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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 03-26-2016, 05:44 PM   #2221
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I couldn't help myself. Its close. You could definitely use the associated parts on the front. I was too lazy to measure the rear. The AE front links [steering and camber] are 70-71mm and the XRays are 71-72. Who's going try it out first? I know Socket wants to....

***disregard those #'s.
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Old 03-26-2016, 07:42 PM   #2222
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.....so the B5M turnbuckles without ball cups are 2.00 inch (50.8mm) and the Xrays are 55mm & 50mm. It might work.
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Old 03-26-2016, 08:41 PM   #2223
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Some more setup information from today.

I ran 17.5 today against my better judgement, but it was still a good call because I still needed to change some things.

I'm at:

1.6's all the way around. No limiters under the shocks both front and rear. front camber link is moved out 1 hole both inside and outside. 3 degrees rear toe, 2 degrees anti squat. Rear AE whites, front AE grays. Losi 35 front, Losi 30 rear. No battery strap, battery taped in. Layed the rear shocks down on the top, and went to inside hole on the rear.

Here's the big change: The more droop I ran on the rear, the better it got for forward and side bite, as well as jumping. I personally felt the car didn't jump very well stock, stiffer springs helped. However, I'm at 94mm eyelet to eyelet on the rear, and feel anymore may make the dog bone pop out. I'd love to be able to go 2-3 more mm longer in the back, but worry about the dog bones.

Next change is to soften the front spring back to a white. This is on a hard packed outdoor clay track, if wet will have medium bite, if dry will be low bite. I ran M4 holeshots rear and m3 holeshots front.

edit: 23mm ride height front and rear. Car has a slight push finally that I should be able to tune out.
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Old 03-26-2016, 09:59 PM   #2224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
I just had a fantastic idea. Has anybody considered swapping the odd sized ballstuds to AE B5 series? I did have a ball cup pop off my XB2 after taking a hit from another racer. Maybe somebody less lazy than myself can measure the links center to center to see if they are close to the same size as the B5M or 22 links. If we have an over achiever with access to the parts, you could even measure the rods without ends....although I'd imagine that the ends are different lengths...I dunno. I'm sure you get what the rock is cooking.
I used the AE b5m balls and cups on my yokomo. The yokomo ball cups suck! AE has strong ball cups. I know they are not cups but eyelets! So I will use them again!
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Old 03-27-2016, 09:09 AM   #2225
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Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
.....so the B5M turnbuckles without ball cups are 2.00 inch (50.8mm) and the Xrays are 55mm & 50mm. It might work.
I think you need to replace the ballcup you had pop off.

I have augered this car into some HORRIBLE crashes, and haven't broken it yet. I'm blown away by how durable the dirt edition is.
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Old 03-27-2016, 09:42 AM   #2226
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I'm not sure why you'd want to change out the stock ball studs and ball cups, they've worked great for years on the XB4 and touring cars. Also, a top tip, if you're still adamant about switching, measure the difference in height of the other ball studs compared to the stock ball studs as the pivot point will be different so you'll have to compensate with shims to get the same geometry.
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Old 03-27-2016, 10:24 AM   #2227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
I think you need to replace the ballcup you had pop off.

I have augered this car into some HORRIBLE crashes, and haven't broken it yet. I'm blown away by how durable the dirt edition is.
My front bulkhead broke after a couple of race nights and no major crashes but after looking at it very carefully it may be because the hinge pin partially slid out. There is definitely an issue where the some of the hinge pin retainer screw holes are not located in the right spot on the front arms or the size of the screws that hold the pins in on the arms is off. Perhaps I should try somebody elses retaining screws just for the heck of it. Regardless, I had to race a B5M this week because I could get a bulkhead from my local Xray dealer [me]. When [I] my local dealer called the distributor they said that those wont be in until their next shipment arrives next week sometime.

I'm on the fence about swapping the ball cups. Its a super pet peeve but I hate the fact that I have to turn the turnbuckles in opposite directions on each side of the car. Regardless of the fact it may have been a fluke thing, I havent had a ball cup pop off in a couple years, since I switched over to a B5M from an RB6.

Don't get me wrong. I consider these slight annoyances nothing more than growing pains and I'm going to give the Xray a fair shot. So far its been bittersweet.
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Old 03-27-2016, 10:26 AM   #2228
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The snap ring to remove the thrust is utterly stupid.

Off to amazon to buy snap ring pliers!
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Old 03-27-2016, 10:49 AM   #2229
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Hi
I am new to 2wd. I've always raced 4wd. I've got my xb2 built now, just need to sort the front tyres and this is where I am looking for some advice.
I race indoors on a track which is a mix of carpet and polished floor. On my xb4 I run yellow pin pins front with medium foams all round.
I am going to run yellow mini pins on the rear but what is recommend for the front, and do I cut the front rim? And do I run an insert?
Thanks
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Old 03-27-2016, 11:04 AM   #2230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UKracer1 View Post
Hi
I am new to 2wd. I've always raced 4wd. I've got my xb2 built now, just need to sort the front tyres and this is where I am looking for some advice.
I race indoors on a track which is a mix of carpet and polished floor. On my xb4 I run yellow pin pins front with medium foams all round.
I am going to run yellow mini pins on the rear but what is recommend for the front, and do I cut the front rim? And do I run an insert?
Thanks
You can't choose tires for a track over the internet. Your best bet is to ask a local racer with a 2wd buggy.
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Old 03-27-2016, 11:05 AM   #2231
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BTW, just as I suspected - completely dry thrust assembly. Thanks Xray!
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Old 03-27-2016, 12:45 PM   #2232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
BTW, just as I suspected - completely dry thrust assembly. Thanks Xray!
I don't know where I was reading but it talked about taking the ball diff apart and re-lubbing the trust bearing and the balls. You need to do that with any other car you build, so it wasn't anything big. Just cause it's pre build doesn't mean it's ready to use.
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Old 03-27-2016, 12:47 PM   #2233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cclifton View Post
I don't know where I was reading but it talked about taking the ball diff apart and re-lubbing the trust bearing and the balls. You need to do that with any other car you build, so it wasn't anything big. Just cause it's pre build doesn't mean it's ready to use.
Why would they lube the rings and balls, but not the thrust? I'm aure there's great reason.
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Old 03-27-2016, 01:29 PM   #2234
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just took my rear diff out and apart on my DE, thrust assembly had standard black grease on mine

appears Olga Kollorova hooked me up

Last edited by fast-ho-cars; 03-27-2016 at 01:57 PM.
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Old 03-27-2016, 01:34 PM   #2235
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Exotek ti front axles do not fit - btw.
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