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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 03-11-2016, 10:13 AM   #1876
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BRSracing View Post
gearing for 17.5? i bought a 75 spur to run in it.
Just based on what most people run with a 69 spur on other cars....just add 2-3 teeth on the pinion. From what I've heard you can fit a 36 with the 75 spur. Try 34-36. The internal ratio is pretty much the same as a B5M I think.
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Old 03-11-2016, 10:17 AM   #1877
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I have a question for dirt version which include differential gear or just ball differential my kit already is on the way it might be need to order ball differential for spare parts.
Ball diff all this diff ring and balls is overboard when I ran touring car Paul would wetsand his stock rings he didn't have extra balls n rings and he is a Factory Team driver run the car check the diff whenever U want I have 2 ball diffs n my xb4 for 6 months now car drives fine... my 2 cent's
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Old 03-11-2016, 10:32 AM   #1878
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I pulled apart an xb2 ball diff just to see it and holy cow the rings are thick. I'm pretty sure that the outdrives will wear faster than the diff itself. In my Associated cars I run tungsten balls and ceramic caged thrust bearings and I have a diff in a B5M that is over a year old....I just recently replaced the outdrives and regreased it, didn't replace anything. I'm going to go out on a limb and say that almost all diff failures are due to the thrust bearing failing. Its interesting that XRay uses a caged thrust. If you look at it from a quality perspective the cost of an xray diff is pretty close to that of an associated or kyosho if you are prone to upgrading the diff internals. Xray is top quality. That being said, its still hard to justify the cost of the parts. The kits are reasonable, especially if you consider that they need very little in terms of upgrades. If you buy an RB6 you you have to spend a mandatory $100 on stuff.
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Old 03-11-2016, 10:34 AM   #1879
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I wouldnt worry about the diff honestly, I mean my B5M diff is a year old and its the original diff that I built with the car. Make sure its lubed and slowly bring up the tightness and break it in thoroughly and it will last just fine.
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Old 03-11-2016, 10:55 AM   #1880
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Ball diff all this diff ring and balls is overboard when I ran touring car Paul would wetsand his stock rings he didn't have extra balls n rings and he is a Factory Team driver run the car check the diff whenever U want I have 2 ball diffs n my xb4 for 6 months now car drives fine... my 2 cent's
Thanks Man. So no need ball diff. spare parts
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Old 03-11-2016, 11:03 AM   #1881
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Excited to get started on my XB2 build... Just going through Amain looking at spares.. and while most spares seem reasonable, holyCRAP Xray, you can't charge $60 for a pair of diff outdrives. Here's hoping that MIP comes out with a kit.
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Old 03-11-2016, 11:42 AM   #1882
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whole diff complete and assembled is at $72

a pair of outdrives $32....i round price up
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...324960/p477742

when i ordered my 2 kits, i had to call back RCA realizing i needed at least a smaller 75T spur. i asked about 69-72, and in the conversation, it was something they are working on and missed, not considering the 17.5 class
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Old 03-11-2016, 11:43 AM   #1883
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http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...325010/p477745
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Old 03-11-2016, 12:35 PM   #1884
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yeah my bad, on part i linked was for gear diff, whole ball diff is the best deal and way to go...imo
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Old 03-11-2016, 12:42 PM   #1885
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I started assembling my kit, and so far it has been a pleasant experience except one thing, and I'm curious if others have had the same issue; The center pin in the tranny that goes through the idler gear was incredibly tight going through the bearings. Even after oiling and polishing the pin I effectively had to press the bearings on. It was a bit difficult to align with it being this tight, but I was able to get it assembled eventually. Anyone else experience this?

One other question; Does the Carpet and Dirt Edition share the same screws? I was looking for a titanium screw kit, but only found one for the Carpet Edition.
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Old 03-11-2016, 12:45 PM   #1886
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Originally Posted by WesRaven View Post
I started assembling my kit, and so far it has been a pleasant experience except one thing, and I'm curious if others have had the same issue; The center pin in the tranny that goes through the idler gear was incredibly tight going through the bearings. Even after oiling and polishing the pin I effectively had to press the bearings on. It was a bit difficult to align with it being this tight, but I was able to get it assembled eventually. Anyone else experience this?

One other question; Does the Carpet and Dirt Edition share the same screws? I was looking for a titanium screw kit, but only found one for the Carpet Edition.
Screws are the same except the gear box screws... and shock tower screws
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Old 03-11-2016, 12:48 PM   #1887
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Screws are the same except the gear box screws... and shock tower screws
Thank you. I'll just wait on a DE set then, or size up my own.
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Old 03-11-2016, 11:37 PM   #1888
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well when i had my carpet car I worried about the slipper pads ... The slipper is flawed the spring is too soft I can collapse it with my fingers I have a xb4 -14 set the slipper once have haven't touched it to this day! my xb-4 2wd didn't slip... I could not get this car set at ALL I even used an AE spur and pads NO LUCK >>>packed up and left "1st time I ever done that 20 yrs of racing" ... spring's are too soft Run AE yellow... I can't run this car at all now I'll see what they say monday .... if u noticed all carpet cars run a eliminator so,problem hidden .ugh
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Old 03-12-2016, 02:35 AM   #1889
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well when i had my carpet car I worried about the slipper pads ... The slipper is flawed the spring is too soft I can collapse it with my fingers I have a xb4 -14 set the slipper once have haven't touched it to this day! my xb-4 2wd didn't slip... I could not get this car set at ALL I even used an AE spur and pads NO LUCK >>>packed up and left "1st time I ever done that 20 yrs of racing" ... spring's are too soft Run AE yellow... I can't run this car at all now I'll see what they say monday .... if u noticed all carpet cars run a eliminator so,problem hidden .ugh
I am really surprised you are having slipper issues. I have ran the B5M 2 pad, VTS, and Yokomo 2 pad on very high bite carpet. The Xray 3 pad is the best slipper I have ever run on high bite carpet. Just set it and forget it. It stays completely consistent through the run and has not ever overheated.

As far as 1 dot springs they are very soft but create a very forgiving great handling carpet car. I have also run the 2 dot front and rear, which is pretty good but makes the car a bit more edgy and less forgiving of miss landing. Tonight I tried Yatabe green rears and red fronts with very good success, just to try something different.


Bent, we have found the only thing that we are having trouble with is the front shock shafts. Any hard wreck to the front they will break right where the threads start. It is really weird to not break any other part but the shock shaft on a bad hit. Seems to be the only part that any one I race with breaks. Also the gear diff out drives wear a bit faster than they should.
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Old 03-12-2016, 04:59 AM   #1890
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well when i had my carpet car I worried about the slipper pads ... The slipper is flawed the spring is too soft I can collapse it with my fingers I have a xb4 -14 set the slipper once have haven't touched it to this day! my xb-4 2wd didn't slip... I could not get this car set at ALL I even used an AE spur and pads NO LUCK >>>packed up and left "1st time I ever done that 20 yrs of racing" ... spring's are too soft Run AE yellow... I can't run this car at all now I'll see what they say monday .... if u noticed all carpet cars run a eliminator so,problem hidden .ugh
You need to loctite the slipper pads. This will be explained in manual revision v45....

All joking aside there is nothing wrong with the standard slipper at all. Probably the best out the box slipper there is.
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