indoor clay such as OCRC? Does it drive simiar to a Yokomo? I'm new to the hobby and really enjoy my B5m lite (used), but would like to start a build with something new. Unsure of whether to pull he trigger on the DE or CE.
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Old 03-27-2016, 03:30 PM   #2247
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
Can you open your 2nd kit and measure the overall length of the rear shock shafts for me? Trying to see if B5M shafts will give me more droop.
Wouldn't longer shock shafts also have issues in uptravel.. Piston hitting the top of the shock..
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Old 03-27-2016, 03:33 PM   #2248
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Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
Wouldn't longer shock shafts also have issues in uptravel.. Piston hitting the top of the shock..
Yes, this is fixed with shims on the outside of the shock body like the OEM setup calls for.

I do not run those, btw. Right now I'm at 95mm overall shock length, and would love to get to 98mm like what I ran on the b5m.
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Old 03-27-2016, 04:55 PM   #2249
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Can you open your 2nd kit and measure the overall length of the rear shock shafts for me? Trying to see if B5M shafts will give me more droop.
showing rear shaft at 48.88 mm on my calibers and front at 43.88
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Old 03-27-2016, 05:08 PM   #2250
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Originally Posted by JAE View Post
How is the CE on med/high bite indoor clay such as OCRC? Does it drive simiar to a Yokomo? I'm new to the hobby and really enjoy my B5m lite (used), but would like to start a build with something new. Unsure of whether to pull he trigger on the DE or CE.
seeing the track online only, it looks like hi-bite clay similar or better than SRS.
imo, CE would be way to go. if you race at loose to medium outdoor tracks more than indoor ....DE
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