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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 03-18-2016, 08:50 PM   #2041
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raved007 View Post
Just finished my Dirt Version.
Which servo is that?
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Old 03-18-2016, 08:59 PM   #2042
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Too many people bench race rather than test on the track. 48P spurs vs 64P and 69 vs 72. No you can't hit the exact same FDR when comparing them but a different feel is indeed felt. Take the info and try for yourself. What works for one may not work for the other. Sharing what's been working with success is always questioned on the internet.

Here's another observation that I've seen happen quite a few times during testing this week.....the hinge pin screw is a joke and I Dont see how this wasn't caught before production. Car works quite well though. I'd love to see people working better together instead if always challenging someone else's findings.......
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Old 03-18-2016, 09:01 PM   #2043
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
Which servo is that?
Blue Bird BLS-A910
SPECIFICATION
Torque At 4.8V 10.9 kg-cm / 151.4 oz-in
Torque At 6.0V 13.6 kg-cm / 188.9 oz-in
Torque At 7.4V 16.4 kg-cm / 227.8 oz-in
Speed At 4.8V 0.080 sec / 60°
Speed At 6.0V 0.064 sec / 60°
Speed At 7.4V 0.052 sec / 60°
Idle Current 4 mAh @ 4.8~7.4V Stopped
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Old 03-18-2016, 09:04 PM   #2044
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
Too many people bench race rather than test on the track. 48P spurs vs 64P and 69 vs 72. No you can't hit the exact same FDR when comparing them but a different feel is indeed felt. Take the info and try for yourself. What works for one may not work for the other. Sharing what's been working with success is always questioned on the internet.

Here's another observation that I've seen happen quite a few times during testing this week.....the hinge pin screw is a joke and I Dont see how this wasn't caught before production. Car works quite well though. I'd love to see people working better together instead if always challenging someone else's findings.......
You can put flat washer 'till catch the hinge pin.
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Old 03-18-2016, 11:25 PM   #2045
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xrayracer1 View Post
Same here. I had to add washers as well.....
Wow, i discovered this a week ago when i was building mine. Pin just went past the screw. I emailed xray customer service twice, still no response.
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Old 03-18-2016, 11:28 PM   #2046
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Quote:
Originally Posted by giantdefy View Post
Wow, i discovered this a week ago when i was building mine. Pin just went past the screw. I emailed xray customer service twice, still no response.
Perhaps if they get a few more emails from other customers about this they might do something about it.
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Old 03-18-2016, 11:56 PM   #2047
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I raced my car tonight and its getting better the more I drive it. I'm not sure that its actually any better than "old faithful" my B5M but I was very consistent tonight. I hit a lapper in my first qualifier (which caused a ball cup to pop off) and got railed out in the second so I ended up BQ. I put a lap on second place in the B Main and ended up finishing up a couple of spots in the A. We didn't have sportsman or expert tonight so I had to race with a few guys much faster. I still did very well. The Xray without a doubt is competitive. I think that I'm going to buy 1.6 x 2 hole shock pistons and maybe go up one more step on the front springs. I ended up with pink Kyosho fronts and red Kyosho rears. It was ok for night racing but it would probably be too soft on a warm day. The only thing that bothered me is popping off the ballcup. That would not happen with a B5M hard crash or not. As an FYI to everybody, I had to use a small washer to keep the hinge pin in on the right front arm. I'm going to call RC America nad whine about it.

Anyway, just to recap, the XB2 is a good car out of the box and should not require hardly anything additional to get it race ready. If you plan to run stock you might need springs and a slipper eliminator. Its good enough that I could throw it down and run just as well as I would with my well set up and well maintained B5M. I hope that I can get just a little more out of it. If you consider the quality of the kit and the fact that its pretty much ready to race the way it comes I would not hesitate to recommend it to somebody.
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Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread-p1040986.jpg   Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread-p1040988.jpg  
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Old 03-19-2016, 12:24 AM   #2048
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xrayracer1 View Post
Perhaps if they get a few more emails from other customers about this they might do something about it.
We already put a washer on to prevent it from happening again. I just remember what we went through with the XB42015 and the rear toe issue This is nothing in comparison to that.
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Old 03-19-2016, 12:32 AM   #2049
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Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
We already put a washer on to prevent it from happening again. I just remember what we went through with the XB42015 and the rear toe issue This is nothing in comparison to that.
I still run the first gen XB4 so im not aware of this. But you would think that they would have picked up on this with the hinge pin screws before they went into production so we wouldn't have to do these mods.

I find it a little frustrating.
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Old 03-19-2016, 12:44 AM   #2050
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xrayracer1 View Post
I still run the first gen XB4 so im not aware of this. But you would think that they would have picked up on this with the hinge pin screws before they went into production so we wouldn't have to do these mods.

I find it a little frustrating.
Every car has had some sort of issue upon release.....and while it's frustrating to us (the customer) it's how it's handled once pointed out.
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Old 03-19-2016, 01:01 AM   #2051
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Every product has something. The only way to eliminate all of the issues is with extensive testing. The problem with consumer goods is that they need to get to market as fast as possible, which puts a practical limit on how much testing and design cycles a product can have before it is released....eventually they need to start making money!

I agree that the way Xray responds is what will matter the most.
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Old 03-19-2016, 04:20 AM   #2052
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i have been running my buggy for a couple of months with no issues on the hinge pin popping out and i left it stock and it looks the same as in the pictures.

has anyone had one pop out yet or just assuming it will because of how it looks?

EDIT: not trying to sound like a fanboy (it seems like i am, maybe i am a little), i am asking as a serious question
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Old 03-19-2016, 06:31 AM   #2053
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http://site.petitrc.com/reglages/BuggyBigBoreSpring.pdf
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Old 03-19-2016, 07:07 AM   #2054
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The hinge pin issue can be solved with one simple solution.. More loctite. Lmao
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Old 03-19-2016, 08:29 AM   #2055
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I have that same spring chart. Thanks for re-posting Joe. I think that I've going to try 3 dot rears and 2 and 3 dot fronts. I'm also going to order some shock pistons from Schelle. There is no amount of loctite that's going to hold my hinge pins in. On a separate note, the shocks don't leak but I'd still like to try Kyosho or AE XRings. Anybody do that yet?
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