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Old 12-26-2016, 07:51 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 03-12-2016, 08:24 AM   #1891
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mi4cxl View Post
You need to loctite the slipper pads. This will be explained in manual revision v45....

All joking aside there is nothing wrong with the standard slipper at all. Probably the best out the box slipper there is.
where do i find this v45
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Old 03-12-2016, 08:26 AM   #1892
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Insure 2nd middle slipper plate is aligned on the bottom plate and insure the top 2 pads fit into the spur gear octagon.
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Old 03-12-2016, 09:28 AM   #1893
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i do not see any issue with the slipper spring on my DE, and why the 3 slipper pads would need to be glued, they are adequately retained by the spur gear
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Old 03-12-2016, 09:35 AM   #1894
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I understand you guy's I built this system from the 1st car to this one... I have every xb car made link me this V 45 ... google shows our post ....
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Old 03-12-2016, 10:25 AM   #1895
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i pulled my spring off my xb4 2wd and it's night n day spring rate
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Old 03-12-2016, 11:59 AM   #1896
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WesRaven View Post
I started assembling my kit, and so far it has been a pleasant experience except one thing, and I'm curious if others have had the same issue; The center pin in the tranny that goes through the idler gear was incredibly tight going through the bearings. Even after oiling and polishing the pin I effectively had to press the bearings on. It was a bit difficult to align with it being this tight, but I was able to get it assembled eventually. Anyone else experience this?

One other question; Does the Carpet and Dirt Edition share the same screws? I was looking for a titanium screw kit, but only found one for the Carpet Edition.
My bearing was tight also when I built my XB2 dirt edition. When I pressed it in and I spun the gear it was smooth so I didn't worry about it.
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Old 03-12-2016, 12:13 PM   #1897
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English humour is lost on some.
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Old 03-12-2016, 12:37 PM   #1898
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Any body convert there ce to dirt yet? just wondering cost$$$
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Old 03-12-2016, 01:00 PM   #1899
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Troy Mckune View Post
I am really surprised you are having slipper issues. I have ran the B5M 2 pad, VTS, and Yokomo 2 pad on very high bite carpet. The Xray 3 pad is the best slipper I have ever run on high bite carpet. Just set it and forget it. It stays completely consistent through the run and has not ever overheated.

As far as 1 dot springs they are very soft but create a very forgiving great handling carpet car. I have also run the 2 dot front and rear, which is pretty good but makes the car a bit more edgy and less forgiving of miss landing. Tonight I tried Yatabe green rears and red fronts with very good success, just to try something different.


Bent, we have found the only thing that we are having trouble with is the front shock shafts. Any hard wreck to the front they will break right where the threads start. It is really weird to not break any other part but the shock shaft on a bad hit. Seems to be the only part that any one I race with breaks. Also the gear diff out drives wear a bit faster than they should.
Glad to hear you also like the yatabe springs. I run them on both my Xray cars. Try orange rears also. My lap times went down about a tenth or so with the orange rears and I could push the car even harder.
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Old 03-12-2016, 01:03 PM   #1900
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Quote:
Originally Posted by advpball View Post
Any body convert there ce to dirt yet? just wondering cost$$$
when the dirt car came in I asked RCA if they had the parts to convert and was told no
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Old 03-12-2016, 01:04 PM   #1901
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mi4cxl View Post
English humour is lost on some.
Lmao i understood that. Revisions on the entire car using loctite or its all going to break in pieces.
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Old 03-12-2016, 03:12 PM   #1902
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My dirt car is almost done, just need to build the shocks and it will be finished. Another outstanding XRAY build
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Old 03-12-2016, 03:24 PM   #1903
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I'm about to take the plunge on the CE edition, and I'll probably pick up a few dirt options. I'm actually planning to race this car on High traction Clay (Pro Line Prime Slicks) and Carpet.

I'll probably do a bit of stock and mod, what do you stock guys do for spur gears? Is exotek direct spur the only way to go to a smaller spur for stock? Also I'd like to hear some recomended stock gearing. Thanks in advance!

Also, recomended hop ups. Will probably order this weekend!

Cheers all!

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Old 03-12-2016, 03:48 PM   #1904
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a couple of build tips after completing my DE. Prethread the shockcap bleed holes prior to installation. Makes it easier to do a good shock build. Also prethread the shock towers as it was annoying to do it with the stand off when installing them initially. Check the shock pistons to ensure free movement in the shock body. All of mine needed some attention to get them smooth. The wing isn't marked with dot to make the hole when mounting the wing. On the rear hubs I did put a shim between the bearing the hex on both sides to take out some slop. Would have been cool to include all the carbon fiber ackerman plates. Excellent plastic used throughout the car. Very precise assembly of the entire car. Really easy to build and went together way faster than normal, for me.
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Old 03-12-2016, 07:06 PM   #1905
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Quote:
Originally Posted by todb View Post
a couple of build tips after completing my DE. Prethread the shockcap bleed holes prior to installation. Makes it easier to do a good shock build. Also prethread the shock towers as it was annoying to do it with the stand off when installing them initially. Check the shock pistons to ensure free movement in the shock body. All of mine needed some attention to get them smooth. The wing isn't marked with dot to make the hole when mounting the wing. On the rear hubs I did put a shim between the bearing the hex on both sides to take out some slop. Would have been cool to include all the carbon fiber ackerman plates. Excellent plastic used throughout the car. Very precise assembly of the entire car. Really easy to build and went together way faster than normal, for me.
Lmk how you're slipper works
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