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Old 12-26-2016, 07:51 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 03-19-2016, 09:42 AM   #2056
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Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
I have that same spring chart. Thanks for re-posting Joe. I think that I've going to try 3 dot rears and 2 and 3 dot fronts. I'm also going to order some shock pistons from Schelle. There is no amount of loctite that's going to hold my hinge pins in. On a separate note, the shocks don't leak but I'd still like to try Kyosho or AE XRings. Anybody do that yet?
I have some AE xrings sitting here and my kit should be here today. I have a lot of homework I need to do, though. Trying my hardest to not try and build it. Hopefully my B5M top shaft and Avid slipper make it soon.

What makes you not want to just put the same spring and oil package you ran on your B5M as a starting point? This is the way I'm leaning right now.
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Old 03-19-2016, 05:29 PM   #2057
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Originally Posted by rekim View Post
i have been running my buggy for a couple of months with no issues on the hinge pin popping out and i left it stock and it looks the same as in the pictures.

has anyone had one pop out yet or just assuming it will because of how it looks?

EDIT: not trying to sound like a fanboy (it seems like i am, maybe i am a little), i am asking as a serious question
Read my above post. It's happened!!!
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Old 03-19-2016, 05:33 PM   #2058
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suby723 View Post
The hinge pin issue can be solved with one simple solution.. More loctite. Lmao
If we are ever at the same race..... I OWE YOU A SODA OR ADULT BEVERAGE. I needed that laugh
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Old 03-19-2016, 05:42 PM   #2059
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E clips. Really?
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Old 03-19-2016, 06:26 PM   #2060
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Originally Posted by xrayracer1 View Post
What battery strap are you using?
What' the shelf over your wires behind the servo?

Thanks in advance

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Old 03-19-2016, 07:51 PM   #2061
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine View Post
What' the shelf over your wires behind the servo?

Thanks in advance

Dave
Dave he said it's a piece of lexan painted black to hide the wires.

4 degrees toe stock is a little overboard imo. I'll start with 3.0.
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Old 03-19-2016, 09:04 PM   #2062
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It was great news first time i run my DE with Nate Jaskot set up except F/R spring very consistent the best 2WD buggy i drove so far. I try losi, b5m & Kyosho but this kit is compatible with my driving style very easssyyyyy to drive so far.
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Old 03-20-2016, 01:04 AM   #2063
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Default Rebound setting on emulsion shocks??

Who has been able to follow the instructions on setting 50% rebound??With these shocks. With out having hydro lock??
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Old 03-20-2016, 02:53 AM   #2064
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Originally Posted by jake alton View Post
Who has been able to follow the instructions on setting 50% rebound??With these shocks. With out having hydro lock??
I've never built shocks with rebound. Especially when not at the track, and any change in temp can cause the air within the shock to either build pressure or lose pressure.

I build my shocks dead, they're a lot more consistent that way.

I also built my car with 1 degree anti squat and 3 degrees of toe. The 4 and 2 are much odder than I'm used to seeing.

This car is VERY soft out of the box as well.
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Old 03-20-2016, 07:49 AM   #2065
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
On a separate note, the shocks don't leak but I'd still like to try Kyosho or AE XRings. Anybody do that yet?
The X-Ray o-rings have a larger OD, so if you use the x-rings the oil will go around the outside of them and out through the bottom!
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Old 03-20-2016, 09:08 AM   #2066
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To clarify my question about rebound and emulsion shocks is it actually possible? Due to the elimination of the bladder and the bleeding of the shock. The bladder is what would compensate for rebound. So if I'm missing how to set the rebound on these shocks, if it is possible. Some one pleases enlighten me!! Thanks!! Oh yeah. I too can only get zero rebound when building these shocks!! Other wise following the xray instructions. They don't compress all the way.
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Old 03-20-2016, 09:17 AM   #2067
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Default Front one dot spring rating?

Any one know the front stock spring rating is? So far the rear one dot is 2.00 lbs. on the spring chart already provided. If the front springs are 3.2 to 3.5 lbs. . Then the stock springs are in line with most all popular manufacture set ups.
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Old 03-20-2016, 10:02 AM   #2068
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Originally Posted by jake alton View Post
Any one know the front stock spring rating is? So far the rear one dot is 2.00 lbs. on the spring chart already provided. If the front springs are 3.2 to 3.5 lbs. . Then the stock springs are in line with most all popular manufacture set ups.
I haven't been able to find the spring rate for the front.
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Old 03-20-2016, 10:06 AM   #2069
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Teaser...

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Old 03-20-2016, 10:45 AM   #2070
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Now we need to figure out a fan
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